25 days stargazing from my swag

[cruisn06]

looks like I may have to give the shorty another shake down run down south. great lookin trip.

[efeinblatt]

I was further east than I had ever driven before - plane rides to Kununurra, Alice, Cairns, Sydney, and Melbourne don't count - but still far from my intended destinations: Fitzgerald River National Park and Cape Le Grand or Cape Arid. So, I headed to Bremer Bay, figuring I could enter FRNP from there. What a circus the town was! It was the height of the holiday season, and the place was jam packed with holiday makers who seemed more on edge on vacation than at home. The aisles at the supermarkets were something to behold with every family in-fighting over what they should buy and the kids tearing the place apart.

I asked around, but nobody seemed to know how to get into the Park - they actually didn't know what Park I was talking about. Frustrated, I headed down toward Doubtful Island Bay (I think that's what's it's called) and stopped for a coffee at a Barista Truck. WOW! My first site of the incredibly white sandy beaches and that varigated turquoise colored Southern Ocean. Just like the postcards. Mind-bogglingly beautiful.

The barista fellow told me I could cross the sand spit separating the inlet from the sea and enter the Park from the road on the other side. No need to deflate, the sand was hard stuff and the road OK. So off I went, happy not to have fiddle with the tyres. (BTW, it was beginning to get terribly hot, so I was OK staying in the car, enjoying scenery via air conditioning.) Just as I made it across the spit, I asked a guy in a Patrol coming the opposite direction about the road conditions. 'Not bad', he said, 'but you should bring those types down to about 12psi if you want a comfortable ride.' Ugh. About 500 meters in there was a parking/turnaround next to the inlet on my left. I pulled out the stauns, which I had set to 13psi, and sat in the car while they did their magic.

Off I went down the road, which became increasingly rough and rutted (the guy in the Patrol obviously had a different perception of 'OK'), heading about 30 km into the Park toward Gordon Inlet where I hoped to throw down my swag for a couple of days. When the rough stuff stopped, the deep sand started. I was not at all in my element here. I really, really didn't feel comfortable in the Paj - it was sliding to much in the sand, and it was taking too much effort to keep from getting bogged. The car was heavily loaded, so I'm sure weight was an issue, but I'd like to hear other peoples' experiences with deep sand driving in a Gen 2 diesel because I think it's a weak spot. I know I'm not too experienced, and I think maybe the ARB bull bar in the front doesn't help, but I'd like some advice here.

The folks behind me in a tricked out Suburban where having a hell of a time as well. They were driving well over 3 tons in the soft stuff. We pulled over together in the area in the pic below, a bit shy of the campsite. The temperature had soared to 45º C and when I opened the car door I felt like I was in Darwin at the height of the build up. PLUS, the flies thought I must be a solution to all their earthly problems, because I was covered with them. Well, there was no way I was going to camp there. The couple in the Suburban told me they were camping at Miller's Point - a place a had intended to visit - about 50 Kms west toward Albany from Bremer Bay. I kept that in the back of my mind as I turned around and headed back along this ridiculous track.



Despite the heat, I didn't want to leave the park right away and was in no hurry to retrace my steps. I couldn't avoid the sand tracks, but I could postpone the worst of the corrugations and deep ruts. So, I veered off Gordon Inlet 'Road' and went in the direction of the Quaalup Homestead Wilderness Retreat. The Homestead was built in 1858, and while some of the buildings have been lovingly preserved, others are in ruins. It was originally pastoral sheep grazing property, and you can read something about it's checkered history here:

http://www.whalesandwildflowers.com.au/quaaluphomestead.html

And my first gobsmacked look at a Royal Hakea, pictures of which I couldn't stop taking throughout my two visits into the park.



Even if there had been an available spot here to camp or one at St. Mary Campground at Point Ann, it was just too ungodly hot to stick around, and so I left the Park the way I came in through Bremer Bay and backtracked 50 km to Miller's Point on the foreshore of the Beaufort Inlet.

[efeinblatt]

This was the first time I had been away from the coast for a while, and it was pleasant to be back in the woods, albeit, on a very windy inlet. The campground is run by the Shire of Jerramungup and they've done an excellent job keeping it very low keyed and maintaining a wilderness feeling all around. I met up with the couple in the Suburban and we moaned and groaned together about that trip into Gordon Inlet over a few beers (EMUs).

I caught my first Black Bream off of Crocodile Rock (if you're every there, this is the place to fish from if you don't have a boat.) Delicious dusted with a bit of seasoned flour and corn meal. And I used the car awning for the first time because it started pissing down rain. (I set the thing up without a hitch by myself, but the 2 other times I used it, I was fumbling all over the place. For the life of me I don't know what I did right and then what I did wrong.) Anyway, I stuck around for 2 uneventful days before moving on to Hopetoun.



Oh, and BTW, I found my very first geocache by accident while fishing. Cute little thing in a container with a little notepad and pencil that people could use to write their comments, some of which dated from 2011. I can see the fun in it. Be warned, Shane, you may have a future hunting companion.

[Toddyh]

Just on the sand driving, if you own a DSLR I assume you understand the photography triangle (iso, f, shutter) and how each thing effects the others. Sand driving is the same expect your three variables are power, tyre pressure and momentum. If power or momentum goes down, tyre pressure will need to go down to compensate. Inversely to run higher tyre pressure you will need more power and/or momentum.

In your case running a low power diesel you will either need masses of momentum or really low tyre pressures. If someone in a newer, more powerful diesel tells you they are running 12psi you will need to go lower. You should be able to go as low as 8psi if required. Just don't make any sharp turns or sudden stops.
Hope this helps.

[efeinblatt]

Just on the sand driving, if you own a DSLR I assume you understand the photography triangle (iso, f, shutter) and how each thing effects the others. Sand driving is the same expect your three variables are power, tyre pressure and momentum. If power or momentum goes down, tyre pressure will need to go down to compensate. Inversely to run higher tyre pressure you will need more power and/or momentum.

In your case running a low power diesel you will either need masses of momentum or really low tyre pressures. If someone in a newer, more powerful diesel tells you they are running 12psi you will need to go lower. You should be able to go as low as 8psi if required. Just don't make any sharp turns or sudden stops.
Hope this helps.

I do like your analogy, Toddyh. Thanks, it make sense. But do different vehicles handle the sand inherently differently - apart from your 3 variables? I saw Prados move nimbly through deep sand in places where I really feared to go. Does the weight of my Paj have any bearing on its handling capabilities?

[Toddyh]

I do like your analogy, Toddyh. Thanks, it make sense. But do different vehicles handle the sand inherently differently - apart from your 3 variables? I saw Prados move nimbly through deep sand in places where I really feared to go. Does the weight of my Paj have any bearing on its handling capabilities?

Weight does of course have an impact but it's not as simple as it seems. A lighter vehicle will float across the sand easier than a heavier vehicle but a lighter vehicle will also have to lower tyre pressures further to extend the footprint. The strength of the tyres also come into play here. Stiffer sidewall tyres need more weight and lower pressures to extend their footprint.

As for Prados getting around they will either have an OK diesel with something like 120kW/350Nm vs your 75kW/250Nm (appox.). If its a 4L petrol Prado they have heaps more power. If they are running the same tyres pressure as you they will skirt around much easier. Your options are lower tyre pressures further or go faster (momentum).

I was on Stradbroke Island recently towing a camper trailer. Now the main beach is firm and easy driving but the entrances to the camps are soft and steep. I dropped to 12psi knowing this and used a bit of momentum (not too much) when entering the camps. Drove around some bigger, more powerful vehicles who had refused to deflate their tyres. Ended up beating people to the good camp sites because of this. Sand driving is about understanding your setup and your requirements. Adjust your tyre pressures and driving style accordingly. It's all practice and experience. The more you do it the more you will understand what to do and what is going on and the more comfortable you will feel on sand.

[stevemc181]

With your struggles in sand, and particularly at the First Yeagarup dune where you ran out of puff. I would have used low range 2nd or 3rd. It's interesting that you seem to be really struggling with sand even with lower tyres pressures around 12 psi. I don't think the NH models have Active Stability Control? So would assume that turning it off is not an option for you.
Is it actually engaging 4wd, are the hubs auto locking or manual? Something doesn't seem right if you struggle every time on sand.

[old Jack]

Nice reply Toddyh.
Caution, too much momentum can easily result in losing control which in most cases leads to either damage or getting bogged if the attempt is unsuccessful. Only practice and learning from experience or even better others/training will enable most people to drive in really soft sand with confidence.

Auto trans also makes it easier than manual trans in the really soft sand. (EDIT) Auto used in Tiptronic mode and not "D".

I always use low range in the soft sand so I am already if I need low reverse gear. Sand driving is fun until you get bogged closed to the waters edge or end up being bogged on a dune at an angle. In both these situations things can turn pear shaped very quickly and escalate to losing your vehicle.

cheers, OJ.

[Paj man]

Having done a large amount of sand driving in the area you're in at the moment (and in general), I think there are 2 things you should make sure you do. As others have mentioned tyre pressure is key to beach driving; I started at 18psi but now I just go down to 12psi (careful of sharp turns at speed with this pressure) - this being said, my sidewalls barely bulge at 12psi so perhaps start at 15psi and go from there. I use low range as it gives me the gearing I need to keep my momentum going if I hit a soft/deep spot of sand. I also make sure I keep my rev's at a point where the car isn't struggling and I'm able to give the throttle a quick jab for more power/speed when I need it. If you can't sit at this rev's position then you need to either pick a better gear or take your tyres down a little bit more.

Keep in the wheel ruts along normal beaches as they will be the most compact (despite how deep they look) however I know the beaches down there can get quite the angle to them sometimes (larger swell will wash the beach out a bit). These spots will need a bit of speed and rev's to keep you from sliding down the slope, I'd walk each of these sections (usually not too long) and find where the hard sand is (the water line is usually intimidating but mostly very firm).

I know some people have got the full throttle approach to beach driving and that does work. But I think the faster you go on the beach the worse you get yourself bogged.

[efeinblatt]

Thanks all for the very generous and helpful replies.
This was essentially my maiden voyage with the Paj and I was traveling solo - both ambitious and probably stupid for such a trip - so being bogged was always on my mind, and getting bogged that one time only made matters worse. I suspect that my worry and inexperience contributed as much to the apparent bad performance as anything else.

However, I'll get ahead of my story here:

There was a second dune crossing. Not at Yeagarup, but at Hammersley Inlet in Fitzgerald River National Park. There is a stunning 4WD sand crossing that leads down to Hammersley beach. It's a 30-40 minute ride through spectacular scenery, and a family from the East that was on one of those only in Australia-take your kids out of school-and travel the country for 9 months voyages encouraged me to come along with them on the track. We were both camping at the Hammersley Inlet campsite - where, btw, Shane is off to now - and they had done the track 3 or 4 times already. We discussed my 'issues' and decided that it was probably best to keep the Paj in 4WHH and 1st gear. Now, this made sense to me, and what in hindsight I thought was a solution to my mistakes at Yeagarup, and I didn't mind gunning the car up the dunes in 1st because it's used to driving over 3000 RPMs - highway driving in 5th is always over 3000, so this seemed like it was worth a try. And, IT WORKED! Now, it still felt like it should have been easier - and maybe it would have been in 4WHLc - but I'll have to try that on another occasion.

The tip about lowering tyre pressure to compensate for the tiny 2.5 engine is a good one, and one that I'll heed in the future. Also, I quickly realized that lowering to 12 psi on a hot day is like being at 15 psi after several minutes of driving. Another consideration.

All in all, I became increasingly used to how the vehicle functions, and will surely be more confident on my next outings. But maybe solo is not the way to go for a while ....

[Dicko1]

Like your camping set up. Simple and efficient. Same as how I camp. The less stuff you carry the better. I have one of the 2 second quick set up tents that are the bees knees.

[efeinblatt]

There were two things that worried me on the trip: getting bogged - which I've already written about - and running out of coffee. I'm kind of fussy about my coffee - I even travel with a small Japanese hand grinder - and my ability to think straight in the morning is directly proportional to how much coffee I consume. I had checked out several IGA's along my route after Albany, but never found what I wanted, and I was beginning to run low. I had enough for a while, but certainly not the whole trip. And then along came Jerramungup, where I stopped for fuel. I couldn't bring myself to eat another pie or sausage roll for breakfast, so I skipped the roadhouse attached to the fuel station and walked around the corner. Lo and behold, a sign which read, Firori Coffee, appeared before me. So after a delicious breakfast panini of some sort and an excellent flat white, I asked (actually, 'begged' would be the proper word) the proprietor if I could buy some coffee beans from her. She didn't bat an eye. 'Bring me a container, it's $34/kilo.' Done!

There wasn't a place to be had for love nor money at the main caravan park in Hopetoun, I was too tired to find a bush camp, it was New Year's Eve, and I needed a hot shower. There was a new, horribly unappealing caravan park attached to a liquor store/bar/restaurant about 10 KMs back along the road towards Ravensthorpe, so I trudged back, having promised myself when I first passed it that under no circumstances would I spend the night there. Ha. The lady was just locking up the office when I drove in. 'Just need a place to put my swag for the night', I said. 'Well, for $15 you can camp way out back in the construction site next to the ablutions, but I warn you, there are snakes back there.' Ugh. 'What kind of snakes?' 'Tiger and Dugite. Some local boys got too drunk a week ago and one of them was just all so clever. He picked one up, got bite, and we had to fly him to the hospital in Kalgoorlie.' Quite a sales pitch. I handed over my $15.

There's an old American cowboy trick of encircling your bedroll with some hemp rope to keep the rattlesnakes away. It may or may not be apocryphal, but I wasn't taking any chances: you can see the rope if you look closely at the pic below. And, I'm alive to tell the story, so I guess it worked



New Year's Eve at the bar was an eye-opener for me. I'll just leave it at that.

[RUGGA]

Nooo, don't just leave it at that...... Details, where they worse than a possible snake bite?

And what are you doing carrying Hemp rope Hmmm?

[Paj man]

Thanks all for the very generous and helpful replies.
The tip about lowering tyre pressure to compensate for the tiny 2.5 engine is a good one, and one that I'll heed in the future. Also, I quickly realized that lowering to 12 psi on a hot day is like being at 15 psi after several minutes of driving. Another consideration.

The lower pressure helps the car float on top of the sand rather than push through it, in reality all cars should run this tyre pressure. You're onto it though - the best thing to do is go and get bogged somewhere consequence free. Then you'll know how to get your car out and your confidence will grow with each trip too.

Great trip report too! I usually head down that way at least twice a year and already have 3 trips booked for this year. Itching to get down there now!

[Toddyh]

Nice reply Toddyh.

Thanks OJ.

Great report so far efeinblatt. Keep it coming. I can already see your sand driving experience and confidence growing.