Engine not starting

[Mattpaj]

Hi guys,

Got a mate using my car in Melbourne. I am currently in Auckland so unable to look myself.
The car had been parked up for 9 months, mate picked is up a few weeks ago fired first time, drove it back from Maryborough to Craigiburn. No issues. Used it a couple of times all fine.
He's got a week off and gone to take it for a trip. Decided it doesn't want to start. Replaced the battery. It's turning over but no battery light on the dash when turn on ignition. Just the check engine light, hand brake light and the green light's on the 4x4 display.
It's a 1997 nk. Bought it about 3 years ago as a 3.5 DOHC and the engine blew up. Replaced it with a 3.5 SOHC out of an NL and had to fit an NL "security pack" immobiliser, ecu, key and key reader.
Since then I haven't had a problem driven across aus twice up to cairns and back.
Any ideas about this starting issue would be much appreciated.
Like I said. Engine running fine last week. Now won't go. Replaced battery. Turns over but not starting.
Thanks guys

[littleriver]

I’ll have a punt .. flat battery �� in key ?

..

[tomwithannl]

Littleriver. gen2 keys don't have batteries

Mattpaj: Possibly one of the main box fuses in fuse box near battery under bonnet?
Not sure about the batt light not on but he wouldn't be using the plain key instead of the immobiliser key would he?
Just my two bobs worth.

Tom

[Mattpaj]

He says he has checked all the fuses says he can't hear the fuel pump so could be that. But I used it March-June drIving up to cairns. Battery light has always come on with ignition, goes off when you fire up and comes back on if you turn engine off but key still on. Just strikes me as odd. I don't want him spending a load on it trying to find the problem if it's going to be something simple.
Only the coded key fits the ignition, the plain key is for the doors

[nj swb]

He says he has checked all the fuses says he can't hear the fuel pump so could be that. But I used it March-June drIving up to cairns. Battery light has always come on with ignition, goes off when you fire up and comes back on if you turn engine off but key still on. Just strikes me as odd. I don't want him spending a load on it trying to find the problem if it's going to be something simple.
Only the coded key fits the ignition, the plain key is for the doors

My first thought was crank angle sensor - as I understand it, if that doesn't signal that the engine is turning then the fuel pump doesn't run and spark won't fire.

Then I read about the NL immobiliser, and wondered if something has failed in the "retrofit" - dodgy electrical connection, loose key reader,

Battery light may simply be a failed globe.

[erad]

Try shorting pin 1 of the diagnostic connector and see what error codes come up. This is the quickest way to diagnose a fault.

[stumagoo]

NL keys have no batteries for the immobiliser. the receiving ring around the ignition is known to have the plug into the harness fail at times. and the keys have been known to fail as well (loose their coding)

Gen 2 fuel pumps dont prime when the key is on so he should not be hearing that either.... (the system batch fires while cranking and runs very rich)

[Mattpaj]

I'll see if he has the old dodgy key set up. When I originally had it done had a key that fit the ignition and a key with the code on the same key ring which worked but a bit poor at reading code sometimes. Got a new key with the right code couple of years ago. It might be that I hope.

[Mattpaj]

Thanks for all the idea guys. And Stu you helped a lot when I first did the whole engine replacement so thanks again.

[Mattpaj]

If it turns out to be the coding lost can auto electricians reprogrammed the coding without costing the earth? When I first had it done I had to get a 'security kit' out of another nl. Ecu immobiliser, key, ignition barrel and key reader. The wreckers wouldn't sell any of it separately and it cost me nearly 1000 bucks. Could do without spending that much money at the moment.
Thanks in advance

[erad]

I believe it SHOULD be possible to recode the system, but I doubt that a backyard (or anyone other than a genuine Mitsubishi dealer) could do it. You would need a MUTT2 . It would be worth talking to a locksmith who can program keys, and see if he can recover the codes. Otherwise, I recall that there were ways around the immobiliser to get that out of the system, but fortunately for me I never had to go down that path. Are you sure it is immobiliser? What about the battery light that was not coming up?

[disco stu]

Has he tried the shorting the obd pin and counting the flashes thing?

From what I've gathered if it's the immobilizer causing the problem it always logs code 54, so it's a quick way of ruling that one out. I was chasing a similar issue when I first got my car and thought it was immobilizer. Turned out to be fuel pump for me

[bsperka]

I had a fuel pump die in between 2 weekends of running. (Brushes melted out of the body!! Surprised that it was running the previous couple of times).
Use the fuel pump wire in the engine bay to test if it's the pump that has died. Black connector taped to harness on lhs. Feed 12v into it and the pump should run if pump is serviceable.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[Mattpaj]

Ok so back to the drawing board. It is not just the battery light. He says no electrics work. Thought he told me this.
My first thought was accessories relay. he says only one relay in the engine bay doesn't seem to work and he can't get the same one at repco. I know the acc relay is above the cabin fuse box.
He says he went through everything. Changed a few fuses but all relays seemed to work apart from one in the engine bay.
I know the alternator was on the way out.
When the key is turned the engine turns over but no electrics at all so I don't think it's now anything to do with the code or immobiliser.
Does anyone have a picture of the engine fuse box lid that says what all relays are?
It's a 1997 3.5l NK. Only thing changed was the engine and engine loom to an NL so all the other parts should be original NK.
Any advice and ideas much appreciated


Cheers guys

Matt

[nj swb]

My first thought was crank angle sensor - as I understand it, if that doesn't signal that the engine is turning then the fuel pump doesn't run and spark won't fire.

Have you confirmed that the crank angle sensor is working?