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  • 4wd26
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 905
    • Bayside, Brisbane & Stradie

    #16
    I will drop the front pressures lower than the rear

    Whatever the rear is is what I'll run the trailer

    Mind you the caravan at 2 tonne is around the same Alex weight as the rear of the vehicle

    Towed this way all over Fraser, Moreton and teewah beach

    I would start at 16/ 18 and go lower as required

    Sometimes way lower than what some would recommend
    You can do this

    If you know what you are doing
    ML triton with some accessories
    National E Trek Libary
    Getting Out There

    Comment

    • Scouter1
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2013
      • 899
      • Sydney NSW

      #17
      Originally posted by xboxice View Post
      Thanks everyone for your help ill deflate[ATTACH]29774[/ATTACH] same as rig [ATTACH]29775[/ATTACH] the Rain is setting so not even sure ill end up riding
      Love the Holden hubcaps, classic box trailer chic!

      Cheers,
      Stephen
      2011 Silver NT GLS DiD Auto with extra bits - build thread http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=36099

      Comment

      • mattbris
        Junior Member
        • May 2015
        • 27
        • Bris

        #18
        Originally posted by 4wd26 View Post
        I will drop the front pressures lower than the rear

        Whatever the rear is is what I'll run the trailer

        Mind you the caravan at 2 tonne is around the same Alex weight as the rear of the vehicle

        Towed this way all over Fraser, Moreton and teewah beach

        I would start at 16/ 18 and go lower as required

        Sometimes way lower than what some would recommend
        You can do this

        If you know what you are doing
        would Second this

        Comment

        • dolphin
          Valued Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 3324

          #19
          with any 4 wheel drive vehicle you Must have all 4 tyre pressures set at the same pressures, not say 20 in the front and 30 in the rears as this gives the Drive Train a BAD ratio to work with . 2 wheel drive cars can have any front to rear tyre pressures as we know but NOT 4 x 4 vehicles, the transfere case etc gets very upset .
          NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

          Comment

          • geopaj
            Valued Member
            • Jul 2007
            • 2756
            • Adelaide

            #20
            Originally posted by dolphin View Post
            with any 4 wheel drive vehicle you Must have all 4 tyre pressures set at the same pressures, not say 20 in the front and 30 in the rears as this gives the Drive Train a BAD ratio to work with . 2 wheel drive cars can have any front to rear tyre pressures as we know but NOT 4 x 4 vehicles, the transfere case etc gets very upset .
            Sorry mate but you a wrong! I have done thousands of km running different pressures front & rear without any machanical 'upsets'.

            Two points to consider;
            1. You should only use 4wd (with centre diff locked) on low traction surfaces - by the nature of such surfaces, your not going to get drive line bind up.
            2. I normally run higher pressures in the rear to offset the additional weight in the rear (ie 25psi rear, 20psi front) and so that both front and rear have a similar amount or 'tire bagging' (and therefore a similar rolling diameter)

            The late Adam Platte of the Pink Roadhouse @ Oodnadatta also recommended to me personally a few years ago that you need to adjust tire pressures to match both the road surface and axle load.
            Silver NT VRX Di-D

            ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

            My Build Thread - HERE

            Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

            Comment

            • Aussie_Dan
              Valued Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 4088
              • Cairns

              #21
              Originally posted by geopaj View Post
              Sorry mate but you a wrong! I have done thousands of km running different pressures front & rear without any machanical 'upsets'.

              Two points to consider;
              1. You should only use 4wd (with centre diff locked) on low traction surfaces - by the nature of such surfaces, your not going to get drive line bind up.
              2. I normally run higher pressures in the rear to offset the additional weight in the rear (ie 25psi rear, 20psi front) and so that both front and rear have a similar amount or 'tire bagging' (and therefore a similar rolling diameter)

              The late Adam Platte of the Pink Roadhouse @ Oodnadatta also recommended to me personally a few years ago that you need to adjust tire pressures to match both the road surface and axle load.
              Completely agree!
              All tyres have have a rolling circumference. Changing tyre pressures can never alter this rolling circumference, all that happens when you lower your pressures is the tyre flattens out at the bottom and the footprint lengthens.
              I too run different pressures front to rear when heavily loaded - onroad or offroad.
              Cheers, Dan.
              2004 NP DiD GLX, 5 spd Manual with SMF, ARB Bullbar, Ironman 12000lb winch, Lightforce Genesis lights, Airtec Snorkel, 81L LRA tank, Unifilter, GME 3500 UHF, Redarc elec brake controller, ARB dual Batt tray with 60AH Deep cycle Batt & Redarc Isolator, Bushskinz Sliders, intercooler and sump guards, Lovells raised HD springs, Polyairs & Bilstein shocks, Milford Cargo Barrier, Philips +100 globes, 2nd set of rims with 245/75x16 Bighorns, Waeco 60L Fridge & a Cavalier camper trailer!

              Comment

              • Having Fun
                Senior Member
                • Jun 2015
                • 373
                • Adelaide

                #22
                Originally posted by geopaj View Post
                Sorry mate but you a wrong! I have done thousands of km running different pressures front & rear without any machanical 'upsets'.

                Two points to consider;
                1. You should only use 4wd (with centre diff locked) on low traction surfaces - by the nature of such surfaces, your not going to get drive line bind up.
                2. I normally run higher pressures in the rear to offset the additional weight in the rear (ie 25psi rear, 20psi front) and so that both front and rear have a similar amount or 'tire bagging' (and therefore a similar rolling diameter)

                The late Adam Platte of the Pink Roadhouse @ Oodnadatta also recommended to me personally a few years ago that you need to adjust tire pressures to match both the road surface and axle load.

                Yup! We run 20psi front - 26psi rear & 20 psi in the CT (straight from Adam Plate's tyre pressure mud map for our car & load)

                We've done a LOT of km's on some very ordinary dirt roads & never had any mechanical issues from running uneven tyre pressures.

                Comment

                • dolphin
                  Valued Member
                  • Jan 2008
                  • 3324

                  #23
                  so would it be fine to run 16 inch rims on the front and 18 inch rims on the rear and go 4 x 4 driving around the country ? would there be any upset in the drive line ? would there be some difference in the wheel revolution as in front versus rear.? i say Yes to all.
                  NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.

                  Comment

                  • nj swb
                    Resident
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 7332
                    • Adelaide

                    #24
                    Originally posted by dolphin View Post
                    so would it be fine to run 16 inch rims on the front and 18 inch rims on the rear and go 4 x 4 driving around the country ? would there be any upset in the drive line ? would there be some difference in the wheel revolution as in front versus rear.? i say Yes to all.
                    Rim size is irrelevant - tyre size is the issue. Get the right size tyres on the different size rims and there won't be a problem.
                    NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                    Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                    Scorpro Explorer Box

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