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  • jimiw
    Member
    • Jan 2017
    • 150
    • Brisbane

    Brake pad change

    Hi

    How difficult is changing the brake pads and should I leave this up to my mechanic for the relatively low cost (about $150 inc parts) as I’m hesitant to do brakes myself - I’m fine with engine oil and fuel filter etc but doing something to with the brakes worries me a little. Or is it easy and quite foolproof to get wrong?
    2012 PB challenger 4WD, pretty much stock, Munji EGR electronic block, Rhino Rack SX roof platform system, Rhino Rack 2.5m X 2.5m awning.
  • craka
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2057
    • Newcastle (Newie)

    #2
    Really not that difficult to do, but really need to know what you are doing, as you don't want to stuff it up being the brakes and then not being able to stop.

    If you want to do it you should do some more research, by using a gregories or similar and other media sources etc.


    The basics of it is remove the wheel, remove one of the caliper bolts swing it away from the the disc, take the pads outs, remove the shim from the old pads fit to the new pads. Take the cap off the brake fluid and possibly remove some of the fluid at maximum level then using something soft like timber (so as not to mar the pistons) place inside the caliper over the pistons and push back using a G-clamp (some say you shouldn't do this with ABS, I have done it numerous times with no ill effect, otherwise will need to crack bleed nipple and then bleed brakes after). Need to push the pistons back to fit the new pads in as they will be thicker in material. Using brake grease, grease the caliper slide pins. Fit the new pads with the old shims attached to them, orientating the pads in the caliper correctly, swing the caliper back over the disk, rebolt the caliper , tighten to correct torque. Start car, pump brake, noting fluid level and topping if necessary until the brake feel become firm. Obviously once done both front sides of vehicle and put wheels back on, lower vehicle back on ground and cautiously check that you have brake function. Then similarly do for rear. Check the new pad details to see if require bedding after being fitted.
    That is the basics but as said, do more reading elsewhere for better understanding. Do not do if you don't feel confident.

    All stated with no liability taken. Do your due diligence.
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

    Comment

    • Gumboot
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2016
      • 1
      • melbourne

      #3
      Everything craka said. Relatively easy. It's the next step up from what you have been doing. Read a bit about it. Pull a wheel off and have a look. Take your time.

      Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

      Comment

      • whereswes
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2015
        • 395
        • Melbourne, Australia

        #4
        Thoughts on pad change

        What would be a safe brake pad minimum thickness?

        Currently have 4.5mm right rear and 5mm on all others but have a trip to Wonangatta at end of month which will be hard on brakes (particularly with the auto).

        Cheers
        Wes
        2014 Auto PC Challenger, TJM Bar with Centre/Side LED Bars & 12,000lb Winch, Uniden UHF, ARB Rack with single row LED Bar & Awning, Safari Snorkel, Boos Bash Plates, 265-75R16 BFG KM2s, 100AH AGM Battery and Redarc DC-DC to power Waeco, Custom rear interior, HR Towbar, Combo suspension (Lovells front/ARB rear), Brown Davis LR tank, Diff Breathers, 2 1/2" S/S cat back, ScangaugeII, Munji EGR controller, Bushskinz side steps, DPChip, LM8,

        Comment

        • Pajero12
          Member
          • Dec 2015
          • 76
          • Adelaide

          #5
          Originally posted by whereswes View Post
          What would be a safe brake pad minimum thickness?

          Currently have 4.5mm right rear and 5mm on all others but have a trip to Wonangatta at end of month which will be hard on brakes (particularly with the auto).

          Cheers
          Wes
          Hey Wes,

          There should be wear indicators on the metal plates that sit behind each pad, if they're touching your disc, they will squeal. Maybe check the manual?

          I have always bled my brake lines when changing pads.
          NW GL. DiD Auto with 265/75 St Maxx on 17" Alloys, Factory Steel bullbar
          MODS: TJM Airtec Snorkel | Bilstein Shocks with King Springs | full bushskinz bash plates | LED Lightbar | Rhino Platform | GME XRS UHF platform mounted antenna w folding bracket | Kings Awning | Ultragauge | Dual Battery | Rear Storage System | Paddle Shift | M&M Lockup Mate

          Comment

          • old Jack
            Regular
            • Jun 2011
            • 11609
            • Adelaide, South Australia.

            #6
            Originally posted by whereswes View Post
            What would be a safe brake pad minimum thickness?

            Currently have 4.5mm right rear and 5mm on all others but have a trip to Wonangatta at end of month which will be hard on brakes (particularly with the auto).

            Cheers
            Wes
            Service Manual,states 1.5mm front pads and 2mm rear pads. New pads are 9.5mm front and 10mm rear.

            OJ.
            2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
            MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

            Comment

            • whereswes
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2015
              • 395
              • Melbourne, Australia

              #7
              Thanks OJ, Think I'll be OK if I have to leave it until after the trip.

              Thanks Pajero12. Me too on the bleed.

              Cheers
              Wes
              2014 Auto PC Challenger, TJM Bar with Centre/Side LED Bars & 12,000lb Winch, Uniden UHF, ARB Rack with single row LED Bar & Awning, Safari Snorkel, Boos Bash Plates, 265-75R16 BFG KM2s, 100AH AGM Battery and Redarc DC-DC to power Waeco, Custom rear interior, HR Towbar, Combo suspension (Lovells front/ARB rear), Brown Davis LR tank, Diff Breathers, 2 1/2" S/S cat back, ScangaugeII, Munji EGR controller, Bushskinz side steps, DPChip, LM8,

              Comment

              • XLS PB Challenger
                Member
                • May 2016
                • 56
                • Reynella East

                #8
                Rotors disc brakes

                While we are on brakes, has anyone upgraded/changed their factory rotors? My front rotors are currently warped and wondering whether to machine or change them over to say DBA rotors or similar.

                Cheers
                Paul
                2010 PB Challenger Auto - 265/60/18 Dick Cepek - MCC front bar - 9 inch LED kings spot lights- Safari Snorkel - 2 inch lift - REDARC BMS1230 Manager & REDARC TVMS - AUX battery in custom tray behind cargo trim - Jump start feature - 3inch Triton exhaust - morepower diesel chip - bash plates - 9.5 XP winch - Auto front locker - Automate - RV meter.

                Comment

                • Toddyh
                  Valued Member
                  • Nov 2013
                  • 662
                  • Lalor Park, NSW

                  #9
                  Originally posted by XLS PB Challenger View Post
                  While we are on brakes, has anyone upgraded/changed their factory rotors? My front rotors are currently warped and wondering whether to machine or change them over to say DBA rotors or similar.

                  Cheers
                  Paul
                  I've got DBA T2. Had them for about 3-4 years now plus had them on previous vehicle too. Good things.
                  2010 PB LS- ARB Bull Bar, Runva 11XP winch, Cooper ST Maxx 265/70/17, Ultimate suspension lift, Bushskinz plates, Kaymar rear bar with single wheel carrier.

                  Comment

                  • pb4x2
                    Member
                    • May 2015
                    • 131
                    • Deception Bay Qld 4508

                    #10
                    brake pad change

                    I bought a 2011 MN Triton a year ago which i am very happy with apart from the fact it had new brake pads fitted and dust up the alloys making the vehicle look unloved. My question is what brand low dust pads you would recommend?
                    Darryl
                    2012 PB Challenger 4x2 auto

                    30mm Whiteline Front Sway Bar / SPV Delete / Catch can / Auto-mate / Lowered Front 35mm Rear 50mm / Side Steps Lowered 20mm / Rear Spoiler / Sony Double DIN xav-ax1000 / Rear Camera / All the Chrome bits

                    Comment

                    • craka
                      Valued Member
                      • Jun 2009
                      • 2057
                      • Newcastle (Newie)

                      #11
                      Originally posted by pb4x2 View Post
                      I bought a 2011 MN Triton a year ago which i am very happy with apart from the fact it had new brake pads fitted and dust up the alloys making the vehicle look unloved. My question is what brand low dust pads you would recommend?
                      Darryl
                      I'm of the opinion that softer compounds will usually be more efficient at braking (ie have better braking capacity) but do to so would produce more dust as a consequence.

                      Longer wearing pads would have a harder compound, thus less dust but less efficient at braking.
                      NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

                      Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

                      Comment

                      • old Jack
                        Regular
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 11609
                        • Adelaide, South Australia.

                        #12
                        I replaced my front discs, as they were warped, with DBA2208S T2 rotors, DBA do a selection of 8 different disc so depending on your budget and use then there is a disc for you.

                        I also fitted Bendix 4wd pads front and rear at the same time, no bedding in required and nice pedal feel, good braking and no fade but at 40,000kms all 4 pads were worn to the limit, NOT HAPPY JAN, as I had got 80,000kms of the original pads. Replaced again with Bendix 4wd but are having discussions with Bendix on why the short life. I had used Bendix 4wd on previous manual transmission 4wds and got a 120,000+kms out of a set of pads, the Challenger being an auto trans I was happy with 80,0000kms out of the factory pads and was hoping for at least the same life but better performance from the Bendix 4wd. Work in progress on this one at the moment.

                        OJ.
                        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                        Comment

                        • bigdave
                          Member
                          • Apr 2010
                          • 179
                          • Adelaide SA

                          #13
                          Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                          I replaced my front discs, as they were warped, with DBA2208S T2 rotors, DBA do a selection of 8 different disc so depending on your budget and use then there is a disc for you.

                          I also fitted Bendix 4wd pads front and rear at the same time, no bedding in required and nice pedal feel, good braking and no fade but at 40,000kms all 4 pads were worn to the limit, NOT HAPPY JAN, as I had got 80,000kms of the original pads. Replaced again with Bendix 4wd but are having discussions with Bendix on why the short life. I had used Bendix 4wd on previous manual transmission 4wds and got a 120,000+kms out of a set of pads, the Challenger being an auto trans I was happy with 80,0000kms out of the factory pads and was hoping for at least the same life but better performance from the Bendix 4wd. Work in progress on this one at the moment.

                          OJ.
                          Thats not good OJ. I got just shy of 100,000 on my OEM pads and replaced with Bendix 4wd about a year ago. Will be interesting to see how they fair on my vehicle. I’ll be keeping a close eye. Thanks
                          Cheers,
                          Bigdave

                          Parted ways with my 2010 PB Manual after 9 years of reliable motoring...
                          Icom 440 Remote UHF, 130AH AGM in rear, Tekonsha Primus IQ Brake Controller, Bridgestone D697s, HR Towbar, Kings KCRS-23 springs / Pedders 5899. Single axle 18' Caravan with muddies & good clearance - ATM 2.5T/Ball weight 250kg

                          Comment

                          • pb4x2
                            Member
                            • May 2015
                            • 131
                            • Deception Bay Qld 4508

                            #14
                            brake pad change

                            Originally posted by craka View Post
                            I'm of the opinion that softer compounds will usually be more efficient at braking (ie have better braking capacity) but do to so would produce more dust as a consequence.

                            Longer wearing pads would have a harder compound, thus less dust but less efficient at braking.
                            Totally agree with you Craka, your opinion is actually a fact. What I am looking for is low dust pads on the soft side that will be kind to the discs (rotors) and perform well. If all else fails I may buy genuine as I don't this issue with my PB Challenger.
                            Darryl
                            2012 PB Challenger 4x2 auto

                            30mm Whiteline Front Sway Bar / SPV Delete / Catch can / Auto-mate / Lowered Front 35mm Rear 50mm / Side Steps Lowered 20mm / Rear Spoiler / Sony Double DIN xav-ax1000 / Rear Camera / All the Chrome bits

                            Comment

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