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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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Old 25-02-08
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Post Another Super Select flashing lights problem

Hey all,

I went to the beach on wednesday last week, and since then i have not been able to get the front 4x4 lights to stop flashing when in 2h. I have done about 400k's since and it doesn't matter what i do, it wont stop flashing, so obviosly something is broken. I dont really think it was anything to do with the beach as such, as about 3 days before, i was having trouble getting the front lights to illuninate when going into 4h from 2h, and when travelling around in 4h, like i do about 80% of the time, they would with out touching the tranfer lever, start flashing for a little while, then go back to continously glowing for a bit, then i would notice them flashing again. But while it was doing this, when ever i selected 2h, it would all work normally again. But now since the beach its the reverse, when ever i select 2h the lights flash.

I have tried what is sugested at http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view...ticleID=318776 by looking for the actuator moving, which it does, i also swaped over the blue and yellow vaccuum lines, and that did nothing. I have tested that 4h and 2h actually engages and disengages, so its nothing major, i dont think. Just the display doesn't stop flashing in 2h.

So i disconnected the free wheel engage switch and the display stoped flashing, so i took it out, thinking that it may of been stuck on, but i cleaned it and tested the switch and it seems to be working fine, so i reinstalled it, but the problem remains the same.

So is it possible that the actuator is not moving the full distance to disengage the free wheel engage switch, or the switch is faulty or is it most likely something else.



Its probably worth mentioning, that I had a new engine rear main seal put in just over a month ago, so the gearbox had to come out, but it has worked fine for the 10,000 k's since then, and i have never had any problems before, usually only takes 2 or 3 flash's to engage or dis engage when going slow and instant if doing around 90 km/hr. Also, the 4x4 system gets used frequently, probably about 4 times a day between 4h and 2h, so prehaps its getting used a bit 2 often.

Cheers in advance for your help

Shane
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Old 25-02-08
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Hi shane,

I would go towards a faulty switch, as your saying it would stop flashing if you unplugg the connector and if you have already cleaned it, Try cleaning them again. You could possibly take out the sensor switch and give it a good clean as I know it's abit fidderly underneath the car trying to clean the connectors..
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Old 25-02-08
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Cheers for that,


i shall take out the sensor again and give it another clean, then if it doesn't work, i will get a new one.

shane
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Old 29-02-08
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I ripped out the free wheel engage switch again, and it was reading 0 ohms resistance, regardless of the postion, so a bit of a wash in petrol, and the switch is working again now.

But the system isn't working 100% yet. It just went back to how it was the previous couple of days before the switch got stuck on.

Whilst i dont have time to fix it in the next couple of days, i'm just wondering if i'm doing any more damage by using the vehicle.

At the moment, when i drive the vehicle in 2h, the front actuator and shaft on the front diff is staying connected, when it should be disconnected. I wasn't sure if that was ok 2 drive with or not, so i've been using 4h, however, 4h i have found is kinda dangerous to be using, cause some times it has trouble staying in 4h, and the front actuator disconnects, even though it shouldn't, and then u end up pulling out in front of some one, with not much get up and go. So obviously there is a vacuum problem some where.


Anyways, i have started (probably done 200k's) using the car in 2h with the front actuator connected. Is this bad? Or will if be fine untill it gets fixed. I'm sure the actuator is there for a reason i just dont know what for.

Cheers
Shane
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Old 29-02-08
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Hi Mad Mac -
try getting some light lubricricant into the actuator ( not to much ) it's a real pain in the butt to do though... I used some penetrene .. Also pull the boot back on the actuator rod, and apply some grease right in where it goes into the side of the diff..Replace the boot

I had problems with mine for ages and since doing this it changes easily from 2 to 4 wheels and back again..

Cheers Sunny
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Old 29-02-08
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Cheers for that, i will put some more grease in there, but it does move fairly easily by hand.

I just really want to know if its ok to drive in 2h with the front actuator connected instead of disconnected?

Shane
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Old 29-02-08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Mac View Post
Cheers for that, i will put some more grease in there, but it does move fairly easily by hand.

I just really want to know if its ok to drive in 2h with the front actuator connected instead of disconnected?

Shane
No damage will be done. About the only significant difference is that the front crownwheel & pinion will be turning, and driving the front propshaft too. You'll use a little more fuel, but that's about it.

I'd guess it's more of a mechanical problem preventing the actuator engaging properly. If you lose vacuum altogether the actuator should, by default, engage. If it's dropping out with 4H selected I'd guess it had barely engaged to begin with, and is being "spat out" by drive forces.

Good luck,

Scott
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Old 01-03-08
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Cheers for that Scott.

Its good to know i'm not doing any more damage by driving it.

Shane
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  #9  
Old 05-03-08
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hey, if my c/d light indicator is flashing during 4lhc and 4llc, is it already engaged or is it engaging? or maybe another light problem?
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  #10  
Old 06-03-08
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if you have this flashing problem, try a slow reverse then forward again. if the lights still flash you may have any number of minor problems.
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