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Techniques Winching - Recoveries - Chainsaw Safety - Proper aproach to 4wding etc

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  #11  
Old 06-01-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauno View Post
While Staunís are expensive they are handy. By the time you walk around and put one on the 4th tyre you only have to wait a minute or so then the first finishes. Then you just walk around and take them off, put the cap back on as they are all done in the same time. I canít see why some people trash them so much
Mine weren't particularly precise - lucky to be within a couple of psi of the original set point.
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  #12  
Old 06-01-19
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I have used Staun for over 10 years, and although not super accurate, I set them a few psi higher than desired then it only takes another 30 seconds per tyre to drop the pressures the desired level. Quicker, more compact and lighter than an ARB type deflator. I also do not like the valve being removed during the deflation process.

OJ.
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Last edited by old Jack; 07-01-19 at 07:09 AM. Reason: auto spell correct corrected!
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  #13  
Old 07-01-19
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Talking about fear, does anyone have a real world example of an issue with a deflation by removing the valve core? as long as there is no dirt ingress, I cant see the issue.

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  #14  
Old 07-01-19
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I go old school, use car key to deflate the tyres. Then check the preassure with the gauge.
Do not like removing the valve.
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  #15  
Old 07-01-19
NJV6 NJV6 is offline
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What is so bad with removing the valve? Done it for years. Quick and easy.
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  #16  
Old 07-01-19
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More chance of losing the valve core I suppose if you take it out.
Also a valve body is not really designed for the core to be screwed in and out too many times I suppose.
Plus the more you mess with it the more likely it is to leak.

They are my thoughts..
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  #17  
Old 07-01-19
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Most times I use one of the ARB type tyre deflators (mine's from Supacentre) which removes the valve. Many others in our 4WD club use them too. I've never seen or even heard of someone losing a valve (it's not really possible using one of these deflators) or cross threading, or valves starting to leak because they've been removed and replaced.

Sometimes I just use the pin on the back of my digital tyre gauge to depress the valve. Whilst the air doesn't escape as quickly, you save time not having to screw the deflator on, screw the valve out, then back in, then remove the deflator. One of these days I should time the two processes to get an accurate idea of which is quicker and by how much. I have a trip planned in a couple of weeks. I reckon I will do it then.
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Last edited by Merts; 07-01-19 at 10:50 AM. Reason: typo
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  #18  
Old 07-01-19
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On a related topic, I remember as a young bloke being castigated by my tyre dealer at the time for having el-cheapo plastic valve caps.

Unlile the metal valve caps, plastic valve caps do not have an integral seal as a backup in case the valve leaks.

Worse still is to have no valve caps at all, especially in typical 4WD environments where mud and dust can clog the valve &/or compromise the sealing of the valve seat.

Finally, take care with the gear that you are using with your valves. Air chucks, airlines and couplings, deflators, gauges etc should be kept free of dust and dirt and stored appropriately.
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  #19  
Old 07-01-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingbrown View Post
On a related topic, I remember as a young bloke being castigated by my tyre dealer at the time for having el-cheapo plastic valve caps.

Unlile the metal valve caps, plastic valve caps do not have an integral seal as a backup in case the valve leaks.

Worse still is to have no valve caps at all, especially in typical 4WD environments where mud and dust can clog the valve &/or compromise the sealing of the valve seat.

Finally, take care with the gear that you are using with your valves. Air chucks, airlines and couplings, deflators, gauges etc should be kept free of dust and dirt and stored appropriately.

Need to be really careful using metal valve caps unless the cap is brass as aluminum or steel caps can easily and quickly corrode on tight an you do not have to do a lot of beach driving for this to happen !

Corrosion is galvanic and caused by dissimilar metals of the valve stem and the cap combined with moisture.

There are 2 sorts of plastic caps, the soft type that do not have and internal seal and these should not be used. The hard plastic valve stem caps that have an internal seal are the best and these are what comes standard with new valve stems which should always be changed when fitting new tyres.


OJ.
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  #20  
Old 07-01-19
Kingbrown Kingbrown is offline
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Good points there OJ.

I've removed a bit of the silvery coating on one of a handful of identical metal caps and the substrate has a brassy colour. There's nil attraction to a rare earth magnet so they're definitely non-ferrous. Weight of each item suggests that they're not aluminium.

Inside my unused hard plastic caps there is a flat landing/seat that is part of the moulding and it looks to be fairly uneven. These caps would need to be twisted on tightly to achieve a good seal.
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