Originally posted by marty085
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New battery advice
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NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS
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Originally posted by pajaj70 View PostI still have original battery (582CCA) so others with around 720 CCA in the same size should be a fair improvement, will go this way when there is a hint of low cranking power.
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The starter motor (like any electric motor) will draw what it needs to operate. If you have a really good battery, the voltage will stay high and you will draw less current. It is the current which heats up the starter motor internals, so the higher the voltage the better as far as I am concerned.
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Originally posted by nx2016 View PostI too have an August 2016 Build NX with 32km on clock. The original battery is poor and has gone flat a few times. Possibly not helped by the fact I have installed a dash cam that is always on. I have read somewhere that you may strike trouble using a battery with much larger CCA actually affecting the starter motor as the current may be too high thereby reducing the life of the starter motor. Is this correct?
I hope whoever told you that piece of crap is not in the automotive industry. A battery is only a storage of power. My 130 amp battery doesn't suddenly push 130 amps onto my 2 amp camp light when I switch it on. Too small a cranking battery will see the starter struggle and this could lead to issues. The current is only drawn when required. Too high a voltage will ruin an appliance..say 24 volts instead of 12.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by Dicko1 View PostI hope whoever told you that piece of crap is not in the automotive industry. A battery is only a storage of power. My 130 amp battery doesn't suddenly push 130 amps onto my 2 amp camp light when I switch it on. Too small a cranking battery will see the starter struggle and this could lead to issues. The current is only drawn when required. Too high a voltage will ruin an appliance..say 24 volts instead of 12.
Whilst in practical terms this is correct, your line " My 130 amp battery doesn't suddenly push 130 amps onto my 2 amp camp light when I switch it on." could be confusing or misleading. You presumably have a 12 volt, 130 amp hour (aH) battery, not a 130 amp battery. aH is a capacity, volts are a pressure, amps are a flow rate.
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Originally posted by Mundy55 View PostWhilst in practical terms this is correct, your line " My 130 amp battery doesn't suddenly push 130 amps onto my 2 amp camp light when I switch it on." could be confusing or misleading. You presumably have a 12 volt, 130 amp hour (aH) battery, not a 130 amp battery. aH is a capacity, volts are a pressure, amps are a flow rate.
I think most people are aware of what I meant.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Useless Factory battery
MMA should have to fit better quality batteries and higher capacity, as my NX 3/2016 Pajero's battery only lasted 17 months. The dealership would not replace it as it only has a ....you guessed it a 12 month warranty
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Originally posted by rossyboys View PostMMA should have to fit better quality batteries and higher capacity, as my NX 3/2016 Pajero's battery only lasted 17 months. The dealership would not replace it as it only has a ....you guessed it a 12 month warranty
Mine got 15 months. Shit batteries ..thats for sure.. Even one of the same size but a well known brand , such as Yuasa, would be better.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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For what it's worth, I just replaced the battery on my NW. It was the original from manufacture - stamped April 2014 so about 4 1/2 years. I knew it was on its way out - cranking was a little slow but it finally died after I connected an air compressor for about 10 minutes on it without the motor running (would have been maybe 25 -30 amps draw only for that short period) and next thing the car would not start...2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.
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Thanks to all the posters on this thread, all good info in helping me choose a new battery. Just out of interest, my original battery lasted 6 years and 9 months! There are a number of factors in it's long life:
1. It has had a very easy time, it is purely a starting battery
2. I have always used Inox Battery conditioner in my batteries. It helps reduce sulphation and I am sure is the secret to long life. (I'm thinking of taking a small nip each day to see if it can prolong my own life!!! No please don't - it contains salts of heavy metals)
3. Try to put the battery on a slow trickle charger regularly or at least every 6 mths or so.
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