3.2 DiD Upper Chain Guide Replacement How to..

[Phil]

Was changed to the new design on the NS model.

[VirtualT]

Hey guys I checked mine today on a NM that I have recently purchased, OMG it was worn down to the steel..., the rest of it must be in the engine somewhere.

After replacing the guide I ran the motor for about 50km before I realised that I needed to reset the tensioner.

There was quite a bit of tension on the chain when I bolted the new guide in, do you think I might have damaged the chain by running it like this?

Cheers.

[JamesSweeting]

After replacing the guide I ran the motor for about 50km before I realised that I needed to reset the tensioner.

There was quite a bit of tension on the chain when I bolted the new guide in, do you think I might have damaged the chain by running it like this?

Are you sure you have to reset the tensioner? - I must have missed that bit

I just tightened mine down hard and have been driving it for a while now

Please let me know

cheers

[Pocka]

Great Guide with the photos. I replaced mine a while ago but this guide with the photos would have saved me a lot of time.

[magic]

Quick question. For everyone who has replaced this at home, did you use a torque wrench?

[VirtualT]

Quick question. For everyone who has replaced this at home, did you use a torque wrench?

Yes.., its good practice to use a torque wrench when working on any motor internals unless you are suitably experienced and feel comfortable with judging the torque by feel.

[magic]

Yes.., its good practice to use a torque wrench when working on any motor internals unless you are suitably experienced and feel comfortable with judging the torque by feel.

Too easy, thanks mate

[Axis]

Are you sure you have to reset the tensioner? - I must have missed that bit

I just tightened mine down hard and have been driving it for a while now

Please let me know

cheers

Yes tensioner needs to be reset to prevent over tensioning of the chain as when the old guide is removed or if it has worn to the metal the tensioner will have tightened.

Is pretty easy to reset and does not need the rocker cover off.

Also agree with the torque wrench comments.

Cheers,
James

[oscardean]

JUst replaced my guide on my 04 with 250oookms. Looked pretty good to me which I was surprised about. Went a bit tighter then 33Nm by accident. Did not reset tensioner either as my mechanic said not to bother. There was only one dealer in Brisbane that had the part also...

[Pilks]

I checked with my local dealer and they want $81.10 for the guide. Is this correct?

[Dicko1]

I checked with my local dealer and they want $81.10 for the guide. Is this correct?

Try getting one through Amayama...Should be a lot cheaper. You just need the part number.

[Pilks]

Try getting one through Amayama...Should be a lot cheaper. You just need the part number.

Thanks Dicko - If this is the correct part then you are right - it's a lot cheaper!

The description isn't really telling me anything though?

Mitsubishi 1140A026 - LINING 1 days From Australia (Sydney) stock $13.52

Do I just take a punt that Lining is the upper timing chain guide?

[oscardean]

mine cost 28 i think from dealer

[Pilks]

I finally got around to doing this at the weekend. I had planned it for some time got all the pieces together, read the instructions countless times. The first part went well. removed the EGR pipes took the rocker cover off and there was the original guide. I removed this and cleaned it up and sure enough there was a small hair line crack in one corner. Installed the new guide to recommended torque, removed the tensioner and reset it. This was where things started to go wrong and turned this into a nightmare job.
The tensioner had obviously not ever been taken off and on removing the gasket had desolved to nothing and was baked onto the side of the block. I removed as much as I could and used some gasket maker compound. Put it back on, turned over the engine and it zipped / clicked into place. Put everything back together and turned on the car. I had it sitting there quite happily for a while and then realised that oil was gushing out the side of the tensioner! It pays to read what the instant gasket stuff does. On closer inspection the stuff I had been sold needed 24 hours to cure!
Anyway, I had to leave it there for the day and yesterday went to buy the proper gasket. Got told this is OEM only and being a Sunday I wasnt going to be able to get one. So plan B. Bought some 1mm gasket paper and cut my own. Took everything apart again, spent a lot longer cleaning / scraping the old gasket off the block. Put it all back together again.
Now I had reset the tensioner again and thought it had clicked back into place. Turned the car on and could hear the chain flapping about. Turned off straight away and removed the rocker cover again to inspect the tensioner. It wouldn't release from the small hook? I had to take it off again..... Anway by now the tensioner decided it didnt want to play anymore and the small hook broke! I ended up pushing the tensioner in, tying it in place with fine cotton string and then mounting it again. I then used a small chisel to cut the string and the tensioner zipped into place
I figured a tiny amount of cotton string will not do any harm in there and will get dissolved in the oil etc.
I then put it all back together again.
As part of all this I was also blanking the EGR. My first plan was just to blank it off at the cooler box as this is simplest. But my weekend with the paj was anything but simple. One of the captive bolts on the cooler snapped on the last time of putting it back together (i was probably over zealous by now). So plan B kicked in and as I had the full blanking kit I decided to remove the EGR pipes, cooler box, valve and plug the vacuum hose.
At least in WA we dont have any pit inspections / annual checks.
The positive to this is I now have more room on the left hand side of the engine for a possible future second fuel filter

[Dicko1]

I finally got around to doing this at the weekend. I had planned it for some time got all the pieces together, read the instructions countless times. The first part went well. removed the EGR pipes took the rocker cover off and there was the original guide. I removed this and cleaned it up and sure enough there was a small hair line crack in one corner. Installed the new guide to recommended torque, removed the tensioner and reset it. This was where things started to go wrong and turned this into a nightmare job.
The tensioner had obviously not ever been taken off and on removing the gasket had desolved to nothing and was baked onto the side of the block. I removed as much as I could and used some gasket maker compound. Put it back on, turned over the engine and it zipped / clicked into place. Put everything back together and turned on the car. I had it sitting there quite happily for a while and then realised that oil was gushing out the side of the tensioner! It pays to read what the instant gasket stuff does. On closer inspection the stuff I had been sold needed 24 hours to cure!
Anyway, I had to leave it there for the day and yesterday went to buy the proper gasket. Got told this is OEM only and being a Sunday I wasnt going to be able to get one. So plan B. Bought some 1mm gasket paper and cut my own. Took everything apart again, spent a lot longer cleaning / scraping the old gasket off the block. Put it all back together again.
Now I had reset the tensioner again and thought it had clicked back into place. Turned the car on and could hear the chain flapping about. Turned off straight away and removed the rocker cover again to inspect the tensioner. It wouldn't release from the small hook? I had to take it off again..... Anway by now the tensioner decided it didnt want to play anymore and the small hook broke! I ended up pushing the tensioner in, tying it in place with fine cotton string and then mounting it again. I then used a small chisel to cut the string and the tensioner zipped into place
I figured a tiny amount of cotton string will not do any harm in there and will get dissolved in the oil etc.
I then put it all back together again.
As part of all this I was also blanking the EGR. My first plan was just to blank it off at the cooler box as this is simplest. But my weekend with the paj was anything but simple. One of the captive bolts on the cooler snapped on the last time of putting it back together (i was probably over zealous by now). So plan B kicked in and as I had the full blanking kit I decided to remove the EGR pipes, cooler box, valve and plug the vacuum hose.
At least in WA we dont have any pit inspections / annual checks.
The positive to this is I now have more room on the left hand side of the engine for a possible future second fuel filter

You haven,t run over any black cats have you?