Help, rounded caliper bolt

[Kingmarz]

I say buy the rounded bolt removal socket kit and have a go yourself it will be cheaper than having a workshop remove it and you still have the handy money saving kit for next time.
I also suggest just buying the single replacement as replacing parts that don’t wear out is a waste of money.

[erad]

Buying a new caliper is not going to solve the problem of removing the existing unit. But if you do buy another caliper, why not go to a wrecker and get one and overhaul it with new seals - it has to be cheaper than a whole new unit.

[pharb]

If it is the caliper PIN bolt (14mm head) then remove whole caliper mount assembly from hub assembly (17mm bolt heads) and put assembly in vice.

Get a large nut (say for a 14mm bolt or bigger), sit over rounded bolt head and weld to bolt head.

Now you have a bigger "head" to put socket on, and the heat from welding my have caused some differential expansion to break any corrosion.

You can probably reassemble with your "reheaded" bolt until replacement arrives.

[Aspey]

https://shopping.rewardia.com.au/Aut...1.63975.109966

Gee thats much cheaper, Protex brand. They also have RDA Rotors. Nice find, I've saved the link.

[Aspey]

Did you then do a google search of the calliper part number, to see what other online prices are?

Are these front or rear callipers?

OJ.

Rear left. $40 for the pin bolts or $153 for a new Protex Caliper. The caliper should be okay with new pins unless there's another problem.
The Caliper looks in okay condition. The wheel is sticking (wont turn freely when jacked up) so I'm guessing it's a sticking pad.
Getting the rounded bolt out is the problem.

[Aspey]

Thanks for the reply's, I'll get a quote from a workshop (I know it's not the Pajero forums way ). I still might have another go at it. I wouldn't have kept turning the socket if I knew the bolt was just rounding.
I was hitting the breaker bar with a hammer while pushing, should I have been hitting the socket instead to break the seal?
My rotor measured 21mm. The spec on the side said 20.4mm min.
Do they need replacing now or is there still some meat left on them?

[Aspey]

I've ordered an Irwin bolt extractor set and will spray some INOX on the caliper bolts.

[marcthelegend]

I've lived with the rounded bolt for a good 6 or so years now. To change the brake pads I just remove the top bolt entirely, swing the caliper free of the pads / disc and then the whole caliper with bolt just comes away. Maybe one day I'll get to replacing it but so far this method works good enough.

[hinsch]

Be really careful using Ezi-Outs, I have a lot of experience with these screw extractors over a 40 year period, in the aviation game we used to tell the apprentices that the reason they were called Ezi-Outs is because they were easy to break off and hard to get out!

I would be using an electric heat gun and warm the caliper area around the bolt up to about 200C the either use a 6point socket on an impact driver if there is enough bite on the bolt head or if it is too rounded off then a pair of vies grips. Either way get the area around the bolt hot, get a good grip on the bolt head, preload the socket or vice grips and then give them a whack with a hammer.

Bolts will be special so go onto Partsque with your VIN and search the part number, online will be about half the price of bolts from the dealer spare parts.

OJ.

Agree OldJack, same for me 40yrs in Aviation RAAF and Contractor, you break an ezi-out your f...ed, as an ex framie I know what that's like.

[Aspey]

I've lived with the rounded bolt for a good 6 or so years now. To change the brake pads I just remove the top bolt entirely, swing the caliper free of the pads / disc and then the whole caliper with bolt just comes away. Maybe one day I'll get to replacing it but so far this method works good enough.

I might have to do the same if I cant get the bolt out. The wheel wont spin freely so it may a sticking pad?

[disco stu]

Agree OldJack, same for me 40yrs in Aviation RAAF and Contractor, you break an ezi-out your f...ed, as an ex framie I know what that's like.

I never seen easy outs used as much as 2 weeks work experience in aviation. Chewed out my share of panel screws while I was there also. They gave me a lot of responsibility for a kid on work experience

[Jasonmc73]

An easy out is ok to use if the broken bit's easy to get out!!
If it's hard to get out it will be fair chance you'll break the easy out & never get it out.

If your patience runs out pay someone & make it there problem, that's why you pay them

Sometimes it is best see link,

http://prothreads.com.au/

[Aspey]

Can anyone confirm if the rotors on the rear of NP models are 300mm?