Traction Control On/Off

[s1rx]

No probs Coughy enjoy mate!

[momo]

I would like to switch the TC on/off independently just like ESC, have you been able to do that yet or is at the stage of preventing the RDL killing TC? (an awesome win in any case)

[Kingbrown]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mqxl0sf6vm...23.44.png?dl=0


A very primitive example of wiring would look like this coughy. Apologies for the quality. Click above to download.Theres also a dropbox link on the 1st page to a modified version of the factory diagram(also primitive).

No must be done at astc ecu. Yes its beside abs unit.

Suggest doing the stability control mod 1st also.

When i get some time i will do up a proper diagram & write up.



Also to all pls mod at your own risk

"Must' gives me no latitude.
Why couldn't the interception of wiring be done inside the cab at either C23 (pin 10 - but need to select correct one of 2 wires) or else C15 (pin3), and also at C35 (pin 14 - but need to select correct one of two wires) ?

The modification for ASC auto off (whenever centre diff is locked) can be achieved via a connection to C36 (pin 6) which is adjacent to the abovementioned C35.

[coughy]

the auto off mod has already been done by oldjack

http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37950&highlight=automatic+sability+control+off+mod

[s1rx]

"Must' gives me no latitude.
Why couldn't the interception of wiring be done inside the cab at either C23 (pin 10 - but need to select correct one of 2 wires) or else C15 (pin3), and also at C35 (pin 14 - but need to select correct one of two wires) ?

The modification for ASC auto off (whenever centre diff is locked) can be achieved via a connection to C36 (pin 6) which is adjacent to the abovementioned C35.

The reason i suggested to do it this way is to keep it simple & easily accessible. Theres a factory earth point close by also with plenty of room to work. You could potentially manipulate the circuit to do what you desire on mentioned connectors if desired if you feel like removing the glovebox and wiring in confined spaces. if latitude is needed that is definitely an option

Momo this mod gives you 3 stage operation so:
1- traction control/stability control/abs off always
2-normal operation
3-rdl with traction control

You can disable TC/ASC/ABS only by severing the red/blue trace wire from the astc ecu & grounding at the astcu side at the earth bolt on the drivers side inner guard. a switch can be wired in there to enable toggling circuit between factory & normal operation. Or at c40 connector pin 8 in a similar fashion in behind the glovebox somewhere as kingbrown suggested.

[momo]

That's cool,

I would really like an option 2 (b) normal mode with TC off (ESC and ABS active).
That would allow for spirited driving with the protection of ESC and ABS but not the power sapping TC kicking in when 1 wheel gets a little chirpy on a quick takeoff. Is that one absolutely undo-able??

[s1rx]

Most of the power sapping comes from the stability control that i have found. When driving the challenger spiritedly with all the safety aids off even with increased boost and a steinbauer the car barely spins a tyre. Only when cornering hard will it do this or in the wet( it will spin up easily being open).

Unfortunately because of the system it would be a pretty intricate project to renable the abs function. Some testing to see how the astcu output drops signal would be needed; whether for instance it drops power to the motor or what not sure. Its quite possible to get it to work id say.

In saying that the systems there for a reason so only use it offroad and revert back to factory operation for safety & legality reasons generally.. The minister of peace/finance is usually driving ours & getting it off her is like trying to steal cake from a fat kid

[momo]

I say its definately the TC that reduces power, the TC light flashes in a straight line and all momentum is lost. When I had my PB with big power and torque it blew past that limitation and I could bag the rears at will.
*Edit - just went for a quick spin and I concur, its the ESC that appears to kill the power big time.

[Ent]

If you want to make a Challenger hopless in soft sand leave the ESC on. Made that mistake once. Also on snow/ice could not stop stalling it in 2WD. ESC has its place but not in slippery surfaces.

[momo]

s1rx, just to confirm I'm reading your diagram right:

Momo this mod gives you 3 stage operation so: using a 3 position on/off/on 6 terminal switch
1- traction control/stability control/abs off always switch up to connect 3-5 & 4-6-2
2-normal operation switch down to connect 1-3 & 2-4
3-rdl with traction control switch centred making no contacts leaving wires 19 & 41 open?

[s1rx]

s1rx, just to confirm I'm reading your diagram right:

Yes that right. Obviously the orientation of the normal mode & asc/absTC always off modes can be flipped depending on preference of switch positions but yes the rdl with TC will always be in the off position using an dpdt switch on/off/on.

I did start looking for a switch that has light inputs and thought about wiring aa positive off the rheostated dash lights..
then using the earth feed from the switched circuit to illuminate when toggled but i got lazy.

[momo]

So.... if you just want to gain TC on with RDL then you can snip two wires and nothing else is effected ???

[s1rx]

So.... if you just want to gain TC on with RDL then you can snip two wires and nothing else is effected ???

Yes there is no faults that occur. The astc ecu isn't seeing the signal from the rear diff lock ecu to stop traction control operation.

As mentioned in other threads the challenger/triton traction control mapping isnt the best certainly not as effective as the pajeros system. Its still an advantage over stock however.

It is advised to do Old Jacks ASC auto off mod if intending to do this though.

[momo]

Last question then, I've bought the switches for the job with the intention of mounting this one in the cab. Given a run of say 2m would wire selection be important? (I have heaps of solid core comms cable readily available but wire qauge is a bit thin) I I buy hook up wire then I would need multiple colours and some way to sheath them.

[s1rx]

Use good quality wire and not a lesser core size then used by factory for all the same connections.Ensure your earth wire is adequate. I used the spare bung thatd id punched for where the steinbeaur loom i had run previously enters the cab; its been loom wrapped and I sealed the hole inside & out using the telstra flexible sealant i have to waterproof it.

Additionally i used good quality terminal ends (proper insulated crimp type like factory). Then motorcycle style terminals with clear waterproof boots on the intercepted factory wires and cut accurately & orientated so i can plumb it back to factory if needed. I also unravelled and retaped the loom to hide the connectors and made the cuts in areas where most would never see it. In the corner behind the back of the loom underneath.

When i sell the vehicle i will solder the joints back together double shrink wrap and retape the loom.

As long as theres good connections you'll be fine.