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  • Pajshomoneroguntero
    Valued Member
    • Jul 2013
    • 1438
    • Sydney

    Fitting Security Nuts

    I decided to get a couple of security nuts to make it more difficult to remove what I worked for by those that could otherwise be described as c s.


    I realise now that there may be different techniques to fitment though. I'm securing spotties on the bullbar. The OEM came with a washer and nylock nut. So this leaves a few ways to use the security nuts:
    1. Washer/Nylock/Security nut ie
    2. Washer/Security Nut
    3. Security nut
    4. Washer/Security nut/Nylock



    I was thinking of going the last option I listed above mainly so that there is something to hold the lot together from vibrating loose.


    Is there a particular technique I should be using? Incidentally that is a stainless steel bolt and I have used a bit of anti-seize to guard against galling.
    NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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  • 4ndy
    Member
    • Jun 2018
    • 61
    • North West United Kingdom

    #2
    I wouldn't put the security nut over the nyloc as it'll be an easy task to remove with just a pair of mole grips (a c-nuts favourite tool).



    Washer - security nut - and nyloc for good measure, otherwise a blob of loctite would achieve the same under the security nut.
    MY13 (NW) SG2 LWB

    Foot Rest, Android Head Unit, EGR Resistor Mod (10k), "Car Shades", Other Stuff in Process....
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    • erad
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2015
      • 5067
      • Cooma NSW

      #3
      Not C___ proof, but I drilled all my lightbar mounting bolts and wired them. They can loosen the bolts from above, but they are not going to come off unless you get inside the bullbar and remove the wires and then the nuts. Hopefully they will give up and attack someone else's car.

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      • sharkcaver
        "2000"+ Valued Contributor
        • May 2009
        • 6270
        • Perth

        #4
        With the newer led driving lights around these days, there are 2 attachment points. The first being the bracket to the bullbar as described above. The second, is the light to the bracket itself, above the bull bar. I've seen theft of the light body leaving the bracket behind.....which sort of makes the theft rather useless, but this is the calibre of IQ you are dealing with meth head oxygen thieves.

        It makes one wonder if going through all these processes are really worthwhile

        If they want it, they will get it.
        MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

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        • Pajshomoneroguntero
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2013
          • 1438
          • Sydney

          #5
          Originally posted by 4ndy View Post
          I wouldn't put the security nut over the nyloc as it'll be an easy task to remove with just a pair of mole grips (a c-nuts favourite tool).



          Washer - security nut - and nyloc for good measure, otherwise a blob of loctite would achieve the same under the security nut.
          Thanks. Working in my favour though is a distinct lack of access. Whilst one may be able to get a pair of vice/mole grips onto the fastener there is very little room to move it. Although, given time, I suppose as long as there is some movement the fastener can be loosened. I'm running an extension socket via a universal joint and 200mm extension bar to get to it after removing the bottom plate covering the winch on the bull bar.


          Originally posted by erad View Post
          Not C___ proof, but I drilled all my lightbar mounting bolts and wired them. They can loosen the bolts from above, but they are not going to come off unless you get inside the bullbar and remove the wires and then the nuts. Hopefully they will give up and attack someone else's car.
          I recall you doing this and I gave it some consideration. The ARB bar though has a slot at the front allowing access to the underside of the BB and therefore the bolt from the spotties. I thought that unless I could make the wire non-removable within reason then it probably is not worth the effort.


          Originally posted by sharkcaver View Post
          With the newer led driving lights around these days, there are 2 attachment points. The first being the bracket to the bullbar as described above. The second, is the light to the bracket itself, above the bull bar. I've seen theft of the light body leaving the bracket behind.....which sort of makes the theft rather useless, but this is the calibre of IQ you are dealing with meth head oxygen thieves.

          It makes one wonder if going through all these processes are really worthwhile

          If they want it, they will get it.
          My lights do not allow access to the bolt from the bracket side but there is the hinge to allow for tilt. Like you say removing the light at this point is possible but you have to wonder.
          NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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          • vladguan
            Valued Member
            • Mar 2015
            • 2965
            • Adelaide

            #6
            Use spring washers to prevent it losening up under vibration. I also used M6 security bolts to secure the light to the bracket. My previous lights were on for almost 2 years and the security nuts were still very tightly screwed on.
            Please call me Vlad.
            -----------------------
            MY15 NX GLS - SPV EGR; Donaldson filter; Front sensors; Compass; DEI506T and DEI507M; LED interior and exterior lights; Blue LED step lights; 3T tow bar; 20% front & clear tint over privacy windows; Chrome handle protectors; 3x Bushskinz guards; Nudge bar; Hella Sharptones; Dual alarm horns; STEDI lightbar; TC mod loom; Paddles; ProVent 200; Dobinsons springs and MRR shocks; Bonnet struts; OCAM awning; Rear work light; Air compressor. TBD - UHF.

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            • Kingbrown
              Valued Member
              • Apr 2012
              • 1779
              • Port Augusta - SA

              #7
              My Fyrlyt spotlights are reasonably secure with the exposed lamp-to-bracket pivot bolt having an allen head, which is also recessed into the spotlight mounting bracket. It's still prone to theft though, if the little c's come armed with allen keys.

              My security solution was to plug the socket headed pivot bolt with a suitably sized nut and glue the nut in place (loctite or similar) once the spotties have been aligned.

              To get the glued nut out of the allen headed pivot bolt requires the use of a small jacking bolt to force the nut out. The allen headed bolt can't be moved unless the nut is removed.

              If your mountings use allen headed fasteners then this method may afford you some added security.
              2012 PB Challenger LS Manual

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              • Pajshomoneroguntero
                Valued Member
                • Jul 2013
                • 1438
                • Sydney

                #8
                Originally posted by Kingbrown View Post
                My Fyrlyt spotlights are reasonably secure with the exposed lamp-to-bracket pivot bolt having an allen head, which is also recessed into the spotlight mounting bracket. It's still prone to theft though, if the little c's come armed with allen keys.

                My security solution was to plug the socket headed pivot bolt with a suitably sized nut and glue the nut in place (loctite or similar) once the spotties have been aligned.

                To get the glued nut out of the allen headed pivot bolt requires the use of a small jacking bolt to force the nut out. The allen headed bolt can't be moved unless the nut is removed.

                If your mountings use allen headed fasteners then this method may afford you some added security.

                I think I understand what you've done but you wouldn't happen to have a pic would you?
                NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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                • Pajshomoneroguntero
                  Valued Member
                  • Jul 2013
                  • 1438
                  • Sydney

                  #10
                  Originally posted by vladguan View Post
                  You can get hex security bolts to replace standard ones. That is what I have done.
                  Might be the go too, thanks for the tip Vlad.
                  NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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                  • Kingbrown
                    Valued Member
                    • Apr 2012
                    • 1779
                    • Port Augusta - SA

                    #11
                    Originally posted by Pajshomoneroguntero View Post
                    I think I understand what you've done but you wouldn't happen to have a pic would you?
                    In my case the nut that blanks off the socket headed bolt is an M5. An M5 bolt must be used to jack the nut out.

                    20180909_101602.jpg
                    2012 PB Challenger LS Manual

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                    • Pajshomoneroguntero
                      Valued Member
                      • Jul 2013
                      • 1438
                      • Sydney

                      #12
                      Excellent and thanks that's how I interpreted your earlier post
                      NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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