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  • Richyd
    Member
    • Dec 2019
    • 126
    • Sydney

    Replacing suspension and bushes

    Hey Guys,

    Just about to start the task of replacing the shocks, coils and bushes. Was hoping for a bit of guidance.

    I have purchased a universal bushing remover to allow the bushing removal and replacement (most don't need shells replaced but some do).

    I have purchased KYB skorched 4 shocks, king coils 50mm lift (front and back), EFS front strut top mounts, polytuff upper and lower rear coil insulators and a polypro 206k bushing kit.

    Bushing kit contains:
    Front Control Arm Lower-Inner Front & Rear Bush Kit
    Front Control Arm Upper-Inner Bush Kit
    Rear Control Arm Lower-Inner & Outer Bush Kit
    Rear Control Arm Upper-Inner Bush Kit
    Rear Toe Control Arm Inner Bush Kit
    Rear Trailing Arm Lower-Front Bush Kit
    Rear Trailing Arm Lower-Rear Bush Kit.

    So, my questions are:
    1) is there anything else that I should buy before starting?

    2) Anything else that I should replace whilst already doing this?

    3) is there a strut top mount for the rear shocks that needs replacing? I cannot find evidence of one.

    4) does anyone know of a 'how to' on replacing the bushes?
    I have the 'how to' on replacing the shocks (https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...nstall&page=13) which I'm sure is going to be very helpful but was hoping there may be a bushing one that I hadn't found. I have the service manual (through http://www.pajero4x4.ru/piii/) but was hoping for something a bit more helpful..

    Thanks again for all the help everyone!
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11621
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    With all those suspension bushes to replace then you will need a 20 ton hydraulic press, you may get away with a lower rated press but suspension bushes can be very stubborn to remove and sometimes require heating/cutting out. You will also need press tools so you press on the outer circumference of the bushes and support the suspension arms so they are not bent by the process. Most times you can use a socket that is just smaller than the outer diameter of the bush as the press tool and a socket just larger than the outer diameter as the anvil tool. Sometimes you need to make you own tools.

    If is just a once off job it maybe cheaper to remove the suspension arms and take them to a workshop and have the bushes pressed out and in for you.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • geopaj
      Valued Member
      • Jul 2007
      • 2756
      • Adelaide

      #3
      As a side note, what site of bushes are you using?

      There’s been a few people here that have used non-rubber ‘Nolathane style’ bushes and have reported that it has significantly increased Noise and harshness.
      Silver NT VRX Di-D

      ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

      My Build Thread - HERE

      Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

      Comment

      • Richyd
        Member
        • Dec 2019
        • 126
        • Sydney

        #4
        Thanks OJ- good advice as usual. I do have access to a friend's 20T press, so hopefully I can sort something there.... If not, as you said, I can always take them to a mechanic for those bits...

        Geopaj- I am using the nalothane type bushes.
        Like you, I have also read those stories. I have also read reviews of people who have been very happy with them though.
        At the end of the day, it was easier to find the nalothane bushes than rubber ones- I also managed to get a very good deal, so that really 'sealed the deal' for me!

        Comment

        • chippy4x4
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2009
          • 320
          • adelaide

          #5
          Originally posted by geopaj View Post
          As a side note, what site of bushes are you using?

          There’s been a few people here that have used non-rubber ‘Nolathane style’ bushes and have reported that it has significantly increased Noise and harshness.
          Agreed. I will never again fit nolathane type bushes. I have found them to be too hard, noisy and prone to causing stress to the metal around them, resulting in welding being required to the chassis rail in one instance. Lets face it, if they were that good then the manufacturers would fit them. The rubber type stock bushes last a long time and give a ride that is good. It is all good to say that the nolathane will out last the originals, but hell lets face it who's going to have the car that long. Anyway that is my thoughts and I am sure that I will get shot down.......lol. However, my knowledge is from experience, and I have been around since rainbows were still BLACK & WHITE..

          Comment

          • Terryo
            Valued Member
            • Jul 2007
            • 484
            • Where ever we are parked, traveling full time

            #6
            Was looking for upper and lower control arm bushes as the originals were getting squeaky after 440K.
            I was told by a couple of parts suppliers you can't get after market rubber bushes and they are parts supplier that usually know what they are talking about, not SC.Would like some links to be prove them wrong.

            Local mechanic also said to steer clear of nolathane due to lack of longevity. He also does custom reconditioning old old cars.
            Ended up getting upper nolathane as I thought if they last half as long as the originals they would probably see me out. Still looking for lower ones.
            2015 NX GLX DiD,MM Steel bullbar, Ultimate Suspension 2” lift, King 9’ LED driving lights, Uniden UHF, TJM underbody protection, Engine Watchdog. Munji EGR delete cable.Dual battery. Ultra Guage, Fuel Manager primary fuel filter. KAON Cargo barrier. Drifta drawer and fridge slide. MM4x4 Automate Pro. In tow,Track Trailer T van.

            Previously
            NH 1992 GLS 3.0 V6 13 years
            NP 2005 GLX 3.2 DiD 12 years

            Comment

            • chippy4x4
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2009
              • 320
              • adelaide

              #7
              Originally posted by Terryo View Post
              Was looking for upper and lower control arm bushes as the originals were getting squeaky after 440K.
              I was told by a couple of parts suppliers you can't get after market rubber bushes and they are parts supplier that usually know what they are talking about, not SC.Would like some links to be prove them wrong.

              Local mechanic also said to steer clear of nolathane due to lack of longevity. He also does custom reconditioning old old cars.
              Ended up getting upper nolathane as I thought if they last half as long as the originals they would probably see me out. Still looking for lower ones.
              Try these guys they might be able to help
              Transgold offers rubber suspension components suitable for most makes and models.

              Comment

              • gemster
                Valued Member
                • Aug 2012
                • 698
                • Gold Coast

                #8
                Have a search on Ebay... There's heaps of Rubber ones...

                Mountco, Febest, Kelpro even Mitsubishi ones if some have stock. All Rubber....

                Most I have mentioned are good quality... Part numbers can help in your search...

                Spare Parts places will charge you a fortune for Rubber ones.... I was quoted $385 for control arm bushes from a well known Ripco joint...... I laughed and got them from Ebay for $135... Same brand as I was quoted, over Half the price saved...

                Or save even more $ and buy them from Overseas for under $15 per bush at most places for my NL... Just have to pay postage, ouch, but still works out way cheaper...

                Gemster...
                Last edited by gemster; 27-05-20, 09:27 PM.
                YES. ITS A MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps...
                And a 1999 NL LWB... Called 'Project Covid".. Stock Standard.
                ..Both with No Airbags. We die like real Men

                Comment

                • Richyd
                  Member
                  • Dec 2019
                  • 126
                  • Sydney

                  #9
                  Thanks all!
                  Not feeling so great about my decision with the nalothane bushes now (I'm sure they'll be fine). Some of my bushes currently are almost completely gone, so anything has got to be better

                  Can anyone confirm if there is any type of strut mount for the rear shocks that I should replace (I'm replacing the front ones obviously)?

                  I assume no one in know's of a good 'how to' for replacing the bushes either?

                  Comment

                  • old Jack
                    Regular
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 11621
                    • Adelaide, South Australia.

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Richyd View Post
                    Thanks all!
                    Not feeling so great about my decision with the nalothane bushes now (I'm sure they'll be fine). Some of my bushes currently are almost completely gone, so anything has got to be better

                    Can anyone confirm if there is any type of strut mount for the rear shocks that I should replace (I'm replacing the front ones obviously)?

                    I assume no one in know's of a good 'how to' for replacing the bushes either?
                    There are no separate replaceable rear shocker upper mount, the shocker shaft directly bolts through the body structure. If this upper mounting hole elongates because the shocker shaft bushes have been left for too long and have really flogged out then the elongated hole needs to be repaired or bushed before fitting new shockers can be fitted.

                    If it was my car I wouldn't risk use urethane bushes, I would look at returning then if possible even if a restocking/handling fee was charged. There are too many bad stories about using urethane bushes.

                    Chances are you will have at least 1 or more wheel alignment adjuster bolts seized in the bushes and these need to be cut out and then the bolts replaced when the bushes are replaced. I have replaced the inner rear swing arm bushes after having to cut seized adjuster bolts out, it took half a day to cut 2 bolts , remove the swing arms, remove the bushes, fit new bushes and reassemble with new bolts (with anti-seize). We did this without a press and tried to use a 6" vice but we ended up breaking the vice!

                    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but better you go into this with fully informed and prepared.

                    OJ.
                    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                    Comment

                    • Richyd
                      Member
                      • Dec 2019
                      • 126
                      • Sydney

                      #11
                      Thanks OJ. That's what I thought with the rear shocks but just wanted confirmation.

                      Do you know where you can get the allignment adjustor bolts? I tried looking online but couldn't find the part number and other searches didn't find me anything...

                      Comment

                      • old Jack
                        Regular
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 11621
                        • Adelaide, South Australia.

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Richyd View Post
                        Thanks OJ. That's what I thought with the rear shocks but just wanted confirmation.

                        Do you know where you can get the allignment adjustor bolts? I tried looking online but couldn't find the part number and other searches didn't find me anything...
                        Go to online site for Partsouq, enter you VIN and search for the part numbers, if they do not have the all parts at least you now have the part numbers do do further online searching from other suppliers.
                        We present to your attention our wide range of quality auto parts for many brands of cars. Our genuine parts catalogs and search by part number will help you!


                        OJ.
                        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                        Comment

                        • gemster
                          Valued Member
                          • Aug 2012
                          • 698
                          • Gold Coast

                          #13
                          Gee I hope you are not right needing a 20ton press old jack... I just bought a 12ton for the purpose of doing bushes...

                          We will see what happens...

                          Gemster...
                          YES. ITS A MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps...
                          And a 1999 NL LWB... Called 'Project Covid".. Stock Standard.
                          ..Both with No Airbags. We die like real Men

                          Comment

                          • chippy4x4
                            Senior Member
                            • Apr 2009
                            • 320
                            • adelaide

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Richyd View Post
                            Thanks all!
                            Not feeling so great about my decision with the nalothane bushes now (I'm sure they'll be fine). Some of my bushes currently are almost completely gone, so anything has got to be better

                            Can anyone confirm if there is any type of strut mount for the rear shocks that I should replace (I'm replacing the front ones obviously)?

                            I assume no one in know's of a good 'how to' for replacing the bushes either?
                            Don't get disheartened about the type of bushes you have. At the end of the day they will work, and as you said "have to be better than what is there now". Keep an eye on the metal around the bushes and make sure that fatigue cracks don't start. If they do fix them as soon as possible. I have "beefed up" quite a few arms over the years, and anybody who can arc weld would be capable of doing this. If you do find a crack drill a hole at the end, about 3mm drill bit, and then weld the crack. If you can, run some stitch welds as well, you would be amazed how much strength they add. As I said before, the problem with polyurathane bushes is that they have little give when it comes to twisting. But this all depends on your driving and where you drive. ALL IS NOT LOST GRASSHOPPER

                            Comment

                            • chippy4x4
                              Senior Member
                              • Apr 2009
                              • 320
                              • adelaide

                              #15
                              Originally posted by gemster View Post
                              Gee I hope you are not right needing a 20ton press old jack... I just bought a 12ton for the purpose of doing bushes...

                              We will see what happens...

                              Gemster...
                              A good trick is to start a few weeks before with the penetrating spray, that way they have a better chance of coming out with a 12 ton press. Believe it or not eucalyptus oil is a really good penetrating fluid, a couple of drops every few days and even stubborn siezed bolts move

                              Comment

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