Steam and fluid leak after driving

[munit]

Hi all,

I was driving a bit today, only 60km or so, when I stopped the car and turned off the engine, there was a little steam coming from under the hood, not lots, just a few wisps, I opened it and it appeared to leaking fluid from a hose near the windscreen, and dripping onto a hot part of the engine, causing the steam.

My first though was coolant, but the engine was not overheating, and the coolant level seems fine, the fluid was a sort of rusty colour, and odourless.

It leaked a bit onto the road, around half a pint or so I think.

Could it be the aircon? I've had grief with it before, and it was a warm day, so the A/C was on for most of the drive.

I continued home for a couple of Ks, A/C turned off, and it did not reoccur, no overheating, and the car is running fine.

Any ideas?

Moray

[aussieintas]

Any chance of a pic of the hose that was leaking and its location?

[munit]

Any chance of a pic of the hose that was leaking and its location?

Thanks for your reply, it's stopped steaming/leaking now, and it was difficult to tell where it was coming from so I can't be 100% sure on the hose, but..

It leaked onto the pink arrow bit, and *I think* leaked/hissed from the blue arrow bit (you can tell I know a lot about cars...)

Cheers

Moray

[aussieintas]

Thanks bud belive thats a 3.5lt motor from memory.

The pipe at the blue arrow is the rocker breather. It takes blow by gas from within engine back into the intake and ultimately the combustion cylinder to be re burnt. The gas has oil mist within it too.

The silver metal with pink arrow is heat shield for exhaust manifold and gets very very hot.....so liquid dripping on that would turn to steam.

It may be that the breather pipe became slightly dislodged or has a crack near the end or is partially blocked where it goes into the larger black inlet pipe. These can get gunked up with a mixture of gas, oil mist etc.

You can grab the rocker breather hose and pull it off from the larger black hose and see if there is a blockage going into the larger hose. Don't pull the rocker breather hose from its other end (it attaches to the rocker cover but you may be able to see where it goes to without removing other stuff) as it may be difficult to reconnect.

[chrisfarru]

It is more likely that you're leaking coolant from the hose just below the throttle body, looping around the idle stepper motor. The breather hose would not contain any fluid.

[munit]

It is more likely that you're leaking coolant from the hose just below the throttle body, looping around the idle stepper motor. The breather hose would not contain any fluid.

Yes, this is exactly what it was, my guess at the leak location was incorrect, but the RACV guy found it easy enough...

Taking to the mechanic for a proper investigation and fix.

Cheers

Moray

[chrisfarru]

Just replace the hose mate. You will be raped at the mechanic.

[munit]

Just replace the hose mate. You will be raped at the mechanic.

I've got some oil pressure issues too, light flickering on a off when idling, it's fine when the car is moving, weird.

[erad]

Oil light flickering on and off is probably due to low oil pressure at idle. When you rev the engine the oil pressure will come up and the light will be extinguished. Don't know how many km your engine has, but a change to a heavier oil will temporarily cure the problem.


Remember that the oil pressure is required to circulate the oil throughout the engine so that each bearing gets its fair share of fresh oil. As the shaft revolves in the bearing, it drags oil into the ever decreasing space between the shaft and bearing surface. It then develops a thin film of oil at extremely high pressure. Pressures are really high - MegaPascals - way in excess of the 35 - 50 kPa oil pressure switch setting. As said above, the oil pump is there to circulate the oil and provide fresh, cool oil to each bearing. Once the oil is there, it develops the pressure required to prevent metal to metal contact. The oil pump is driven directly by the engine, and there is nothing you can do apart from a major stripdown to improve the situation. So, whilst having low oil pressure sounds calamitous, it is not the end of the world. In fact, earlier engines did not have any oil pumps (small engines still do not have them) and they survive quite well.


Mitsubishi engines do not operate at very high oil pressures anyway. It is possible that yours is simply at the low end of the scale. The very worst that can happen is that the engine develops a bearing failure. You will hear that when it happens. Unless you are extremely unlucky, it will not explode or anything as drastic as that.


Probably the cause of your low oil pressure is general wear and tear, and the oil pump cannot keep pace at idle speed. I am not suggesting that you totally ignore the problem, but monitor the engine - listen for unusual knocks. Replace the oil with heavier oil and see if the problem goes away. If you are still concerned, fit an oil pressure gauge and see what the pressures are, but you will probably then watch that gauge more than the speedo.


Another cause could be as simple as the electric wire going to the oil pressure switch shorting out to earth as the engine idles. When the engine is loaded up, it will rock over slightly and maybe the wire does not then short to earth.

[munit]

Yes, this is exactly what is happening, it flickers at idle, I give the accelerator the lightest of touches, and the light goes out.

The car has 270k, so high milage.

What weight of oil would you recommend? (Currently using a 15w-40)

Cheers

Moray

Oil light flickering on and off is probably due to low oil pressure at idle. When you rev the engine the oil pressure will come up and the light will be extinguished. Don't know how many km your engine has, but a change to a heavier oil will temporarily cure the problem.


Remember that the oil pressure is required to circulate the oil throughout the engine so that each bearing gets its fair share of fresh oil. As the shaft revolves in the bearing, it drags oil into the ever decreasing space between the shaft and bearing surface. It then develops a thin film of oil at extremely high pressure. Pressures are really high - MegaPascals - way in excess of the 35 - 50 kPa oil pressure switch setting. As said above, the oil pump is there to circulate the oil and provide fresh, cool oil to each bearing. Once the oil is there, it develops the pressure required to prevent metal to metal contact. The oil pump is driven directly by the engine, and there is nothing you can do apart from a major stripdown to improve the situation. So, whilst having low oil pressure sounds calamitous, it is not the end of the world. In fact, earlier engines did not have any oil pumps (small engines still do not have them) and they survive quite well.


Mitsubishi engines do not operate at very high oil pressures anyway. It is possible that yours is simply at the low end of the scale. The very worst that can happen is that the engine develops a bearing failure. You will hear that when it happens. Unless you are extremely unlucky, it will not explode or anything as drastic as that.


Probably the cause of your low oil pressure is general wear and tear, and the oil pump cannot keep pace at idle speed. I am not suggesting that you totally ignore the problem, but monitor the engine - listen for unusual knocks. Replace the oil with heavier oil and see if the problem goes away. If you are still concerned, fit an oil pressure gauge and see what the pressures are, but you will probably then watch that gauge more than the speedo.


Another cause could be as simple as the electric wire going to the oil pressure switch shorting out to earth as the engine idles. When the engine is loaded up, it will rock over slightly and maybe the wire does not then short to earth.

[erad]

How old is the existing oil? If it is "old" ie say 1 yr old, it may have lost its viscosity, and a refill with 15W-40 oil would probably stop the light from coming up. 15W-40 should be more than capable for this oil. 15W-50 oil would be OK to use, or even up to 60 grade (summer is coming on in Melbourne, and the heavier oil may be unsuitable for winter, but for summer it should be OK.


I used to have a Triumph 2000, and it had over 300000 km on it. Right from new, the oil light used to take ages before it would go out when I started it. When cold it could be as long as 1 minute, but eventually the pressure would come up and the light would go out. I didn't rev the engine until I had oil pressure. It worried me, but it lasted all the time I had it with no bearing failures. I assume that your oil light would only come on when the engine is hot and idling slowly.

[munit]

How old is the existing oil? If it is "old" ie say 1 yr old, it may have lost its viscosity, and a refill with 15W-40 oil would probably stop the light from coming up. 15W-40 should be more than capable for this oil. 15W-50 oil would be OK to use, or even up to 60 grade (summer is coming on in Melbourne, and the heavier oil may be unsuitable for winter, but for summer it should be OK.


I used to have a Triumph 2000, and it had over 300000 km on it. Right from new, the oil light used to take ages before it would go out when I started it. When cold it could be as long as 1 minute, but eventually the pressure would come up and the light would go out. I didn't rev the engine until I had oil pressure. It worried me, but it lasted all the time I had it with no bearing failures. I assume that your oil light would only come on when the engine is hot and idling slowly.

Yes, hot engine, and slow idle.

The oil is newish, service about 6 months ago.

Maybe I'll try the 50, see how it goes.

Thanks!

Moray

[gemster]

I use Penrite HPR 15 in 15w-60 and found that is far better and less smoke (valve stem seals) than the 15w-50... being in sunny QLD I have had no issues and change my oil every 5000km or 6mths..... Only issue is the price... Liquid Gold...
Gemster....

[munit]

I use Penrite HPR 15 in 15w-60 and found that is far better and less smoke (valve stem seals) than the 15w-50... being in sunny QLD I have had no issues and change my oil every 5000km or 6mths..... Only issue is the price... Liquid Gold...
Gemster....

That might suit me, my car can give a puff off smoke on take off, which I assume is the valve stem seals.

Cheers!

[gemster]

It was recommended to me and has worked for around 50k... But now im smoking lots... Might be Time for the 3.8 '380' conversion... Mitzy has done over 400k so time for some serious work im afraid... I have been offered a low km(under 200k) 3.5... At a very hard to resist price, so I may go that route as funds are tight ATM... I buy that oil only when its on special for around $36, but normal price is around $50 from Supercheap auto....
Gemster....