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Generation 3 Pajero NM - NP Models 2000 - 2006

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Old 2 Weeks Ago
FarawayCampers FarawayCampers is offline
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Question Suspension - help!

Hey all,


If someone can help that would be greatly appreciated...


I purchased and got installed a kit that was meant to be good - so I thought, but my car drives like crap now!


To set the scene...


NP Pajero Exceed 2004, Diesel, Bullbar (ARB), winch, synthetic rope, fridge in back and that is it... Running 32" BFG KO2 tyres.


I got a full set of new tyres installed 2 weeks ago, while in there they replaced the shocks / springs for me too as they were needing it.


My ride immediately went from smooth and comfy to harsh and sports like. BUT when there were any bumps in the road the car would kind of bump all around, kinda like an empty truck.


I went on a sealed road, the car was bouncing so much at 110kmh that we started to feel car sick.




Springs: KING SPRINGS - rear = KCRR-35 / front = KCFR-34
Shocks: KONI - rear & front = 82 series



Now, it seems like the Koni shocks should be a better model, it's a bit late now - wish I knew that earlier. It also seems like the springs should have been the heavy duty models - again, wish I knew this. I had no way of knowing what springs and shocks they were as they were second hand, taken off a wrecked paj... All I knew was they were Koni shocks and King springs off a paj with a bull bar and winch like mine and had only done 15kkm since install.



Sooooo...



The people who did the install - were not very good. I am thinking they may have wound up the shocks too high for rebound. Any thoughts on this?


They also told me that they set the rear shocks in the middle, why? They just did.




Has anyone got advice from experience as to what I should do. I am thinking of pulling the front struts, trying to borrow a compressor and pulling apart to re-adjust the shocks.


Other than this, as the height is ok with the springs, I am thinking of keeping them on as they would offer more flex than H-duty ones, although may sag more.


Thoughts / comments / helpful opinions / solutions please?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Both King springs and Koni struts and shockers are quality components so I doubt if this is the problem.

The Gen 3/4 independent suspension is very sensitive to correct 4 wheel-wheel alignment, has this been done and is it within all specifications? You will need to look at the wheel alignment print outs and check these against the service manual specifications.

Tyre's, what pressure are the new BFG's inflated to? The tyre's are the first "shock absorber" in the suspension, if these are too high then it can greatly effect the ride quality. Unlikely to be too low as you would see this.

What are the ride heights, measure from the centre of the wheel hub in vertical line up to the underside of the wheel arch. Do this on all 4 wheels when the car is parked on flat level ground.

I would check all of the above before removing the struts and shockers so you can adjust the rebound. I doubt if the people that fitted the secondhand suspension actually disassembled the front struts and adjusted the rebound, rear shocked maybe.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
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Sian$monster Sian$monster is offline
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I have a an NM Paj, I researched a fair bit and got mixed responses for this problem and found the Lovells springs to be the best riding springs.
I could see how the shocks themselves are the problem, I tried a set of Dobinsons springs originally and had exactly the same problem.

I felt every crack in the road and was even worse off road. Although both are HD, I absolutely recommend the Lovell's as all I changed were the springs and all was good.

Hope this helps with the next set up choice

BTW- Current set up is complete uncarriage Bush an bearings replacement, all steering links inc.
2" lift ++, 285/75R16 Muddies, Ralliart transplanted 6G74.

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FarawayCampers FarawayCampers is offline
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Thanks to replies so far... yeah, changed an old car to Lovells from OME suspension once and it transformed the car so totally agree they make a good spring!



Old Jack - always a wealth of info... thanks...


Re: Wheel alignment... it was done when the suspension/tyres was installed... however, was not redone a week later when I installed the bull bar and winch.


Would that weight make that much of a difference to the alignment and then the ride? Surely not?!?!


If anything the tyres are on the softer side for highway driving, but they are ok.. mid 30's.


I will check the ride heights too as you suggest when it isn't freezing cold and raining here, and after work of course.


Incidentally, there is a metal type squeak from the front drivers side suspension when it goes up and down, so thinking they tightened the shock up while vehicle lifted - thoughts?


Yeah, they didn't mention adjusting the front shockers, only the rear (but again, couldn't justify why).




I would never send my vehicle there - they stripped the spare wheel carrier nut/bolt. When I alerted this to them, they used a die grinder to try and grind off the welds on the nuts. Instead, they ground the pressed wheel carrier... they also bent it up when they tried to pull off the nut. They couldn't get it off and bent up the panel in the process - no apology either! They also over-tightened nearly every wheel nut, with a couple being under-tight too! I needed a 1 meter breaker bar to undo and still struggled! They also told me that the shocks are "single use" and one of the bolts was "loose". what a joke. Everything was fine going in!!! Koni's are a rebuild-able product so...


Oooo... a break in the rain...


Front - 515mm

Rear - 550mm

With 5mm difference on either side
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Ride heights are 12mm higher in the front and 17mm higher in the rear compared to factory specification so not a big lift.

Tyre pressures at mid 30's should be ok.

Considering the high degree of mechanical prowess displayed by the professionals that fitted the suspension. I would definitely be getting another 4 wheel alignment done and get the print outs to check. Reason I say this is sometime ago I changed the rear coils over in M&M NX and before it had a 4 wheel alignment it drove really badly over 60kph, it was pitching and bouncing all over the place. Turned out the rear suspension had huge toe in even though these adjusters were not touched when we replaced the coils. I have never had this happen and have done about 6 rear coil changes on Gen 4's without an issues. M&M NX was running BFG KO2 at the time, maybe this is just a coincidence ???

OJ.
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FarawayCampers FarawayCampers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
...it was pitching and bouncing all over the place. Turned out the rear suspension had huge toe in even though these adjusters were not touched when we replaced the coils. I have never had this happen and have done about 6 rear coil changes on Gen 4's without an issues. M&M NX was running BFG KO2 at the time, maybe this is just a coincidence ???

OJ.

Are you hinting at BFG's having something to do with quality of ride LOL?


So the rear of the Pajero can have a lot more of an impact in the ride quality than most vehicles then? I will see if there is a reputable wheel alignment place to take her in during the next day or two and report back.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarawayCampers View Post
Are you hinting at BFG's having something to do with quality of ride LOL?


So the rear of the Pajero can have a lot more of an impact in the ride quality than most vehicles then? I will see if there is a reputable wheel alignment place to take her in during the next day or two and report back.
I am thinking the BFG might be sensitive to rear wheel toe in because of the stiff sidewalls. They might be tracking inwards and raising the ride height of the vehicle until the suspension load is sufficient to push the tyre's back outwards and then this action repeats itself setting up a rear suspension "bounce". Just a random theory, no proof!

I was very surprised when M&M had problems after we changed the rear coils, I recall he said the vehicle bounced all over the place at 90kph. 4 wheel alignment done correctly and problem solved.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
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Wheel alignment specifications from Gen 3 Service Manual

Front.
CAMBER AND CASTER Standard value:
Camber: 000' 30' (difference between right and left wheels: within 30')
Caster: 350' 1 (difference between right and left wheels: within 30')
TOE-IN
Standard value: 2.5 2.5 mm (0.1 0.1 inch)

Rear.
Camber
Standard value: 0 30' (difference between right and left wheels: less than 30')
Toe-in
Standard value: 3 3 mm (0.12 0.12 inch)

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarawayCampers View Post
I will see if there is a reputable wheel alignment place to take her in during the next day or two and report back.
Ask for a full print-out of before & after measurements. Some major tyre chains have a reputation for only adjusting steering toe, and completely ignore camber, caster and rear wheels. When you find a good wheel aligner who can do your Paj properly, become friends!
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HomerJ HomerJ is offline
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I went from an aluminium bullbar to a steel one and 9500 lb winch. There was a huge difference in wheel alignment specs.
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