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**erad** · 19-12-18, 07:34 PM

Sadly, A/C repairs are not DIY jobs. You need special equipment to degas, evacuate and then regas the system. For starters, when (hopefully IF) you get the engine running, you can turn the A/C on and observe the little window in the top of the gas drier. This is normally a black cylinder about 65 mm diameter by 180 mm long, with solid pipes going to and from it. If you have gas, you will see slight milkiness in the window as the gas starts to move.

When the engine is running, watch the front of the A/C compressor pulley. When the A/C switches on, the center of the pulley face should turn, when it is off, it remains static with the pulley still running on the outer edge of the assembly. IF it doesn't turn when asked to do so, you probably have no gas in the system and a low pressure cutout switch will prevent the compressor from running. If you want, you can apply 12V directly to the compressor - the centre of the pulley should then Thunk in as the solenoid pulls the clutch into engagement.

**stumagoo** · 19-12-18, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by erad View Post

Sadly, A/C repairs are not DIY jobs. You need special equipment to degas, evacuate and then regas the system. For starters, when (hopefully IF) you get the engine running, you can turn the A/C on and observe the little window in the top of the gas drier. This is normally a black cylinder about 65 mm diameter by 180 mm long, with solid pipes going to and from it. If you have gas, you will see slight milkiness in the window as the gas starts to move.

When the engine is running, watch the front of the A/C compressor pulley. When the A/C switches on, the center of the pulley face should turn, when it is off, it remains static with the pulley still running on the outer edge of the assembly. IF it doesn't turn when asked to do so, you probably have no gas in the system and a low pressure cutout switch will prevent the compressor from running. If you want, you can apply 12V directly to the compressor - the centre of the pulley should then Thunk in as the solenoid pulls the clutch into engagement.

what he said ^^^^^^

**brw0513** · 19-12-18, 09:31 PM

I have heard A/C specialists can add dye to the system that make leaks easier to spot. I suppose the leak has to be somewhere for ease of viewing though. And maybe a special type of lighting is required to help see the leak?

Check the condenser fan is working before doing too much though. The pancake style motors seem a bit fragile and they are a key part of the system.

Ashdown Ingram sell a genuine made in Japan Denso OEM motor for the NJ-NL A/C condensor fan. The Ashdown Ingram part number is EMX7121. I paid $146 recently.

I am planning on getting a few more bits off an NL from my local wrecker soon. If you like, I can ask what the fan is worth and get it for you if it is less than you are willing to pay? Postage would be my Christmas present to you.

**stumagoo** · 19-12-18, 09:50 PM

the dye normally requires a special light to see it (not sure if its UV or IR) but a good AC guy will evacuate the system then hold the vacuum for a period of time to confirm that there are no leaks before putting in a new batch of gas.

**disco stu** · 20-12-18, 08:15 PM

Cheers guys. Stu-dye requires UV light

I asked here while going off and doing my own research, which is situation normal for me. Doing some reading on this, its all coming back after learning about AC many many years ago and forgetting pretty much all of it.

What I've found out is that there is a refrigerant gas that anyone can buy, but only one. Its a hydrocarbon based gas mixture, a mix of butane and propane. This has basically no ill environmental effects, so its good to go for the home guy to buy and use (in NSW at least). HyChill Minus 30 is one brand of this. Bursons sell it, and typical for any enquiry I've made with them previously it is twice the price of alternative sellers! It seems this mixes alright with R134a and is good for the same oil, and apparently does the AC job a lot better than R134a, uses less power and requires less system charge.

The pajero still has positive pressure in the system, so I'm not worried about air and moisture in there. Same goes for our other cars, which are starting to get a little dull in the AC department. I've found sources of manifold gauges, leaving vacuum pump which I'm still not sure I'll need for my situation when I'm not going to open the system up.

I still have to check if the issue is with the electrics or the AC system itself, just waiting for this fuel pump to arrive to get the fuel side going (saving money, buying online and waiting for postage right before Christmas)

***
I know this habit of mine can rub people the wrong way-asking for advice and then seeming to ignore advice. I don't want it to seem like I asked you if I could do it, you said no, then I told you I could. To be honest I was hoping to get someone who had done the DIY air con thing themselves, as there are some quality skill sets on here. My attitude these days is that there isn't much I'm not capable of doing with some research and my problem solving and practical skills, I've proven that time and time again with things I'm not supposed to be able to do or told it is too hard for someone at home. Further, I'm of the opinion that if its a tradesperson who does the job then I'm sure I can do it better (I say that half tongue in cheek!). So many times I've had a professional do a job, and then I have to go along and fix it up myself, so much so that I don't trust professionals as a general rule (with a few exceptions that have proven themselves), plus I can do it myself a lot cheaper.....which see's me taking on way too many projects! I'm keen to get the AC nutted out to be honest

**brw0513** · 21-12-18, 08:17 AM

Hi disco stu.

I've also come to learn that I can do a better job than most mechanics. I'm convinced the difference is time taken (allowed) and care factor.

That is good to hear about HyChill Minus 30. Please keep us informed of your progress. I'd like to learn more.

Bursons is an odd place to shop. There is one staff member at my local Bursons that always gives me the trade discount. This often makes tools (Kincrome) cheaper than Cunnings

and parts cheaper than SCA. But all other staffers (stuffers?) won't budge on price.

**stumagoo** · 21-12-18, 09:18 AM

Originally posted by brw0513 View Post

Hi disco stu.

I've also come to learn that I can do a better job than most mechanics. I'm convinced the difference is time taken (allowed) and care factor.

That is good to hear about HyChill Minus 30. Please keep us informed of your progress. I'd like to learn more.

Bursons is an odd place to shop. There is one staff member at my local Bursons that always gives me the trade discount. This often makes tools (Kincrome) cheaper than Cunnings

and parts cheaper than SCA. But all other staffers (stuffers?) won't budge on price.

Too right about bursons - I have had similar experiences myself.

Hychill is a good refrigerent but be aware that propane and butane based refridgerents run hotter in your compressor than R134. this can lead to early failure as well. but they definately cool better as well

**disco stu** · 21-12-18, 09:56 AM

Thanks guys. It makes me wonder how on earth places like Bursons are still going, the prices I've got each time I've called have been so high that it has just been an automatic no. Maybe I should tell them that. Maybe I'm too nice-been said before

Good to know about the HyChill, thanks Stu. I'm willing to take that risk if I still go down this track. I am keen to get comfortable with AC stuff as well

**pharb** · 21-12-18, 07:12 PM

We have just started using HyChill in our workshop. None of the truck drivers complain of there AC not working until summer is well here, then trying to get an AC specialist in to get systems going properly is a huge challenge.

None of our mechanics are qualified in AC repairs, but with a set of hose and guages they have been getting good results with the hyChill.

I find Bursons great. Their trade prices might only be as good as Bunnings or SCA, but generally buying a a better product.

Repco, the traditional "trade" store is scary. Seems their retail prices are 2 or 3 times their trade price, and if you don't get the right staff member you don't get trade price, even if you have a written quote for bits they have ordered in for you

**erad** · 21-12-18, 07:40 PM

Of course, REPCO stands for Rip Every Poor Cow Off. Seriously, they do have good specials at times, but generally they are fairly expensive for their parts.

**disco stu** · 21-12-18, 07:54 PM

Thanks Pharb.

I had completely written off Repco years ago for the same reason. Mate had similar comment to Erad-Rip Every Poor Cu...stomer Off. Picked up something mundane as they were the only shop open, and it was twice what I paid for the same part a few weeks before from another shop. In my mind its great you give trade pricing, but don't do it at the expense of other customers by over charging them. It seems a lot of stores don't seem to understand that by putting a massive markup on something they aren't necessarily going to make more money, because they are surely going to sell a lot less. If it wasn't for trade customers who pass on the expense to their customer these shops wouldn't last. The two times I've called Bursons I've both times not even considered their price. I then go to another shop that is more reasonable.

I'm pretty spewing that my local parts shop just recently closed down. Rocked up there and doors were shut with stock all gone, had to go to super cheap which is not my favourite place to shop at

**stumagoo** · 21-12-18, 09:17 PM

yep Repco is a long way down my list of places to go to when it comes to parts for me now - even if they are cheaper on some things - although I was looking for a Hobbs switch for my W-M injection and after the sales person said "I have worked for repco for 27 years and I have never heard of a hobbs switch - are you sure you have the right name?" I said to just look the thing up. Honeywell sell them for around $30-50 here in Aussie Repco wanted $180 at "trade" price and I was going to have to wate a least a week for it to turn up...... I told them no issues if I had to order it I would do so myself online..... Auto Bahn went another way not having the switch - we looked up tridon's website and found the numbers for an oil pressureswitch that operated at the 4psi I wanted and I got that off the shelf. Took abot 20 minutes of mucking around and was a $15 sale but I cant fault them. Of course the bulk of my $500 in parts for the supercharger install has been bought from them over the last month or 2.

Wont use repco if I can avoid them - happy to use Bursons but after the last 2 months will go with Autobahn at the moment even if they ar ea little more expensive

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