OK fellows, last week I was asking your opinion on which 4WD to buy... and I thank you for the general response. I will pick up my "new" NP Pajero 2004 (195,000 Kms) Diesel turbo intercooler on thursday (after I depart with $ 19 Grandes) and in my mind is quickly change every fluid on the vehicle, I know is due for a service right now and here comes my question: what sort of oil should I use?? A friend of mine insisted in sinthetic would be he right? I like to do the best I can to preserve the life of the engine as I suspect the previous owner somehow didn't follow the service book to the teeth. I 've also done a RACQ inspection wich returned excellent readings and the vehicle looks pristine and drives really well. Please could anybody guive me some tips in best oil??. Also I was given a Quote by the local ARB to put a lift kit which comprises of new coils and "Old Man Emu" for $1800 (is it worthy?) any way, I think I just behaving like a kid with a new toy am I? Thank you all. Regards Clem Oliver
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Finally bought a NP 2004, what do I do now??
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Congrats on the purchase.
Having done numerous mods over the last few years and frequenting the forum I would personally:
- visit http://www.bushskinz4x4.com.au/ and have a look at his suspension options, bash plates & side steps. Send them an email and discuss what you want from the suspension. I went with Bilstein and Lovells and am very happy with it - I fitted myself but you could get someone to fit locally. I had OME on a previous vehicle and wasn't impressed for the price.
+ 4 wheel alignment needed once done.
- check the valve clearances & whilst at it check / replace the timing chain guide (many threads on this on the forum)
- If towing, research the companion shafts issue on the forum with the rear diff and consider correcting that
- check for rust on the top of the rear door frames
- Tyres of course
- Dual battery - mine is a simple setup with AGM Battery with Redarc isolator, plenty of other option around.
- If you don't need 7 seats then remove the rear, wrap in a blanket and chuck in the shed. Store ropes, tools, straps etc etc under the rear floor, I cut a piece of carpet for everything to sit on
- Cargo barrier perhaps..
- Snorkel perhaps.. Ebay units are good apparently, mine is TJM
Plenty more I guess, depends what you are planning & the budget..
Good luck.2015 NX, ARB Bullbar, Bilstein / Lovells HD Front and Kings SP Rear, Polyairs, 17" NP Exceed wheels, D697 LT265/65/17, STEDI Cree 24" 120Watt light bar, Tracklander 2100 Roof Cage, Bushskinz side steps and bash plates, 200AH of Batts under rear floor via Redarc 40 Amp, cargo barrier with custom rear shelf up high, TC mod, EGR mod, catch can, iPhone4 with OBD app, USB ports in all 3 rows, custom storage in rear passenger guard.
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To answer the oil question (or at least give my opinion - when talking oils there are hundreds of opinions): The DID pre common-rail does not particularly "need" synthetic oil. A good 10W40 diesel mineral oil will be fine and change it at 7,500km intervals if you want to be nice to it. Personally I use Delo 400 Gold in 20L drums purchased from the local Caltex fuel distributor yard (not a servo - the place that supplies the servos). About $96 a drum last time I stocked up.
You could possibly run a synthetic oil in the rear diff. If yours is pre-traction control it will have a Torsen LSD but note that it does not need LSD oil as it does not have friction plates. Follow the oil specifications in the handbook - NOT the online "lube guides", most of which are wrong for this vehicle (all the sites draw from one database of specifications). An LSD oil wont hurt it but it isn't what is required.
Is it a manual or auto? If Manual you must run VMX80-M (make sure of the "-M", there is one without) to avoid syncro baulk. The -M is for mitsubishi. Even the Toyota crowd run it in the 80 and 100 series. You can run that in the transfer too. If an Auto, long time wisdom here is to run nothing but MM branded transmission fluid to avoid problems with shudder in the torque convertor lockup. It's expensive, and if you do a proper flush you will need lots of it.
Don't forget the coolant.
And as suggested above, valve clearances and a new upper timing chain guide should be done ASAP. The guide is all of about $30 and once the cover is off to do the clearances takes no time to swap. Change it whether they say it needs it or not.
Id also suggest not going to ARB for the suspension. Lovells / Billestiens seems to be the winning combination - PM Pearcie for a quote and yeah - get the bash plates while you are at it.
Lastly - enjoy!
Pat2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4
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As previous posts....and....
Check for an oil weep at your oil pressure sensor(on the engine block and hidden by the turbo)...a cheap fix...and thats about it...
Drive and enjoy...
DiD3.2 275,000kms
Gas Gas 300EC Ohlins
Yamaha XTZ660Z Ténéré Injection 75,000kms
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Some great responses from the guys above. I don't really have much more to add.
I agree with Pat, 7500km oil changes are the go (15000 is too long) and no need for synthetic oil. I am using Mobil Delvac MX, which is a heavy duty truck oil like the Delo that Pat is using. $99 for a 20L drum from a distributor here in Adelaide.
Delo & Delvac both seem to be held in very high regard as good oils and they are cheap to buy in 20L drums from a distributor. So you are buying a good oil and also saving money compared to buying oil retail in 5L bottles. It's a win-win situation.
Filters is your call. I am using genuine, either the Mitsi Value parts VS000419 which is around $30 to $35 or last time I bought a couple of proper mitsubishi 1230A046 filters because the guy at the dealer was nice enough to give me trade discount - approx $41 each. Is there any real difference between the value parts and regular genuine filters besides price? Who knows......
Change the filter every time you change the oil.
Enjoy your new Paj!
Cheers, Dan.2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer!
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I was cleaning out under the rear floor of mine to get something that of course was underneath everything, to give you some ideas, this is what I have under there:
- snow chains (not for snow - for emergencies, I don't have winch - never used in 10 years)
- fire extinguisher (probably should be mounted somewhere)
- windscreen washer detergent
- windscreen cleaner (squeegee or whatever you call them)
- big spike for the ground and chain for the dogs
- many tie down straps and stretchy straps
- picnic rug
- 12V rattle gun
- socket set
- toolbag
- multimeter
- jumper leads
- extension leads for 12V system
- 12V compressor - portable
- rags & towel
Under the seats are all our rain jackets & a block of redgum for jacking
Hanging up high on the cargo barrier is a bag with all our gloves, beanies, hats, warm jackets for the kids etc.
Back door - small bag with toilet paper rolls, garbage bags, paper towel, plastic bags etc. In the small pocket in the back door is a big paint brush - we use for getting sand off legs & feet at the beach.
Amazing how much stuff you can pack away in a Pajero!
Something else I thought of that I had problems with - the back door handle. Gets dust inside the mechanism and jams up, in some cases you can't open the door. If you have problems or want to be proactive search 'back door' on the forum and you will find a few threads including one where I modified mine so that I would never have a problem again.2015 NX, ARB Bullbar, Bilstein / Lovells HD Front and Kings SP Rear, Polyairs, 17" NP Exceed wheels, D697 LT265/65/17, STEDI Cree 24" 120Watt light bar, Tracklander 2100 Roof Cage, Bushskinz side steps and bash plates, 200AH of Batts under rear floor via Redarc 40 Amp, cargo barrier with custom rear shelf up high, TC mod, EGR mod, catch can, iPhone4 with OBD app, USB ports in all 3 rows, custom storage in rear passenger guard.
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All of the above then go and get it dirty, they love being dirty...MY05 NP DiD Auto Platinum. Custom scratches. ARB bar & 12000lbs winch. Maxxis Bighorns. BushSkinz Bash plates & slidders. TJM auto guard. Gear box, trans & diff breathers. Rhino racks & Pod. Awning with LED. Dual batteries. HID Narva 225's. Airtec snorkel. 2" Lovell/Bilstein lift. GME TX3500. Wetseat covers. Pioneer BT deck. Cargo barrier. Beaudesert exhaust. Rear storage & CF80. ARB onboard air. NS 18s for the black top, 80L LRA tank. HPD Catch Can. HPD Intercooler.
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Originally posted by Clem View PostOK fellows, last week I was asking your opinion on which 4WD to buy... and I thank you for the general response. I will pick up my "new" NP Pajero 2004 (195,000 Kms) Diesel turbo intercooler on thursday (after I depart with $ 19 Grandes) and in my mind is quickly change every fluid on the vehicle, I know is due for a service right now and here comes my question: what sort of oil should I use?? A friend of mine insisted in sinthetic would be he right? I like to do the best I can to preserve the life of the engine as I suspect the previous owner somehow didn't follow the service book to the teeth. I 've also done a RACQ inspection wich returned excellent readings and the vehicle looks pristine and drives really well. Please could anybody guive me some tips in best oil??. Also I was given a Quote by the local ARB to put a lift kit which comprises of new coils and "Old Man Emu" for $1800 (is it worthy?) any way, I think I just behaving like a kid with a new toy am I? Thank you all. Regards Clem Oliver
Congrats on the new purchase.
I've used Penrite HPR15 Diesel oil since i bought mine 3 years ago and i use these Wesfil filters from a regular supplier on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PAJERO-NM-T-DIESEL-4CYL-3-2L-FILTER-KIT-5-02-10-02-/140526554381?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item 20b8090d0d
If you do any towing i would suggest along with your liftkit to install some Polyair Air bags.
They help firm the ride with a load.
As always it's up to the owner to go with what they think's best and these are what i use.
Cheers Glenn2003 NP 3.2 DI-D LWB 5spd-DVD Entertainment unit-Narva 175 blue's-Side Steps-Uniden UHO15SX-Garmin GPS16 and Oziexplorer-ARB On Board air-Polyairs-Airtek Snorkel-Khumo KL78's-Headrest DVD players- Ironman Lift kit- 12000lb winch- Dual Batteries - Redarc isolator-Bushskinz intercooler guard.
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I looked at buying that Wesfil filter kit (air, oil & fuel) from eBay at the last service but actually got the same brand filters at the local Bursons for $72 off the shelf. It might be worth checking with a Bursons / Repco if you have them nearby.
Pat2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4
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Thank you all for the imput, I am impress to have finded a nice banch of fellows that are only to happy to share their knowledge. I think I will use semisinthetic oil (Valvoline perhups?) and check the alternatives in regards of suspensions available. How can I catch up with you guys just to chat a little more???? Thank you again Clem Oliver"LOVE MY CAR"
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Some good replies there mate, first thing as a few have said is to do the top chain guide that is a must! And the valve clearances at the same time 2 - 3 hrs max. There are some very good guides on this forum for this.
Take the cabin filter out it's cradle (behind glove box) and wack it off a wall, makes a big difference to fan. Not Many folks clean or change them.2003 DID Shogun, 10mm Alloy bash plates, OME suspension, sliders, Set of BFG AT 265x70x16 & 235x70x16 Insa Special Track Extreme muds.
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Originally posted by Davie View PostSome good replies there mate, take the cabin filter out it's cradle (behind glove box) and wack it off a wall, makes a big difference to fan. Not Many folks clean or change them.2004 Pajero Exceed 3.2 DiD auto
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I have an NM 2003, but would have thought the pollen/ cabin filter was in the the other models as well. Open bottom glove box and disconnect the stay arm (it has a clip that turns to let the arm pop out) Behind the glove box there should be a White plastic box with i think a couple of screws facing you. Take out the screws and pull the cover off, the filter pulls out and is easily cleaned.
But check with another owner to see if it has the filter before you waste your time2003 DID Shogun, 10mm Alloy bash plates, OME suspension, sliders, Set of BFG AT 265x70x16 & 235x70x16 Insa Special Track Extreme muds.
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Originally posted by psproule View PostUnless I'm mistaken there is no cabin air filter in an aussie delivered NP. I think they started in the NS.Originally posted by Davie View PostI have an NM 2003, but would have thought the pollen/ cabin filter was in the the other models as well. Open bottom glove box and disconnect the stay arm (it has a clip that turns to let the arm pop out) Behind the glove box there should be a White plastic box with i think a couple of screws facing you. Take out the screws and pull the cover off, the filter pulls out and is easily cleaned.
But check with another owner to see if it has the filter before you waste your time
This is an MY06 NP DID. My 01 NM was the same. Like I said, I dont think we got them until the NS. I'd suggest the rectangular shape is where it's meant to go. Possibly it could be retrofitted if the bracket on the left was moved and the shape cut out carefully. You can buy the filters on ebay but they dont have the plastic cradle required to hold them.
Pat2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4
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