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Techniques Winching - Recoveries - Chainsaw Safety - Proper aproach to 4wding etc

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  #21  
Old 17-11-16
insect_eater insect_eater is offline
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Thanks Ent some good suggestions there. I'll give the 'idle up in first' a try to see how I go.

I've just looked up some final drive ratios for the 80 series landcruisers - which was what I was supposed to be driving like in the training

1L = 46.6, 2L = 25.19, 3L = 15.23

So, as OJ says - compared to the Pajero of 1L = 31.15, and 2L = 17.7, second in the Pajero is closer to 3rd in the 80 series.

The 80 series also makes good torque from less than 1200, versus the Pajero from around 1800.
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  #22  
Old 18-11-16
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For what it is worth, earlier this year, my wife & I went out to Blue Rag. We were there alone, not another vehicle anywhere near us. I had highway tyres only. No place for heroics - I just let my NW manual idle its way up and down the steep and shaly hills in first gear, low range. Barely touched the brakes. The car did the job brilliantly. OK - the track wasn't too bad - I think I only lifted a front wheel once, but it was a loose surface and we had no porblems at all. By the way, Blue Rag is an awesome place to go to....
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  #23  
Old 18-11-16
pajeromack pajeromack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ent View Post
The transfer gearing is too high and suggesting second just stupid. I have fitted a 2.7 to replace the 1.95 transfer gear and the Challenger is now very good at idling up steep climbs. One thing I finally learnt was let it idle as if you try feathering the throttle the electronics get confused so when you lift off it stalls. It is almost that the Challenger has an anti stall feature on idle and I find this even in high range low.
Yeah it seems like that instructor did not have a good understanding of gear ratios, and how they vary between manufacturers.

If you do this sort of stuff a lot you can fit custom reduction gears. These gears reduce wheel speed and increase wheel torque for a given engine RPM. It would certainly make these hill climbs a lot easier. Bear in mind though that reduction gears will increase torque through the driveline which could potentially exceed the design envelope. You still have to take care, lest you snap CVs or shear driveshafts. Biggest problem is that these sort of gears are normally very pricey at around $3k fitted.

Automatic vehicles have the here advantage because the torque converter provides further torque multiplication without risk of burning up a clutch.

Fortunately Mitsubishi have finally gotten the message and fitted a 2.566 low range as standard in the new Pajero Sport. Doesn't help us here though.
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  #24  
Old 21-11-16
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I am rather curious with the Pajero Sport if Mitsubishi upgraded the drive line components after the lower transfer gear as with the eight speed auto and improved motor plus now lower transfer gear they will be feeding through to the CVs and axles about the same amount of torque, if not more, as my 2.7 five speed PC manual will be doing.

I tend to take things easy as idling up at 700rpm means the motor is long way short of the 400nm torque at 1500-1800rpm.

The CVs definitely do not enjoy having the droop bump stops removed based on the "consumerable" CVs on mega raised Tritons with the droop stops removed.

I run standard tune on the motor but reading suggest the 2.5HP can have significantly more torque dragged out of it, but generally at 2000rpm plus. I would imagine a Pajero/Triton/Challenger in high state of tune with large lift would blow out of the water the factory design envelope with 3.15 transfer gears but generally they appear to hand together ok if treated with respect.

As written curious is the Sport has been beefed up or Mitsubishi has figured CVs at factory drive angles plus axles are up to the job.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-17
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Just re-read this thread after a trip up to Walhalla area last weekend. We have an NS manual and I was there with an MN triton Auto.

I had similar experiences to Ent in that I found 2nd low not low enough for steeper climbs however felt that 1st low was far easier to seemingly break traction - then I'd get traction control kicking in - had some serious beeping going on a few times.

By comparison on a few spots where I felt I struggled the Triton seemed to have no issues. That said, I also think I felt I struggled because there was a lot of traction control kicking in (Triton seemed to not use as much traction control). The Paj still climbed up and made those sections. On at least 2 of them I was first up and had to adjust my line and start over (also not fun in a manual).

Maybe I just need to get used to allowing traction control do its thing and be more sensitive on the throttle....

Cheers,
James
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  #26  
Old 20-01-18
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Was checking out some vids on YouTube and found this with these guys in on the action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUiBC64mP9U
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  #27  
Old 20-01-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickle View Post
Was checking out some vids on YouTube and found this with these guys in on the action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUiBC64mP9U
Thats some of the Adelaide Guys, M-&-M, Njswb and Twisted 32.

OJ.
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  #28  
Old 20-01-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Thats some of the Adelaide Guys, M-&-M, Njswb and Twisted 32.

OJ.
Yeah, buggers are everywhere
Dave
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  #29  
Old 20-01-18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pickle View Post
Yeah, buggers are everywhere
Dave
Yep - back again next week.

Can't help thinking another year of wear & tear will make that significantly more challenging.
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