Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria Public Forum Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria Public Forum

Go Back   Pajero 4WD Club of Victoria Public Forum > Vehicles > Generation 2 Pajero

Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 23-03-14
michalowsky michalowsky is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Lara Victoria
Posts: 30
Default Using diesel to flush coolant from engine

Hey guys, coolant has leaked into the engine and I was wondering how to go about flushing it out before putting in the new oil and filter?
The head gasket shite itself and have now been changed and retorqued (110 nm in three increasing tensions following workshop manual specs)

The rocker covers are still off and thought I would ask opinions before chucking the poor old girl back together.

$450 Nh Paj
$185 filters oil plugs leads coolant
$20 nuts n bolts from wreckers
$215 recon injectors
$100 gaskets Assorted
$135 Idle air sensor
$100 head gaskets
$75 oil and filter 2nd time round hooray

$1280 Nh Paj
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 23-03-14
Pauly Faulkner's Avatar
Pauly Faulkner Pauly Faulkner is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maitland, NSW
Posts: 6,566
Default

Did you add 90degree after the 110nm? If not then you'll have to retorque at next oil change.

Don't put diesel in, just replace filter and oil and just use cheap oil. Once upto temp remove oil filler cap and drain oil leaving both open for any moisture to evaporate out, also undo oil cooler lines at oil filter and let it drain out. If there was lots of water in oil then repeat again but go for a quick drive this time.

For oil in water you need to flush the cooling system right out with the hose and then use rad flush (alkalyne salt variety), I just use kenco degreaser from bunnings as it's the same thing but costs $9 for 4ltrs. This can take numerous flushes to get it all out.
__________________
97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 23-03-14
Downunder35m's Avatar
Downunder35m Downunder35m is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Near Melbourne
Posts: 2,050
Default

I had to fix a few water intrusions back in the day and it is quite easy if you follow the rules.
Never use any oil based stuff - so no petrol, diesel or even acetone.
Water does not mix with the stuff and gaskets can suffer badly, apart from the problem that these solvents will kill the good properties of the oil, even in small quantities.

To get the water out use a few liters of methylated spirit.
Simply fill the eninge with it and let it run out again.
Catch it and fill again.
The alcohol will bind to the water, diluting the alcohol a bit.
Water trapped as an emulsion with oil will be removed too.
There will be still some dirty oil and water elusion left after this but once the engine reaches operating temps with the fresh oil the alcohol will simply evaporate - so make sure to let the engine idle to temp and don't fully close the filler cap
The next oil change should be a bit sooner than usual, after about 500km, so usecheap oil and don't rev to high in the meantime.
After that all should be back to normal.

Problem with water and engine oil is that the oil is designed to emulgate small quantities of water, which usual come from condensation.
These tiny amounts do boil off with time, but after a failure and a lot of water in the engine your oil won't be able to get rid of all the water.
__________________
'94 2.8TD, 2" lift, low mount winch, bullbar, roofrack, UHF, custom drawers, HID spotties, cam, GPS....
Password for all my files: downunder
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 23-03-14
Pauly Faulkner's Avatar
Pauly Faulkner Pauly Faulkner is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maitland, NSW
Posts: 6,566
Default

Metho will just attack the rubbers and sealants. Avoid any kind of alcohol.

Just repeat drain and flush method with cheap oil and new filter and it will come good after second flush.
Had cracked heads a few times and it doesn't take long to get water and moisture out.
__________________
97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 23-03-14
schnitzel's Avatar
schnitzel schnitzel is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ballarat
Posts: 2,479
Default

dont see replacement head bolts in your list, the diesels use torque to yield bolts which are not reusable. biggest cause of failure in rebuilt mitsubishi diesels is reusing old bolts.

as for coolant dont worry about flushing it will boil off in the first 100k of driving, just let as much as possible drain out before refitting sump plug. As has been said, do a change after 500k and 99% of the residue if any will come out with the oil.
__________________
Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 23-03-14
Bogger Bogger is offline
Unregistered as asked
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,901
Default

Just for interest bang some pure glycol and oil in a jar and watch the result ?
Had all sorts of troubles years ago when I got a brainwave to run pure glycol in a cooling system ................. it can solidify to the point it blocks oil galleries plus it also hates metal heads gaskets as it creaps thru them
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 23-03-14
pajeroman3lt's Avatar
pajeroman3lt pajeroman3lt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: taree
Posts: 214
Default

[QUOTE=schnitzel;359539]dont see replacement head bolts in your list, the diesels use torque to yield bolts which are not reusable. biggest cause of failure in rebuilt mitsubishi diesels is reusing old bolts.

V6 magna engine not diesel.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 23-03-14
Pauly Faulkner's Avatar
Pauly Faulkner Pauly Faulkner is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maitland, NSW
Posts: 6,566
Default

Yeah glycol is a lot thinner then water Bogger. Can be water tight but still able to leak pure glycol.

He has the 3ltr Schnitzel, the title I think meant "using diesel to flush out water in the oil system"....that's how I read it anyways. Being he said 110nm torque on head bolts as per the manual he's not talking about a diesel engine.

Do not just fill it with oil and drive it, the water still present in the system takes time to boil out and it will emulsify the oil and you'll cause enormous wear on sheer load components.
Do a flush with fresh oil before you drive it.
__________________
97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 23-03-14
schnitzel's Avatar
schnitzel schnitzel is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ballarat
Posts: 2,479
Default

All good, I read diesel and gasket ( not gaskets which is further down the list) .didn't realize it was petrol which is as stated whole different scenario
__________________
Current vehicles: 1995 3.5l nj Pajero x 2, 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 Jeep Patriot, 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495
Currently wrecking nh gls lwb, nh gl pov pack, 2 x nj gls lwb nl lwb, NH glx manual, 92 L300 delica
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 23-03-14
Pauly Faulkner's Avatar
Pauly Faulkner Pauly Faulkner is offline
Valued Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maitland, NSW
Posts: 6,566
Default

Diesel oil with all it's detergents would do a better job of cleaning it up I imagine?
__________________
97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coolant Flush damo03 Generation 2 Pajero 2 15-11-13 11:14 PM
Radiator flush and coolant Garygls Generation 3 Pajero 17 07-11-12 09:17 PM
Coolant flush and change on 1993 3ltr V6 Irish Paj Generation 2 Pajero 15 29-04-12 04:35 PM
To or Not to use Engine Flush Product on New Engine rab Generation 2 Pajero 12 12-05-10 11:08 PM
Coolant flush / drain plug location tips cookie Triton 0 26-03-08 01:24 PM


All times are GMT +10. The time now is 07:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.