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  • HeavyPizzaz
    Valued Member
    • May 2017
    • 807
    • Sydney

    Deflating Tyres with compressor

    Anybody here just use the gauge and the relief / deflate valve button on their air compressor for airing down? I mean rather than dedicated tyre deflators. Just wondering whether it’s worth getting deflators. I’m assuming it’s a fair bit quicker to air down with deflators which remove the valve.
  • GHendo
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 4375
    • Northern NSW

    #2
    I suppose it depends on how much time you have - deflators are much quicker. I do wonder however, if it is a good idea to keep removing the valve from the tyre – ie. if you don’t put the valve back correctly or somehow cross the thread you could have a leak that would be a right pain in the butt.

    Cheers

    Geoff
    03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

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    • Ian H
      Valued Member
      • May 2015
      • 2496
      • Melbourne

      #3
      I've got a deflator but don't use it. I just press the valve in to let out a good amount of air initially and then use the gauge from the compressor to let out a bit more and read the pressure.
      2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

      Comment

      • dhula
        Valued Member
        • Sep 2012
        • 1196
        • South of Perth

        #4
        I followed the Jones and got myself a Vv core removing type deflator.
        Used it for a couple of beach runs and went back to my Stauns.

        Don't like the idea of pulling/reinserting the Vv each time. The little pin in the centre is designed to be pushed in/reseated many times where as the Vv itself and it's seal isn't really designed to do it over and over again IMO. I'm sure many will disagree with me and site 100's of remove/insert cycles with no damage but it only takes one to stuff the internal thread of the Vv stem bad enough and you're changing a wheel to get home (unless you have a Vv stem handy of course )


        In answer to the OP's Q, yes you can use a normal tyre inflator to deflate tyres. Just change the chuck to a self locking type as it'll make it easier (lock it on to the Vv steam instead of having to hold it). It will deflate quicker if you unplug the hose and hold the trigger compared to holding the little "deflate" button
        2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
        2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

        Comment

        • hinsch
          Valued Member
          • Jan 2010
          • 703
          • Perth

          #5
          I bought Stauns deflators, expensive for what they are and slow to deflate, suggest you look around for a different brand. I adjusted them to 16psi which is what I normally deflate to when on sand. Because they are slow I normally put three on then use a tyre gauge to deflate the forth tyre then just move around with the tyre gauge. You could get really keen and install a second inflation valve into the rim, this one does not have a valve inside just a good fitting dust cap, tyre goes down real quick using this method.
          NX 2016 GLS, Graphite, Nudge Bar, Pirelli Scorpion Plus.

          Comment

          • sharkcaver
            "2000"+ Valued Contributor
            • May 2009
            • 6270
            • Perth

            #6
            Originally posted by dhula View Post
            I'm sure many will disagree with me and site 100's of remove/insert cycles with no damage but it only takes one to stuff the internal thread of the Vv stem bad enough and you're changing a wheel to get home (unless you have a Vv stem handy of course
            I would fall into that category. I've never had a drama. But then i also on occasion just use a stick, and using a stick is fraught with more danger than a valve removal type deflater. I've never used a genuine staunn, but i found my generic knock offs slow and not very repeatable.

            As for valve cores, I've carried spares for years. never had to use one.

            As to the compressor deflator button, a good solution for incremental adjustment, especially if the compressor is already connected (IE accidental over inflation) but just not effective for a major deflate due to the volume of air that can flow through it. Especially if you have to pull the compressor out to do so. Just carry a stick and a push on gauge
            MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

            My Journeys

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            • stumagoo
              Valued Member
              • Jun 2014
              • 2064
              • Perth WA S.O.R

              #7
              I used to use an old school valve remover - I had an idea of how much I wanted the tires to bag up (and what pressure that was) and I dropped by eye. I got pretty good and because I did mine all the time I could get mine withing 2-3psi (around 13-16psi aiming for 15)

              However like above the idea of dropping or cross threading the valve and the ease of getting them to the same pressure led me to grab a tire deflator (mine is a rough country one) for around $50 it has a gauge. No idea how reliable it is but its within a couple of psi and as long as they are all the same I dont really care. It also keeps crap out of the valve and makes it easy to not lose the valve and refit while deflating the tire
              1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
              *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
              1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
              .

              Comment

              • hinsch
                Valued Member
                • Jan 2010
                • 703
                • Perth

                #8
                Originally posted by sharkcaver View Post
                I would fall into that category. I've never had a drama. But then i also on occasion just use a stick, and using a stick is fraught with more danger than a valve removal type deflater. I've never used a genuine staunn, but i found my generic knock offs slow and not very repeatable.

                As for valve cores, I've carried spares for years. never had to use one.

                As to the compressor deflator button, a good solution for incremental adjustment, especially if the compressor is already connected (IE accidental over inflation) but just not effective for a major deflate due to the volume of air that can flow through it. Especially if you have to pull the compressor out to do so. Just carry a stick and a push on gauge
                Take 4 match sticks with you and stick them into the valve core, did that when we where kids to the teachers that gave us a hard time.
                NX 2016 GLS, Graphite, Nudge Bar, Pirelli Scorpion Plus.

                Comment

                • Pauno
                  Member
                  • Dec 2012
                  • 144
                  • Newcastle

                  #9
                  While Staun’s are expensive they are handy. By the time you walk around and put one on the 4th tyre you only have to wait a minute or so then the first finishes. Then you just walk around and take them off, put the cap back on as they are all done in the same time. I can’t see why some people trash them so much
                  NW Exceed

                  Comment

                  • Ian H
                    Valued Member
                    • May 2015
                    • 2496
                    • Melbourne

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Pauno View Post
                    While Staun’s are expensive they are handy. By the time you walk around and put one on the 4th tyre you only have to wait a minute or so then the first finishes. Then you just walk around and take them off, put the cap back on as they are all done in the same time. I can’t see why some people trash them so much
                    Mainly because you are stuck to deflate to whatever setting they are on. Sometimes I want 20psi and others I want 25. They are no good for that.
                    2015 NX GLS, Factory alloy bar, Kings HD Springs & Koni Shocks with 50mm lift, MM Auto Mate, Paddle shift kit, dual batteries with Redarc DC/DC, LRA 58L tank, Safari snorkel, Boo's bash plates (full set), 17" steels with BFG KO2's, Drifta drawers with slide, TPMS, Uniden UH8080S, Alpine iLX-702D head unit.

                    Comment

                    • nj swb
                      Resident
                      • Jun 2007
                      • 7332
                      • Adelaide

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Pauno View Post
                      While Staun’s are expensive they are handy. By the time you walk around and put one on the 4th tyre you only have to wait a minute or so then the first finishes. Then you just walk around and take them off, put the cap back on as they are all done in the same time. I can’t see why some people trash them so much
                      Mine weren't particularly precise - lucky to be within a couple of psi of the original set point.
                      NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                      Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                      Scorpro Explorer Box

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                      • old Jack
                        Regular
                        • Jun 2011
                        • 11606
                        • Adelaide, South Australia.

                        #12
                        I have used Staun for over 10 years, and although not super accurate, I set them a few psi higher than desired then it only takes another 30 seconds per tyre to drop the pressures the desired level. Quicker, more compact and lighter than an ARB type deflator. I also do not like the valve being removed during the deflation process.

                        OJ.
                        Last edited by old Jack; 07-01-19, 07:09 AM. Reason: auto spell correct corrected!
                        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                        Comment

                        • sharkcaver
                          "2000"+ Valued Contributor
                          • May 2009
                          • 6270
                          • Perth

                          #13
                          Talking about fear, does anyone have a real world example of an issue with a deflation by removing the valve core? as long as there is no dirt ingress, I cant see the issue.

                          I'm glad I wasn't one of Hinsch's teachers
                          MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

                          My Journeys

                          Comment

                          • Lazarus
                            Valued Member
                            • Jan 2008
                            • 581
                            • Melbourne, Western suburbs

                            #14
                            I go old school, use car key to deflate the tyres. Then check the preassure with the gauge.
                            Do not like removing the valve.
                            NW 2014 MY14 GLX-R, auto, BushSkinz bashplates, Pedders TrakRyder foam cell 2' lift, Falken AT3W LT, Rhino Pioneer 6 platform, flip key, Redarc BCDC40 and 135 amps lithium battery, Torque Pro OBD, EVC Throttle controller, ARB Compressor, LED lights (internal and outside), Uniden UHF, ARB Frontier 128L long range fuel tank.

                            Comment

                            • NJV6
                              Valued Member
                              • Sep 2010
                              • 606
                              • New Zealand

                              #15
                              What is so bad with removing the valve? Done it for years. Quick and easy.
                              1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
                              1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
                              2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

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