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Techniques Winching - Recoveries - Chainsaw Safety - Proper aproach to 4wding etc

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  #21  
Old 18-03-17
Peterng Peterng is offline
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Ok, I'm going to get howled down like the "Hounds of the Basketvilles"..over this, but here goes...

I always add the trailer weight to the loaded vehicle weight..
So if you have a trailer ATM at 1200kg and with say 400kg of stuff loaded..GTM..about 1600kg.
Then add the vehicle..Tare weight...2020kg...plus the camping/ pax and stuff...500kg...total..2500kg+
So really the total your 3.2 diesel is pulling and your brakes are stopping is 4100kg.
How do I drive whilst pulling weight
...3 ways...
...by the seat of my arse,
...the sight of my eyes
and the hearing of my ears..
Seat of arse...you can feel..believe it or not the movement of the vehicle and the trailer as one, the pitch and the yawn as they move over the road surface, braking and accelerating.
You can feel vibrations..touch the gear lever periodically, hold the steering wheel briefly between 2 fingers..
Unhappy machinery will always let you know whats going on...
Sight of my eyes...using your mirrors, rev counter, dash dials, traffic surrounding the vehicle, movement and speed of the traffic, road viariations..climate..level of the vehicle bonnet..which way is the vegetation blowing..wildlife...signs and signals.
The hearing of my ears..the noise from the engine..freewheeling...under load...drivetraine noises..road nose..tyre noise and coupling noise...

Combine these 3 aspects properly... nothing will even come close to the human skill...and it is a true skill...
It means...
Always...always...if with a autobox...use manual mode to 4th...5th is never...never a pulling gear with weight behind you...unless you a pulling a dickhead on a skate board!!!!!
Know the max torque between which rev's for your vehicle and to which gear..
This is the beautiful dance that you will do when you are pulling weight..rev's, tongue...gears...
It will mean the complete disengagement of the auto cruise control...
The best auto cruise control is your eye coordination with your right foot...especially when pulling weight..
Never...never use "D" dumb mode...even on the flat...pulling weight puts stress on your gear box..remember the gross weight...the vehicle and the trailer...that is what you gearbox is pulling up hill and down dale.

So..here is the clincher..

The best optimum SAFE SPEED is 80Kph is when you are pulling any weight..
You push to 100kph...well its your risk..
...why...???

Reaction times, braking distances and things going tits up always happen exponetionially and remember..there's other lives in the vehicle with you!

So...vehicle distances...for a vehicle pulling weight...4500kg...at 80Kph. 1 car length for every 10kph...which means about 8 car lengths forward...about 80mtrs conservative distance.

Me personally..when I get a rush to my head...85kph..then drop it even more for changes of road surface conditions, weather conditions, vehicle problems and surrounding Traffic!

So planning is paramount...plan travel distances, 2 hours breaks and swapping of drivers...your passengers need a break as well...which means fellas...get your better half driving with weight as well and if you have a young adult above "P"s...get them involved as well...
Spread the experience I say...

I'm sorry to be a wet blanket..but
I've been to too many unnecessary vehicle accidents involving weight (trailers and caravans) to count, as a SES volunteer in my previous life to be kind..
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  #22  
Old 19-03-17
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Dicko1 Dicko1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterng View Post
Ok, I'm going to get howled down like the "Hounds of the Basketvilles"..over this, but here goes...

I always add the trailer weight to the loaded vehicle weight..
So if you have a trailer ATM at 1200kg and with say 400kg of stuff loaded..GTM..about 1600kg.
Then add the vehicle..Tare weight...2020kg...plus the camping/ pax and stuff...500kg...total..2500kg+
So really the total your 3.2 diesel is pulling and your brakes are stopping is 4100kg.
How do I drive whilst pulling weight
...3 ways...
...by the seat of my arse,
...the sight of my eyes
and the hearing of my ears..
Seat of arse...you can feel..believe it or not the movement of the vehicle and the trailer as one, the pitch and the yawn as they move over the road surface, braking and accelerating.
You can feel vibrations..touch the gear lever periodically, hold the steering wheel briefly between 2 fingers..
Unhappy machinery will always let you know whats going on...
Sight of my eyes...using your mirrors, rev counter, dash dials, traffic surrounding the vehicle, movement and speed of the traffic, road viariations..climate..level of the vehicle bonnet..which way is the vegetation blowing..wildlife...signs and signals.
The hearing of my ears..the noise from the engine..freewheeling...under load...drivetraine noises..road nose..tyre noise and coupling noise...

Combine these 3 aspects properly... nothing will even come close to the human skill...and it is a true skill...
It means...
Always...always...if with a autobox...use manual mode to 4th...5th is never...never a pulling gear with weight behind you...unless you a pulling a dickhead on a skate board!!!!!
Know the max torque between which rev's for your vehicle and to which gear..
This is the beautiful dance that you will do when you are pulling weight..rev's, tongue...gears...
It will mean the complete disengagement of the auto cruise control...
The best auto cruise control is your eye coordination with your right foot...especially when pulling weight..
Never...never use "D" dumb mode...even on the flat...pulling weight puts stress on your gear box..remember the gross weight...the vehicle and the trailer...that is what you gearbox is pulling up hill and down dale.

So..here is the clincher..

The best optimum SAFE SPEED is 80Kph is when you are pulling any weight..
You push to 100kph...well its your risk..
...why...???

Reaction times, braking distances and things going tits up always happen exponetionially and remember..there's other lives in the vehicle with you!

So...vehicle distances...for a vehicle pulling weight...4500kg...at 80Kph. 1 car length for every 10kph...which means about 8 car lengths forward...about 80mtrs conservative distance.

Me personally..when I get a rush to my head...85kph..then drop it even more for changes of road surface conditions, weather conditions, vehicle problems and surrounding Traffic!

So planning is paramount...plan travel distances, 2 hours breaks and swapping of drivers...your passengers need a break as well...which means fellas...get your better half driving with weight as well and if you have a young adult above "P"s...get them involved as well...
Spread the experience I say...

I'm sorry to be a wet blanket..but
I've been to too many unnecessary vehicle accidents involving weight (trailers and caravans) to count, as a SES volunteer in my previous life to be kind..
Pete...sitting on 80kph is , especially on a highway, is just plain stupid. You will be slowing down traffic flow uneccessarily and agitating people people who just want to travel in a relaxed manner close to and safely to the speed limit. Do you really sit on 80kph on the Stuart Hwy?. That in my opinion is dangerous. Going by your theory it would mean road trains should be doing about 30kph to allow for the weight. Your vehicle is equipped with excellent brakes and your trailer has brakes as well. How you maintain the trailers brakes is up to you. Me...mine get serviced , by myself, every 6 months...wheels off, shoes cleaned and adjusted and bearings greased. When towing on the flat on highways I will often put into 5th drive, and sit on 100kph. You know by the feel of the car and the ultragauge temp readout if this is suitable. 9 out of 10 times it is. Inclines or twists/bends that sees the torque converter slipping and I,m into 4th/sports. Thats towing about 1200kg. No problems at all.
All accidents involve weight. I would suggest its more the handling , braking abilities and driver ability of caravans/trailers that is at fault. When towing a van the 4 second rule should apply because of the extra weight.

I feel safer and less stressed sitting on 95-100kph on the highway, whilst towing, than sitting on 80kph and knowing I am holding a lot of traffic up and potentially frustrating drivers to take a chance overtaking where they normally wouldn,t, and cause an accident. Like most drivers I find 80kph on a highway just ridiculous unless you have a mechnical issue where you have to nurse the car to your next stop. I,ve based mu opinion on the fact that I have drivenmany hundreds of thousands of kilometers around Australia, have had a HC licence for 40 years, have had accidents, ride a motorcycle (this alone tends to make you a safer driver on the road..proven fact) and after 45 years of driving/riding I reckon I,ve learnt a thing or two...hopefully!
IMHO..

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  #23  
Old 19-03-17
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Alex86 Alex86 is offline
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I've got no problem with anyone sitting on 80....... As long as you don't hold anyone up!

Sit on 80, then if anything comes up behind you speed up till you get to a passing opportunity and let them round, then you can slow down again.

To me that's called courtesy.
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  #24  
Old 19-03-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex86 View Post
I've got no problem with anyone sitting on 80....... As long as you don't hold anyone up!

Sit on 80, then if anything comes up behind you speed up till you get to a passing opportunity and let them round, then you can slow down again.

To me that's called courtesy.
I like the way you think, and that would be nice. But it generally seems to work as "... speed up at a passing opportunity so they can't get round, then slow down again."
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  #25  
Old 19-03-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterng View Post
So really the total your 3.2 diesel is pulling and your brakes are stopping is 4100kg.
Technicality, but at 4100kg you would also have trailer brakes.

Our Pajeros are rated to GVM (3030 for a Gen 4?) plus 750kg unbraked trailer. They won't "stop on a dime" with that load, but the brakes should stop that GCM (37xx kg) without undue strain. Above that, the trailer brakes should be contributing; if they're not, the combination isn't roadworthy.
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Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #26  
Old 19-03-17
Nxssph Nxssph is offline
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+1 Do the signed speed limit when safe
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  #27  
Old 20-03-17
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Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
I like the way you think, and that would be nice. But it generally seems to work as "... speed up at a passing opportunity so they can't get round, then slow down again."
Had plenty of that happening on the way to Victor Harbor recently. Old guy towing a large van in his Territory doing 80 in 100 zone and then when a straight section comes up with overtaking opportunity, he speeds up to 100 instead of staying at 80 to make it safe for others to overtake at a safe speed.
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  #28  
Old 20-03-17
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Im sure alot of people wont agree with me, but this is how I tow:
5th gear 2H, driving the speed limit, 100 or 110km/h. I drop to 4th before any inclines to keep my speed up.
I have tried 4th and 4H but fuel consumption went through the roof.
Maybe its different because mine is a petrol version but this works for me.
My van is about 2ton loaded with some stuff on the roof also of the paj. I usally average about 20ltr/100km.
Anyway, just wanted to put it out there
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  #29  
Old 20-03-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vladguan View Post
Had plenty of that happening on the way to Victor Harbor recently. Old guy towing a large van in his Territory doing 80 in 100 zone and then when a straight section comes up with overtaking opportunity, he speeds up to 100 instead of staying at 80 to make it safe for others to overtake at a safe speed.
Yep...see em alll the time. These are the bastards that need a whack on the head to put their brain into place. .Just plain dangerous and self centred. Shouldnt be on the road.
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  #30  
Old 20-03-17
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Time for my go. I was pretty sick of towing in 4th all the time, and the auto not locking up in 5th (or in reality unlocking at the slightest bump in the road, change in road surface, truck driving past etc.). So I decided to put in a lock up switch, and being a lazy sod, wasn't keen on having to lock and unlock it manually, or remembering to do so. So I approached Richards Auto Electrical in Murray Bridge, as they do the lockup kit for the 100 and 200 series cruisers. Seeing how the NT onwards has the Aisin box, same as the 100 series I thought it may be worth while.

Stefan was happy to give it a go using the Wholesale Autos lock up switch, with his speed sensor switch controlling the locking and unlocking.

Being the first, it took best part of a day to fit including a couple of hours trouble shooting the speed sensor wire. The kit works well, in Auto mode it will engage at about 80 on speedo, and disengage at 70. In manual mode it will engage at 40, disengage at 30 (its called manual mode cause you have to select a lower gear or its very unpleasant).

I've used it for a trip to the Pilbara (13500 km) and NSW / Victoria (about 5000 km). Much more relaxed having the auto lock up, I usually drive in sports manual mode and keep an eye on the engine load via scan guage. If the load is too high I drop back to 4th (or whatever is appropriate). Auto stays locked up, auto temps are always under 90. But if the terrain is benign I have driven it in Drive and just kept an eye on the load.

The only issue still not resolved (mainly cause I haven't had time to go back to Stefan) is the dash info display has lost speed and related data (so fuel consumption). We got the speed from the speed sensor wire going to the info display, and found that it didn't like the little bit of interference from the switch. Even putting a diode in didn't help.

I'm pretty happy with it, it makes towing easier, and helps manage fuel consumption.

Richard
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