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  • vk7hch
    Member
    • Oct 2013
    • 114
    • Kingston Beach, Tasmania

    More wet floor issues.

    I have done extensive searches and found no clear results, actually most posts don't even have a reply.

    02 NM Pajero GLS
    For some time I have been having wet floor issues on the passengers side. This is not a heater core/air conditioner leak. It happens even when the car is not used. It can be replicated with a garden hose. After rain I have been finding up to 3/4 inch in the passengers footwell. I previously removed the carpet after a camping trip when it got wet and fortunately have not put it back yet.
    Deductions/actions so far: windscreen removed and resealed, glass guy claims that the seal was fine, but it has been redone anyway. (Rained 2 days later, wet floor).
    Removed headlining to check rivets for Rhino Rack track, all in place, tight and dry. A friend gave it the water torture test whilst I was in the car looking/feeling for leaks. Nothing from the roof, but water inside passengers door at the bottom (leaking from under door trim). Google searches reveal that the main culprit appears to be the front left door, somehow letting water leak onto the scuff plate, then run across to the floor. This is exactly what I found. I looked for this, and noticed a few drops of water between the door trim and the steel of the door. there was a small puddle forming on the scuff plate. Given consistent rain, bingo, wet floor. Water stains on the scuff plate reveal that this has happened previously.
    The outer window glass seal consists of two parts, the main rubber seal that you can see, and a secondary seal about 1/2 inch lower, this appears to wipe the glass. My outer seal is fractionally away from the glass at the front for about the first inch. There is a dirt buildup there as well. The rubber is quite hard as well. The lower, secondary seal was saturated.
    I removed the door trim, and there was water in unexpected places. It appeared to be getting past the outer window seal, which is fine, they put drain holes in the bottom of the door to handle this. They by the way are all clear. BUT, I somehow had water on parts that should have been dry. With the window up, even with a leaking outer glass seal, there should not have been water on the electric window winder motor, on the wiring for the window winder switch (where if comes from the inside of the door cavity through to the cabin side of the door skin), on the rear of the speaker (fortunately it has the deflector in place). This is where it was exiting the door in a downward direction, running down the liner plastic, under the trim and onto the sill. I think the wiring is somehow transferring the water to the cabin side of the door. But there should be no water on the wiring.
    As the man with bad hair said, "Why is this so?"
    Replacing the window outer rubber may fix part of the problem, but not the underlying one of the water being in the wrong place.
    I have already replaced one window winder motor in that door, now I know why it was rusty and siezed!
    Has anyone come up with a reliable fix for this? I am not interested in cutting vee notches in door rubbers to let it drain, I will loose my wading ability then.
    As far as logic dictates, there should be no way/reason for it to wick from the outside of the glass to the inside of the door panel. It should just drop to the bottom and exit the drain holes.
    2002 NM 3.5L V6 Auto GLS, 33" BFG KM3s on Patrol 16x8, front air locker, Ironman lift plus poly blocks plus rear airbags, Runva 11XP, Bushskinz, ARB Combo bar, HF, VHF/UHF radios, 9" LED spots, 2 x LED light bars, interior LED lighting, Rear drawers, dual batteries, Projecta DC/DC charger, cabin filter mod, Bisho's centre console mod, roof basket, solar panel, Darche 270 Eclipse awning, ebay snorkel, activated tail lights.
  • MSF
    Valued Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 1674
    • Sydney, Northern Beaches

    #2
    Ours had a similar problem - where the outer upper seal touches the window - there was a small gap - water would run down the inside, hit the speaker / speaker cover and then splash onto the INSIDE of the door card/cover and then onto the inside of the kick panel and onto the carpet..

    fixed our issue by rejuvenating the rubbers with some Autoglym Rubber Care and made sure to check them every now and again - we would wind the window down all the way then push down on the rubber so that it seals better against the glass when you wind the window up.. Only took may 3 or 4 days of spraying the Ruibber care and pushing down the rubber maybe 2 or 3 times a day and it was never a problem after that...

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    • vk7hch
      Member
      • Oct 2013
      • 114
      • Kingston Beach, Tasmania

      #3
      Originally posted by MSF View Post

      fixed our issue by rejuvenating the rubbers with some Autoglym Rubber Care and made sure to check them every now and again - we would wind the window down all the way then push down on the rubber so that it seals better against the glass when you wind the window up.. Only took may 3 or 4 days of spraying the Ruibber care and pushing down the rubber maybe 2 or 3 times a day and it was never a problem after that...
      Thanks for the quick reply, that autostore with the initials SCA has it on special for $16 per 500ml bottle until the 11th, small price to pay for a test, can always (I hope) replace rubbers if really needed.
      Damn night shift and stores not open at 7am when I knock off.
      I hope it works for me. more to follow..
      2002 NM 3.5L V6 Auto GLS, 33" BFG KM3s on Patrol 16x8, front air locker, Ironman lift plus poly blocks plus rear airbags, Runva 11XP, Bushskinz, ARB Combo bar, HF, VHF/UHF radios, 9" LED spots, 2 x LED light bars, interior LED lighting, Rear drawers, dual batteries, Projecta DC/DC charger, cabin filter mod, Bisho's centre console mod, roof basket, solar panel, Darche 270 Eclipse awning, ebay snorkel, activated tail lights.

      Comment

      • MSF
        Valued Member
        • Jul 2009
        • 1674
        • Sydney, Northern Beaches

        #4
        No worries. Good luck with it - I am sure any sort of rubber softener / rubber care product would work. That's just what we had handy at the time. All it needs to do is soften the rubber so it's more flexible and stays against the glass easier...

        Comment

        • vk7hch
          Member
          • Oct 2013
          • 114
          • Kingston Beach, Tasmania

          #5
          Just an update on what has been happening.
          I have discovered that the water is running down the inside of the firewall following the seam in the far left corner.
          I have been chasing one "must be that" after another.
          I have through much trial and error eliminated one thing after another. I completely stripped out the hood lining, looking for leaks around the rivets holding the roof rails on, they are tight, sealed and dry (even with water running over the roof). My thought was that it was running down the inside of the A pillar.
          The windscreen has been removed and professionally resealed, whilst it was out I examined the body in that corner and can not see any holes or rust.
          I removed the front guard to check if the fresh air intake was somehow letting the water in. Around that area I discovered the sealant beads at the bottom of the drain channel appear to be cracked. Unsure if they were leaking I smeared some silicone over them.
          I seem to have managed to slow the leak to a weep now, still not good enough.
          Next step is to talk to a friend at a body works in the hope that he has seen this before.
          The alternative is to remove the computer on the LHS kick panel, and that looks like fun, NOT. That should allow access to see better what is happening up there.
          2002 NM 3.5L V6 Auto GLS, 33" BFG KM3s on Patrol 16x8, front air locker, Ironman lift plus poly blocks plus rear airbags, Runva 11XP, Bushskinz, ARB Combo bar, HF, VHF/UHF radios, 9" LED spots, 2 x LED light bars, interior LED lighting, Rear drawers, dual batteries, Projecta DC/DC charger, cabin filter mod, Bisho's centre console mod, roof basket, solar panel, Darche 270 Eclipse awning, ebay snorkel, activated tail lights.

          Comment

          • bsperka
            Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 53
            • Carindale

            #6
            Is there a grommet there for the side indicator? That was the culprit in my case. Loose grommet in the hole let water in. Sealed around it and no ossues since. Admittedly a 2003 Triton, not a Pajero.

            Comment

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