Front or rear if fitting only one diff locker

[Merts]

They are a bit vague on the instructions. I've never been game to engage or disengage unless I'm stationary.

[NJV6]

You engage and disengage on the move no trouble just try not to do it while one wheel is spinning and the other isn't, 'Bang' is often the result!.
Going downhill as someone mentioned I find the front locker is actually far better at a controlled descent and I use it just as much for down as up. That sudden lurch as it takes off when opposing wheels loose contact with terra firma doesn't exist any more, you need to hold onto the wheel to keep it straight though.
The beauty about the aftermarket lockers whether ARB or elocker is they go in and out instantly so there is no reason not to unlock it for corners.
If I was putting a diff lock in my NT it'd be the front 1st without a doubt going on my experience with the shorty.

[kiwi1973]

You engage and disengage on the move no trouble just try not to do it while one wheel is spinning and the other isn't, 'Bang' is often the result!.
Going downhill as someone mentioned I find the front locker is actually far better at a controlled descent and I use it just as much for down as up. That sudden lurch as it takes off when opposing wheels loose contact with terra firma doesn't exist any more, you need to hold onto the wheel to keep it straight though.
The beauty about the aftermarket lockers whether ARB or elocker is they go in and out instantly so there is no reason not to unlock it for corners.
If I was putting a diff lock in my NT it'd be the front 1st without a doubt going on my experience with the shorty.

Thanks for this - just the sort of information I was seeking! I wasn't aware though that a front locker could be used for descents - presumably only on a relatively straight section? Or is this going to open up a whole new topic of debate.

How do you feel about using a front locker on a deeply rutted extremely muddy track. In such situations steering is usually pretty useless anyway and the muddy ruts act as virtual train tracks so I expect the locker could be left engaged as the track twists and turns?

[P4J3R0]

I was in this situation when setting up the white shadow. Finances only stretched for 1 locker and after much research and debate I figured that I would get a rear one at some point in the future so went with the front first. From all the research and reviews it was the most effective to fit for 4wding with an independent front end.

Real life tells the same story. Front locker changed the car. Lift a wheel and instead of having to power through so the TC would kick in then apply the brakes to give drive to the spinning wheel which has now come back down thanks to momentum and the other wheel is inow in the air spinning.

With the locker in momentum doesn't stop when a wheel lifts, meaning the car goes further, smoother, slower, more controlled. On the odd occasions that a rear wheel lifts both front wheels are driving and pull you through.

As it turned out I got the rear locker a few weeks later as one came up second hand for a bargain price. Life will never be the same once you have had lockers and know how to use them effectively.

[kiwi1973]

Sounds very encouraging indeed and I think I'll really enjoy having a locker, notwithstanding how good the TC has been so far.

I intend to remove the front diff assembly and take it to a diff specialist to have the E Locker installed in the diff. I'll then wire up the electrics/switch when I reinstall the diff assembly in the car. Are there any other parts I should source before taking the diff and locker to the diff specialist - new side bearings perhaps? Not sure if they really need to be replaced. It may be worth my investigating whether the bearing located in the tube that comes off the driver side of the diff assembly is due replacement.

[NJV6]

Hi, yes on slippery tracks the steering is not affected as there is enough slip - and unless the ground is quite uneven 95% of the time both wheels will spin anyway.
If you are climbing on a slippery slope without ruts a word of warning is with the front locked it can sometimes take on a mind of its own as one wheel find a bit of grip the other doesn't!

I would replace the bearings while you are there. I can't imagine the old ones coming off very well to be reused. Also the one on the drivers side at the end of the short driveshaft - I'd replace that one too and the dust seal - much easier while it's out and it's not an expensive part. When they collapse they basically render the vehicle unusable.

[P4J3R0]

Are there any other parts I should source before taking the diff and locker to the diff specialist - new side bearings perhaps? Not sure if they really need to be replaced.

I think in the front ARB asked for a factory bearing as they use one of theirs as well.

Also have them drill and tap the diff housing so you can easily mount an after market breather on it !

[Ent]

Please understand how a Lokker works before considering one. It is intended for part time 4x4 systems so hence fitted on the front as with normal driving the front wheels are disengaged. They can be deadly if used on gravel roads with centre diff locked at speed. For superselect systems I would not even consider one.

I run an ELocker and very happy with it, but they unlock and relock when going from first to reverse. As for ARB air locker, mechanically sound p, but numerous seal failures happen and lot of money or effort replacing a five cent seal. Also, it can happen if the seal fails the diff is pressurised and the diff seals can fail. Yet to meet a long term airlocker driver that has not had problems with seals. Ok I only personally know three but all three have had problems.

I find with all diffs locked DooSo will still turn ok providing enough slip on the surface. Though you can feel the mechanical strain so not a time to use a heavy right foot.

[Drewan]

I had ARB lockers in the Land cruiser and yup there Wife Proof but the @#$$%&##@ seal goes all the time and mine were about $3.50

[kiwi1973]

I run an ELocker and very happy with it, but they unlock and relock when going from first to reverse.

But you can still use the locker in reverse right? Presumably this unlock/relock occurs very quickly?

[kiwi1973]

Also have them drill and tap the diff housing so you can easily mount an after market breather on it !

Curious why you prefer an aftermarket breather? Currently I have simply extended the factory breather.

[NJV6]

Have a look here kiwi, https://youtu.be/a4io_6kavWM and you'll see the lock - unlock at about half way through. It will be fine but I almost think you'd want to be gentle when rocking forward to reverse when in a stuck situation you don't always think of these things!
To me, it's the only downside to this locker as so many ways it's an improvement over ARB.

[P4J3R0]

Curious why you prefer an aftermarket breather? Currently I have simply extended the factory breather.

Bigger line. I used the same line as the airlockers.

My airlockers have been in for 4 years now and no issues so far. I heard about the seals going and was told it happens when the breather is blocked.

[kiwi1973]

Have a look here kiwi, https://youtu.be/a4io_6kavWM and you'll see the lock - unlock at about half way through. It will be fine but I almost think you'd want to be gentle when rocking forward to reverse when in a stuck situation you don't always think of these things!
To me, it's the only downside to this locker as so many ways it's an improvement over ARB.

Thanks. The video made it very clear to understand. I would expect those pins driven by the ramps are just for engagement rather than take any significant loading themselves, but nonetheless can appreciate it would be prudent not to be too aggressive when shuffling forwards/reverse when stuck (which probably applies to the rest of the vehicle too).

[kiwi1973]

Update

To update this thread, I went with the Harrop Eaton E-Locker in the front diff and just today had my first opportunity to have a brief play with it. Too brief of a play to really post much feedback yet, was more for the purpose of my checking that it is actually working correctly. One pleasing thing of note however is that I could still steer satisfactorily enough with the front diff locked. No doubt this will vary depending on the surface I'm on, but I had begun to worry that steering may not be practicably possible at all with a front locker so this was pleasing.

I installed all the electrics and removed and installed the diff assembly, but had a specialist put the new locker in the diff at their workshop. I also supplied him with new side bearings so that this install should be reliable for a long while to come. Something of note, the old diff centre and bearings, with nearly 200,000km's on them, look as if brand new - no visbile signs of wear at all. Mitsubishi engineering is pretty good.