First Paj Purchase - what's the worst case cost scenario on 4LLC not locking in?

[gregp]

Hi guys,


Bitta background first...


First time post so be nice! Long time Commodore owner looking for our first Paj for a big lap next year (done two half laps with the VY Berlina Wagon and it did great but we want to explore a bit further).


So... we are looking to spend around $25k ideally on a NW although we'd consider a clean NT. The main features we're looking for are:
* white in colour
* reliability
* rear air con
* ideally MMCS so we get the reversing camera and sat nav (we could manage with the basic system and the in-mirror camera on the GLX-R)
* ideally a diff lock, but mainly just 'cos rather than a necessity.


I'm not interested in getting burnt legs from leather seats or having a rear DVD player, so we'd pretty well settled on either a GLX-R (which gets the rear A/C, diff lock and reversing camera in the mirror), or VRX to get both as well as MMCS and install seat covers to deal with the leather parts of the seat.



There aren't many in our price point unfortunately. We've looked at a few (well aided by the inspection checklists athttps://www.redbook.com.au/editorial...006-13-112314/ and http://www.pajero.guru/mitsubishi-pajero-buying-guide/), and have driven three.


Today we drove a NW Exceed https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...-6288939/?Cr=4. Which is totally not what I was looking for - as I said not interested in leather, DVD, wood grain doesn't do anything for me and it's silver But SA had no VRX's available, the only local GLX-R was pretty tired, the price was OK and we could probably put up with those things if we had to. But this is the second Pajero we've driven where 4LLC hasn't locked in - the green lights have just kept flashing. I know from my browsing already that there can be various reasons for this, including the switch under the selector or solenoids. The owner said it normally takes about 30 seconds to lock in but it didn't do it while he was with us, nor while we were on our test drive.


So I'm wondering - 1) how long SHOULD it take to lock into a new drive mode, and 2) if I can get a good price on this car, should I take a punt and hope it's just the switch or a solenoid? If it's something more serious, what could the cost be?


The rest of the car was in reasonable nick, the bodywork was very good with only a small dent. There was some oil around the braided intercooler hoses coming out of the turbo and down to the right of the radiator which I assume is the intercooler exit point. And there were a few bits of damaged trim (cracked speedo plastic cover, a bit of centre console trim with a crack and one of the vent adjusters was missing its control slider). Apparently the 220000k has been country / freeway driving and it certainly drove nicely. We have several thousand of extras to put on (e.g. electric brakes, Anderson plug, CB, possibly a bull bar, maybe a dual battery), so I don't want to be paying too much for unexpected repairs.



Of course if someone's got a nice white VRX in Adelaide with all the right fruit... PM me!



Thanks,
Greg

[spot01]

To get to or from 4LLc, stop car with front wheels straight ahead, put in N (assuming auto), shift to 4LLc, into D & let it creep forward in straight line - it should go solid quite quickly. Note wheels MUST stay straight ahead & in N - they won't shift if turned or in D. They can be a bit tempramental at times, but it should all work fairly quickly.
Also, only move the transfer selector one position at a time, then wait until it is solid before moving to another position, or it will get confused & refuse to play ball.
Different tyre sizes or uneven wear/pressures can upset them at times - these items must be matched.


I'd pass on any car where things don't work properly. If you can find one with all the extras you want it should work out cheaper than fitting it all yourself. Be patient and you will find the right car.

[carnut1100]

As above, MUST be in N...won’t shift in P or any gear.

[gaudough]

As above, MUST be in N...won’t shift in P or any gear.

100% must be in Neutral and not moving

[Stinky]

Shame you're not a bit closer.

https://www.andersonsautocity.com.au/used-vehicles-gladstone-central/view/2013-Mitsubishi-Pajero/19554382

[BaronVonChickenPants]

I had issues with my NW VRX when I first purchased it as the Winnrun tyres the dealer fitted to the rear were not the correct size.

The were stamped as the correct size but were about 10% smaller.

Once I changed to better brand tyres everything worked without issue, even Dunlop on the front and Bridgestone on the rear worked as long as they were actually the same size.

[Poppabare]

My NW recently indicated that the centre diff was locked in when that was not the case. Local Mitsubishi dealer diagnosed the fault and fitted five new switches to the transfer case at a cost of about $850 parts plus one hour labour. I must admit the gearbox selection is much better now. MMA would not entertain an out of warranty claim even though the warranty expired less that 11 months ago and the vehicle had only travelled 128,000K.
Poppabare.

[spot01]

My NW recently indicated that the centre diff was locked in when that was not the case. Local Mitsubishi dealer diagnosed the fault and fitted five new switches to the transfer case at a cost of about $850 parts plus one hour labour. I must admit the gearbox selection is much better now. MMA would not entertain an out of warranty claim even though the warranty expired less that 11 months ago and the vehicle had only travelled 128,000K.
Poppabare.

That is disappointing treatment by MMAL. If you bought it new & if not caused by abuse, I believe you may still have a statutory warranty claim under the Australian Consumer Law. I would be sending them a formal letter of claim quoting the ACL (a solicitor can help with a letter if needed or Office of Fair Trading may be able to assist). I detest manufacturers & retailers that won't honour their obligations under the ACL and try to bluff their way out.

[Jasonmc73]

That is disappointing treatment by MMAL. If you bought it new & if not caused by abuse, I believe you may still have a statutory warranty claim under the Australian Consumer Law. I would be sending them a formal letter of claim quoting the ACL (a solicitor can help with a letter if needed or Office of Fair Trading may be able to assist). I detest manufacturers & retailers that won't honour their obligations under the ACL and try to bluff their way out.

To be fair, 128,000 k's, is the warranty 100,000k's?
That is 28% out of warranty, not 1%.
11 months past warranty period as well.

Not like the transmission had a catostrophic failure.

It was a failed switch, I highly doubt all 5 switches failed??

Dealer replaced all 5 switches at no cost too anyone but the owner, hence all 5 switches were replaced maybe?
Which was possibly & unnecessery outcome.
Saves diagnosing I suppose just throw 5 switches at it, problem solved & maybe not a bad course of action, maybe not required as well!

Recently work ute, Triton popping out of 4th gear, out of warranty 6,000k's & few months. Logbooks not even filled out, fixed by MM motors no questions asked. Dealer was advised we did have records of services, which we did. Dealer never asked us to produce the evidence, book was empty.
We dropped of the ute, they rung when fixed.

[Keithyv]

Isn't there a 10 year drivetrain warranty as long as it's still owned by the original owner?

[spot01]

Isn't there a 10 year drivetrain warranty as long as it's still owned by the original owner?

There was on the earlier NWs.
I think they also had the 130k/5yr full warranty.

[JoshF]

Isn't there a 10 year drivetrain warranty as long as it's still owned by the original owner?

that was dropped in about 2012

[gregp]

Thanks for your replies all. Should I be worried about oil sodden braid around the air hose coming out of the turbo and on the other side? See photos below - first is coming out of the turbo, the other is underneath the car on the passenger's side, I am assuming exiting the intercooler and going to the engine.


The hose on the turbo was loose enough for me to pull and slide it a bit, so I assume the hose clamp just needs tightening and that there's a slight air leak, and that there is some oil in the air. But it just seems quite a lot of it? Is this normal or a problem? Other than this and the 4LLC lights, the rest of the car was in reasonable nick mechanically.



Thanks guys,


Greg

[drgtr]

Thanks for your replies all. Should I be worried about oil sodden braid around the air hose coming out of the turbo and on the other side? See photos below - first is coming out of the turbo, the other is underneath the car on the passenger's side, I am assuming exiting the intercooler and going to the engine.


The hose on the turbo was loose enough for me to pull and slide it a bit, so I assume the hose clamp just needs tightening and that there's a slight air leak, and that there is some oil in the air. But it just seems quite a lot of it? Is this normal or a problem? Other than this and the 4LLC lights, the rest of the car was in reasonable nick mechanically.



Thanks guys,


Greg

Normal on turbo diesel. Its typical blowby from the positive vent crank.
Hence people install oil catch cans to collect that

[old Jack]

Best to replace the normal hose clamps on the turbo hoses with these;

https://tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/480/hose-clamps/369545/ttbu-series-t-bolt-ultimate

Available from Adelaide Belt and Hose, Repco in Adelaide keep a limited range.

You need to measure the diameter of the hose carefully as this type of clamps has quite a specific working range so it is important to get the correct size clamps. Inlet and outlet hose diameters will likely be different.

OJ.