Swapped ECU and now it won't go.

[Spin]

I picked up a second NM for parts but it turned out the parts car is in better condition than mine.
As mine was about to run out of rego, I thought it would be a good idea to swap my good bits onto the other car and register it instead.
So far that idea isn't going too well.

The clock spring was no good in the parts car so I have swapped the steering column, ETACS module and ECU in the engine bay fuse box. Everything lights up when I turn the key on and the car cranks, but it will not fire.
I have noticed the engine light comes on when I turn the key on. It stays lit for a few second then go out for a few seconds and then comes back on solid.

Is there another module somewhere I should have changed?

[crispus]

Shouldn't you need to pair the new ECU with the immobilizer (or vice-versa)?

[Spin]

I thought swapping the complete steering column, ETACS ECU and ECU under the bonnet from a running Pajero would keep them paired.
That is unless there is another module for the immobiliser hidden somewhere else I haven't found.

I have swapped everything I could find under the dash that looks like an ECU except the one for the airbags.

[crispus]

Not sure for this particular model, but I know the VIN is stored in multiple ECU in the car for some models and used to know if a particular ECU belongs to that car...

[geopaj]

Did it start before you swapped the steering column and associated bits? If yes, put it all back and just change the clock spring.

Why did you swap so much for just a clock spring? (I would have just changed the clock spring - you can buy them new for about $20-40 too)

[crispus]

It seems to be a separate ECU: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISH...UAAOSwX09ct6Hk
More info: http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=169616

[erad]

Have you tried getting codes from the diagnostic plug? This will probably tell you where to start looking. Meanwhile, check to see if you have spark. If it is the immobiliser (i reckon it is), you will still have spark, but it will not have fuel. Then try some "start ya Bastard" or equivalent sprayed into the intake and if it goes, it is fuel related. Next, try powering the fuel pump directly from the battery. If it runs then, you have either an ECU problem or an immobiliser problem.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Is there an ECU above the passengers feet on left side? This is the engine ecu.

[Spin]

Did it start before you swapped the steering column and associated bits? If yes, put it all back and just change the clock spring.

Why did you swap so much for just a clock spring? (I would have just changed the clock spring - you can buy them new for about $20-40 too)

Yes both cars did run before I swapped things over.

I had two keys for one car and only one for the parts car.

[Spin]

It seems to be a separate ECU: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MITSUBISH...UAAOSwX09ct6Hk
More info: http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=169616

This ECU is attached to the steering column, it moved over when I swapped the steering column.

[Spin]

Is there an ECU above the passengers feet on left side? This is the engine ecu.

In the gen 3 the engine ECU is in the fuse box under the bonnet.

There is a box above the passengers feet but it's the aerial relay. Yes I did just swap them after reading your comment, just in case.

[Spin]

Have you tried getting codes from the diagnostic plug? This will probably tell you where to start looking. Meanwhile, check to see if you have spark. If it is the immobiliser (i reckon it is), you will still have spark, but it will not have fuel. Then try some "start ya Bastard" or equivalent sprayed into the intake and if it goes, it is fuel related. Next, try powering the fuel pump directly from the battery. If it runs then, you have either an ECU problem or an immobiliser problem.

I have run out of light tonight, but I did plug all the bits from the parts car into my other car. It did fire but stopped instantly. I am thinking it's the immobiliser as well.

Just to refresh what I have swapped from one car to the other. Both cars are not starting.

1, Steering column from the slip join under the dash to and including the steering wheel.
2, The ECU in the fuse box under the bonnet.
3, Both ECU looking boxes under the front of the console. There is still one under there but I think it is for the airbags.
4, All the door locks.
5, The aerial relay.
6, The ETACS ECU that is attached to the back of the fuse box under the dash.


The only ECU looking thing left is the RV Meter.

[crispus]

Have you tried getting codes from the diagnostic plug?

As @erad already said, I would go with the diagnostic... If you don't have one, you could try the Mitsubishi way: https://www.pajeroclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3193

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCn3wh6gqwc

To earth the pin 1, you could also use a paper clip/wire/etc to connect it to pin 4:

[Spin]

Crispus, That is my plan for tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks for posting which pins to jumper, I was just about to search for it.

[Spin]

Two updates for today.

1. I scanned the codes. It came up as 54 - immobiliser. this was expected but nice to know for sure.

2. I swapped the Steering column, Engine bay ECU and ETACS ECU back in. The car started. There were no error codes after this.


Now this has raised another question. Where is the other item that is part of the immobiliser?
As I stated earlier, I had swapped the two ECU looking boxes under the console. These two modules were not swapped back today but it started.
The only other thing I can think of is the RV meter but I'm sure I have read about people swapping these without having to get the car recoded.

Any ideas?