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Hi yawl,
I picked up a cheap throttle controller off ebay ~$100 and have seem them as low as around 80.
It's the Eittar 9S model
A mate has both the idrive and the cheaper original kings and speaks highly off them both .
He has said the idrive has more options but if you just want the increase in throttle sensitivity they both do a similar job.
With that info in hand I figured I'd roll the dice on a one similarly priced to the kings, since they didn't have them available since the first launch and feedback seemed to be good.
They have released another unit after I got this one but it seems to need a phone connection to control and I didn't like that.
I'd prefer one with a controller on dash .
This one is tiny.
here it is compared to a AA battery
Connection is made like all others, via an inline plug that connects between the throttle and the original cable.
This is what it looks like out of the box and what is included. Not much, but all you need I guess.
Connection is a piece of cake and installation even easier.
Since I lent it to a friend to test in his triton, I got used to reaching up and connecting/disconnecting without the need to physically see what i was going. All by feel.
Although, I'm a bit nifty on unclasping bras (skill for life) in the dark too....just sayin.
This image is in the Pajero NT and you can see how it connects
The circles are the 2 connectors.
The top one goes to the original cable and the 2nd is fitted into the original socket.
The arrow points down to the accelerator peddle for reference.
It couldn't be easier.
When you install it and take it for its first run, you notice immediately how much more responsive the vehicle is to throttle inputs.
No, it does not remove turbo lag but I can tell you it certainly does improve things when the boost comes up.
With the Paj, I've nearly got caught out a few times rolling up to a round about and trying to make a small gap.
Hitting the loud pedal expecting to shoot the hole but ending up watching the car getting closer and not being able to do anything about it until it spooled up.
It wasn't so much of an issue with the controller fitted but still warranted caution.
There mostly seems to be 2 schools of thought on these, with a few exceptions.
Those who have tried them and speak positively of them and those who have not and will share their opinion as to WHY they can't work.
Now whilst I have tried one, I'm not entirely wrapped but that is because of THIS specific unit.
Yet overall, I must say I am a convert to the whole scenario and will be purchasing another ....maybe the idrive.
The reason this unit was not suitable (received an ebay refund because of it) is because at low speeds and exaggerated in Low range, the thing lurches like a bastard.
I've tried everything to control the input to the pedal but nothing makes any difference. My friend who tested it on his triton reported the same issue.
It all but becomes dangerous navigating car parks where slow speeds are required. It's also a bit embarrassing looking like a learner bunny hopping along in public.
Granted when you get a bit of speed up it makes the drive more enjoyable but for my use, I can't forfeit that control when off road for a bit of extra acceleration at speed.
Now to how I tested it.
This is not scientific but it was the best I could do with what I had available.
To get the data, I used my OBD2 reader and the torque app and did a few runs 0-60kmh
Frankly I was a little surprised at the results.
Granted, I could have done multiple passes but getting the footage took its own time and editing it down was over 3-4 hours. So it's already a fair investment in time but I hope it's sufficient to give you an idea of what they're like.
The test involved starting at the same spot and testing in settings 1, 5, 9 and no controller.
There are 9 settings all up, with level 1 the lowest setting but still increasing sensitivity. This was the setting I used most of the time as anything higher was just to exaggerated on the bunny hop scenario.
I was hoping to have a setting to lower sensitivity like the idrive for off road but this one does not do that. It's all up and up.
For those who will say, just push the throttle harder or further, all tests involved putting the throttle FLAT to the floor.
So no, it couldn't go any further, so in theory it removes that item for debate.
Here are the settings I used in the toque app .
I detailed the max settings and time below each run.
from left to right they are 1,5,9 and no controller.
Interestingly SP1 was quickest followed by SP5 and SP9 consecutively with no controller coming in last for this test.
Boost with the controller reached up to 32PSI with no controller staying at 14.7.
So this could explain the harder acceleration.
The speed difference between the quickest controller run and no controller was 3.5 seconds.
I don't think there is any argument that can be made here to say they don't do anything and it's all in your head.
I hope this helps any one considering the purchase and also help you not to fall for this model I went with.
I fully expect some vigorous discussion over this one, but keeping it respectful would be nice
As always, here's the video of the tests and an example of the issues I experienced with it.
(with corrected data - thanks Keith)
Image lower data corrected also
cheers Brett
I picked up a cheap throttle controller off ebay ~$100 and have seem them as low as around 80.
It's the Eittar 9S model
A mate has both the idrive and the cheaper original kings and speaks highly off them both .
He has said the idrive has more options but if you just want the increase in throttle sensitivity they both do a similar job.
With that info in hand I figured I'd roll the dice on a one similarly priced to the kings, since they didn't have them available since the first launch and feedback seemed to be good.
They have released another unit after I got this one but it seems to need a phone connection to control and I didn't like that.
I'd prefer one with a controller on dash .
This one is tiny.
here it is compared to a AA battery
Connection is made like all others, via an inline plug that connects between the throttle and the original cable.
This is what it looks like out of the box and what is included. Not much, but all you need I guess.
Connection is a piece of cake and installation even easier.
Since I lent it to a friend to test in his triton, I got used to reaching up and connecting/disconnecting without the need to physically see what i was going. All by feel.
Although, I'm a bit nifty on unclasping bras (skill for life) in the dark too....just sayin.
This image is in the Pajero NT and you can see how it connects
The circles are the 2 connectors.
The top one goes to the original cable and the 2nd is fitted into the original socket.
The arrow points down to the accelerator peddle for reference.
It couldn't be easier.
When you install it and take it for its first run, you notice immediately how much more responsive the vehicle is to throttle inputs.
No, it does not remove turbo lag but I can tell you it certainly does improve things when the boost comes up.
With the Paj, I've nearly got caught out a few times rolling up to a round about and trying to make a small gap.
Hitting the loud pedal expecting to shoot the hole but ending up watching the car getting closer and not being able to do anything about it until it spooled up.
It wasn't so much of an issue with the controller fitted but still warranted caution.
There mostly seems to be 2 schools of thought on these, with a few exceptions.
Those who have tried them and speak positively of them and those who have not and will share their opinion as to WHY they can't work.
Now whilst I have tried one, I'm not entirely wrapped but that is because of THIS specific unit.
Yet overall, I must say I am a convert to the whole scenario and will be purchasing another ....maybe the idrive.
The reason this unit was not suitable (received an ebay refund because of it) is because at low speeds and exaggerated in Low range, the thing lurches like a bastard.
I've tried everything to control the input to the pedal but nothing makes any difference. My friend who tested it on his triton reported the same issue.
It all but becomes dangerous navigating car parks where slow speeds are required. It's also a bit embarrassing looking like a learner bunny hopping along in public.
Granted when you get a bit of speed up it makes the drive more enjoyable but for my use, I can't forfeit that control when off road for a bit of extra acceleration at speed.
Now to how I tested it.
This is not scientific but it was the best I could do with what I had available.
To get the data, I used my OBD2 reader and the torque app and did a few runs 0-60kmh
Frankly I was a little surprised at the results.
Granted, I could have done multiple passes but getting the footage took its own time and editing it down was over 3-4 hours. So it's already a fair investment in time but I hope it's sufficient to give you an idea of what they're like.
The test involved starting at the same spot and testing in settings 1, 5, 9 and no controller.
There are 9 settings all up, with level 1 the lowest setting but still increasing sensitivity. This was the setting I used most of the time as anything higher was just to exaggerated on the bunny hop scenario.
I was hoping to have a setting to lower sensitivity like the idrive for off road but this one does not do that. It's all up and up.
For those who will say, just push the throttle harder or further, all tests involved putting the throttle FLAT to the floor.
So no, it couldn't go any further, so in theory it removes that item for debate.
Here are the settings I used in the toque app .
I detailed the max settings and time below each run.
from left to right they are 1,5,9 and no controller.
Interestingly SP1 was quickest followed by SP5 and SP9 consecutively with no controller coming in last for this test.
Boost with the controller reached up to 32PSI with no controller staying at 14.7.
So this could explain the harder acceleration.
The speed difference between the quickest controller run and no controller was 3.5 seconds.
I don't think there is any argument that can be made here to say they don't do anything and it's all in your head.
I hope this helps any one considering the purchase and also help you not to fall for this model I went with.
I fully expect some vigorous discussion over this one, but keeping it respectful would be nice
As always, here's the video of the tests and an example of the issues I experienced with it.
(with corrected data - thanks Keith)
Image lower data corrected also
cheers Brett
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