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Install a pair of rebuilt second hand genuine Mitsubishi drive shaft/CVs and drive with mechanical sympathy would be my suggestion (from my memory, OEM Mitsubishi CVs are stronger that most, if not all, of the aftermarket options).
Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
Thanks guys, for solution I meant for not breaking them anymore. Like changing the angle or stretch something somehow.
In Dubai I can get used CV pretty easily but end up clacking on turn within 6 months to a years time.
Love to hear some solution for extending there life with 2-4 inch front lift. Thanks.
Even a 2 inch lift and driving hard in sand will see the joints collapse. Standard height would be best but may not be much good for constant sand driving. 4 inch lift is really going to put strain on joints.
I agree, Im running with 2 Inch and breaking one set every year. Now Im used to living with claking noise on full turn in 4x4 mode.
Hope there is some solution to this, as its a shame for such an awesome stock offroader to have weak CV joints like an Achilles heel.
With a 2" lift?
I've been active on Pajero forums for over 18 years, and breaking Gen 2 CVs with a 2" lift isn't traditional. I don't accept that the factory CV joints are weak, or an Achilles heel.
Are you definitely running genuine Mitsubishi CVs, or are all your used CVs from 20 year old wrecks non-genuine?
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
I run a full 4" suspension lift and have done for well over 70000kms on these now - Genuine mitsi CV's is the only way to go and make sure you get onto any split boots straight away.... that is what kills them.
1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
.
Yes, I was using the axle from scrap as original cost 900 USD (one piece) in Dubai with 30 days wait.
If you guys are 100% sure that brand new will stand up to 2-inch lift without trouble, I don't mind changing. I was under the impression that its the lift spoil the geometry to run axle at a strained angle and killing them.
My NL had over 300,000km on it when I sold it. It had a 2” lift, had done a lot of 4wding and sand work (including towing a trailer across the Simpson Desert), but I never had CV problems and it still had the original Mitsubishi CVs when I sold it (though I did have to get the boots replaced once).
Silver NT VRX Di-D
ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches
the genuine are not built like aftermarket - and I have found many aftermarket struggle with out geometry once lifted. Genuine should have a green in CV shell.... if it does not have that. I would not believe its genuine
1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
.
I was under the impression that its the lift spoil the geometry to run axle at a strained angle and killing them.
Not all CVs are the same.
It's not the amount of lift that causes issues with CVs, it's the angle. The angle is determined by the amount of lift and the length of the driveshaft - the longer the drive shaft, the smaller the angle for any particular size of lift. Within its class, Pajero has good suspension geometry with long shafts, so a 2" lift on a Pajero doesn't produce the same CV angles as some of its contemporaries. This "common wisdom" that a 2" lift will destroy CVs isn't a universal truth.
Then there is the quality of the CV design - as Stumagoo's report demonstrates, different CVs from different sources cope very differently with lift, even if they are all nominally intended for the same vehicle. Genuine Mitsubishi Gen 2 CVs do seem to be better than most on the market. Later models, I'm not so sure about.
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
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