Front wheel bearings

[nifty]

The big castle nut on the end of the axle is supposed to be around 200Nm. I've got a Warren & Brown torque wrench that only goes to up 185Nm., so I do it up to that then use a big breaker bar to just turn the nut enough for the next hole to line up for the split pin.

Hope it all goes well.

Cheers

Geoff

Hi Geoff,
Hi,
I have an 04 NP diesel and need some assistance.

Just read your post on tightening the front hub nut to 200nm. I have a Haynes manual that doesn't have the torque settings for 99 and later ( or at least its confusing).

Under the "98 and earlier" section , it says to "tighten up to 200nm, then fully loosen the nut , and then re-torque to 25nm, then loosen the nut 30-40degrees"

Do you have a manual that will confirm if the NP should be just done up to 200nm and then left as is, or is is like the <98 and needs loosening?

Thinking I have made an error with mine, and really need to confirm the process.


thanks.

EDIT: just looked at the Montero manual that I had downloaded ages ago. It shows 254nm =- 29nm. Doesn't mention loosening off and re-torque to the lower figure either.

[GHendo]

Hi Geoff,
Hi,
I have an 04 NP diesel and need some assistance.
Just read your post on tightening the front hub nut to 200nm. I have a Haynes manual that doesn't have the torque settings for 99 and later ( or at least its confusing).
Under the "98 and earlier" section , it says to "tighten up to 200nm, then fully loosen the nut , and then re-torque to 25nm, then loosen the nut 30-40degrees"
Do you have a manual that will confirm if the NP should be just done up to 200nm and then left as is, or is is like the <98 and needs loosening?
Thinking I have made an error with mine, and really need to confirm the process.

EDIT: just looked at the Montero manual that I had downloaded ages ago. It shows 254nm =- 29nm. Doesn't mention loosening off and re-torque to the lower figure either.

Hi mate,

Yeah, my manual says 255Nm +or- 29Nm. I've never done it quite that tight (probably). I have a Warrent & Brown torque wrench that only goes up to about 190Nm, so what I do is take it up to that, then turn it tighter so that the hole in the axle lines up with the next groove in the castle nut. 200Nm is bloody tight - going tighter than that and I'd start to get worried about stripping the thread on the nut. That's as tight as I've always done them and so far have not had a problem.

Occasionally you get a wrong torque setting printed - I've come across a couple and have stripped threads because I went by what was printed without thinking about it. I now think twice before doing nuts up to really high torque setting.

Geoff

[nifty]

Thanks heaps Geoff. I will re-torque it tonight. This Haynes is pretty ordinary some times.

[craka]

It would appear to me that my front right wheel bearing is shot. Getting a unnerving hum coming from driver side front wheel. Center of right wheel is defintely a lot hotter than left.

It would seem that some of you have been able to manage to get after market bearing/hub assemblies. Would you be able to provide part numbers for hub at places like CBC, keen to stay clear of ebay?



Note: I'm up to 190000+ kms is there anything else worth doing whilst replacing wheel hub/bearing

[craka]

Does anyone know if this CBC part no MC125KIT is the full hub assembly?

[twisted32]

Does anyone know if this CBC part no MC125KIT is the full hub assembly?

I doubt it because their rear kit is only the inner bearing half unfortunately....

[craka]

I doubt it because their rear kit is only the inner bearing half unfortunately....

Hmm looking at parts finder there is the option of a half assembly of full assembly for LWB rear bearings MC266BKIT for half assembly or MC267KIT for full assembly.

The SWB rear hub/bearing looking at the parts finder only comes in half asssmbly MC266AKIT , and the SWB front hub/bearing doesn't specify however the image indicates it is a full assembly. Ah well I've rolled the dice and ordered a pair.


Is there anything else that should be replaced at the same time? This is the first time for me changing bearings myself. I was thinking of replacing rotors as they are probably getting down (will verify).

[craka]

Bearing hubs arrived earlier this week. For the SWB CBC part no MC125KIT it is the the full assembly.


Hoping to have a crack at this weekend.

[GHendo]

Hi Craka

You’ll most like find you’ll have to have the hub pressed out of the knuckle with a hydraulic press – mine were as tight as a fish’s bum. When the new ones go back in, put some anti-seize around the surface where the hub meets the knuckle so they should be easier next time.

Also, if you don’t already know – when reassembling, you must have the wheel off the ground when you tension the big castle nut on the end of the axle – get someone to put their foot on the brake to stop the wheel turning.

Have fun

Geoff

[craka]

Hi Craka

You’ll most like find you’ll have to have the hub pressed out of the knuckle with a hydraulic press – mine were as tight as a fish’s bum. When the new ones go back in, put some anti-seize around the surface where the hub meets the knuckle so they should be easier next time.

Also, if you don’t already know – when reassembling, you must have the wheel off the ground when you tension the big castle nut on the end of the axle – get someone to put their foot on the brake to stop the wheel turning.

Have fun

Geoff

Cheers Geoff, I had noticed a few reports of that, hoping I'm one of the lucky ones and it will knock out, but acknowledge that I may have to do that.
On topic of castle nut, from looking at parts photos, there is the castle nut and than the axle nut beyond that? Will a normal socket fit over the castle nut or do you need a socket specifically cut out for the castle nut?

Thinking about going and buying a 12v impact wrench or air wrench already have a 2hp air compressor.

[GHendo]

... there is the castle nut and than the axle nut beyond that? Will a normal socket fit over the castle nut or do you need a socket specifically cut out for the castle nut?

Hi Craka

Not quite sure what you mean about 2 nuts – the castle nut on the end of the axle is the only one on my NP. A normal socket will fit the castle nut but it is a big bugger – up around the 1” I seem to remember. A rattle gun is great for removing the nut – gets it off without having to have someone on the brake.

When you’re doing it up you really need a torque wrench – as you can see on the diagram it’s up around to 200 lb/ft which is bloody tight. My wrench only goes to about 180 so I do it up to there, then use a breaker-bar to tighten it to the next slot on the nut to allow the cotter-pin to go in.

The castle is marked '2' in the diagram and it is the only one on the end of the axle.

Have fun

Geoff

[erad]

I think that you will find the 'Castle Nut' is actually a pressed tin affair which goes over and locks the 36 mm main nut with the split pin. It comes off easily.

[GHendo]

I think that you will find the 'Castle Nut' is actually a pressed tin affair which goes over and locks the 36 mm main nut with the split pin. It comes off easily.

The bits cut out of the ‘castle nut’ are shaped like the top of a castle wall – hence the name. You line up the cut out bits in the nut with the hole drilled through the axle and insert a cotter-pin (split pin) and this stops the nut from turning. The pressed tin cap on the end is just a cover to stop crap getting in.

Geoff

[craka]

It appears as two pieces on the diagram for NS. Will find out for sure once I've started.

[aussieintas]

Hey Cracka it isnt 2 nuts. There is the castle nut which in the pic from partsouq is 32598 then on top of that is just a metal cover as ghendo states to keep crap out numbered 32509, pic below. The metal cover is what the split pin goes though.

And as Erad states the nut itself is not a castle type itself, its the metal tin cover that is on our pajeros, well certainly an NS.