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Hey guys I've posted this on the Triton thread in case it helps research a better solution to the EGR defeat. Just putting here also to spark (no pun intended) someone electronically smart and keep the development alive.
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Gidday guys, I've been reading through this and the Challenger forum over the last week in prep of picking up our Challenger today. I've been battling to get through this thread to see if there is a definitive solution and if my "direction" had been covered fully. I'm bringing this idea from my Jeep experience which is a 2003 Grand Cherokee running the 2.7 Mercedes CRD., It too has the same EGR system so this EGR crap has not been improved upon in the last 10 years. Having had to remove my manifold and clean myself and then doing the EGR mod after I was adamant I'd do the same to any subsequent diesel. That now being the wifes PB. You all know well the issue is not just rhe exhasut soot recirculating through the engine but the oil blowby mixing with the soot and creating an incredibly sticky and thick tar like substance. I spent days and many many litres of strong degreaser and other chemicals getting my manifold clean.
Any my requirement for a solution is to be non detectable under normal circumstances and easily reversible although if point one is achieved well enough point 2 is never likely to be required. This leads to an electrical solution in my book as any mechanical solution, other than your blanking plate is fairly easy to detect in a roadside examination.
You guys appear to be close but not quite there (no offence meant). The idea I think is to disconnect the EGR signal to stop it functioning, easy pull the plug. But as you know we have to deal with the smarts of the ECU. The throtte body to me is not the answer as the means to deal with it are not stealth, also I think it is a secondary function and not a controlling function of the EGR. I see info on tricking the MAP sensor which makes sense and ties in with some of the fault codes but if I compare to the MB (Merc) system I not entirely sure if it is the true heart of the matter.
I see a fleeting mention of the MAF but then comment as it is a big can of worms but I think the mods to the throttle butterfly and the MAP are more so. This is where I'd like to bring in the knowledge base of the MB system and solution in the hope that Mitsubishi have actually done the same and that soemone on here can test it out. Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to test, nor do I have the scan tools to reset any codes and as this is supposed to be my wifes daily driver I will be skinned alive if any codes, CEL's or limp modes trigger.
I know this is an older engine and monitoring processes may have changed over the years but I don't see any talk from you guys to rule out if the MAF is the real monitoring source for EGR operation. It is possible that some manufacturers have stuck with a proven and therefore simple procedure. I'm not entirely up with exactly what is happening with the MAF sensing but itis to do with the MAF sensing less cold air intake requirement when the EGR is open as the extra air flow required has already come from the EGR. This is why the MAF can sense what is happening even when it is upstream of the introducd EGR. The thread on the MB forum in relation to my engine didn't go into much detail of exactly how they tested the voltage signals so I can't help there but the wiring mod is very simple so I'm hoping simple to test for someone with electronic smarts. The signal wire from the MAF back to the ECU is spliced into to give it a modified signal when the EGR valve is energised and in fact non of the wiring actually had to be cut so is easily reversible and being simple wiring easy to hide in the loom.
I'll try and explain the wiring mod to see if it makes any sense to how it works but at the end of the day it is about dropping the voltage the MAF sends to the ECU when the EGR is energised. So a resistor is wired into the 12 volt feed to the EGR solenoid/motor (1K ohm). The signal wire from the ECU to the EGR motor has a diode and resistor (470 ohm) wired into it and this is tee'd into the MAF wire. The modified 12v wire is tee'd into the EGR signal wire (which now goes to the MAF wire) downstream of the diode. I'll post a pic of the wiring diagram to explain better when I download one across.
This is a very simple circuit that completely disables the EGR in most MB diesels of that era that use an electrically triggered vacuum solenoid to open the EGR. The EGR valve and plumbing is not touched, the vacuum line remains connected just the plug is disconnected. I spliced into my loom downstream and ran my wiring inside the loom all taped up and totally invisible but some have simply plugged their wires into the EGR plug then onto the MAF wire. This mod is not detectable by any MB diagnostics as the ECU thinks everything is functioning as normal. I expect the only way it could be detected was with sniffing hardware etc.
The other good thing about this mod or one similar is the MB one for my engine cost me about $2.50 and cause you have to buy the resistors in a 6 pack that cost could actually cover a couple of vehicles, it's that cheap. Fingers crossed.
Hope I'm not upsetting anyone but thought this could be another avenue to investigate. I really want to disable the EGR but cannot do it with plumbing into the MAP sensor or codes coming up. The hole in the plate may be better than nothing but to me is not a proper fix and will just slow down the enivitable and if it starts to clog eventually may trigger a fault still.
I have seen another fix on the MB forum for a later engine which looked like it had a few more circuits in it but still the same basic principal so when I find it I'll see if I can put uop a link.
:-
Gidday guys, I've been reading through this and the Challenger forum over the last week in prep of picking up our Challenger today. I've been battling to get through this thread to see if there is a definitive solution and if my "direction" had been covered fully. I'm bringing this idea from my Jeep experience which is a 2003 Grand Cherokee running the 2.7 Mercedes CRD., It too has the same EGR system so this EGR crap has not been improved upon in the last 10 years. Having had to remove my manifold and clean myself and then doing the EGR mod after I was adamant I'd do the same to any subsequent diesel. That now being the wifes PB. You all know well the issue is not just rhe exhasut soot recirculating through the engine but the oil blowby mixing with the soot and creating an incredibly sticky and thick tar like substance. I spent days and many many litres of strong degreaser and other chemicals getting my manifold clean.
Any my requirement for a solution is to be non detectable under normal circumstances and easily reversible although if point one is achieved well enough point 2 is never likely to be required. This leads to an electrical solution in my book as any mechanical solution, other than your blanking plate is fairly easy to detect in a roadside examination.
You guys appear to be close but not quite there (no offence meant). The idea I think is to disconnect the EGR signal to stop it functioning, easy pull the plug. But as you know we have to deal with the smarts of the ECU. The throtte body to me is not the answer as the means to deal with it are not stealth, also I think it is a secondary function and not a controlling function of the EGR. I see info on tricking the MAP sensor which makes sense and ties in with some of the fault codes but if I compare to the MB (Merc) system I not entirely sure if it is the true heart of the matter.
I see a fleeting mention of the MAF but then comment as it is a big can of worms but I think the mods to the throttle butterfly and the MAP are more so. This is where I'd like to bring in the knowledge base of the MB system and solution in the hope that Mitsubishi have actually done the same and that soemone on here can test it out. Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to test, nor do I have the scan tools to reset any codes and as this is supposed to be my wifes daily driver I will be skinned alive if any codes, CEL's or limp modes trigger.
I know this is an older engine and monitoring processes may have changed over the years but I don't see any talk from you guys to rule out if the MAF is the real monitoring source for EGR operation. It is possible that some manufacturers have stuck with a proven and therefore simple procedure. I'm not entirely up with exactly what is happening with the MAF sensing but itis to do with the MAF sensing less cold air intake requirement when the EGR is open as the extra air flow required has already come from the EGR. This is why the MAF can sense what is happening even when it is upstream of the introducd EGR. The thread on the MB forum in relation to my engine didn't go into much detail of exactly how they tested the voltage signals so I can't help there but the wiring mod is very simple so I'm hoping simple to test for someone with electronic smarts. The signal wire from the MAF back to the ECU is spliced into to give it a modified signal when the EGR valve is energised and in fact non of the wiring actually had to be cut so is easily reversible and being simple wiring easy to hide in the loom.
I'll try and explain the wiring mod to see if it makes any sense to how it works but at the end of the day it is about dropping the voltage the MAF sends to the ECU when the EGR is energised. So a resistor is wired into the 12 volt feed to the EGR solenoid/motor (1K ohm). The signal wire from the ECU to the EGR motor has a diode and resistor (470 ohm) wired into it and this is tee'd into the MAF wire. The modified 12v wire is tee'd into the EGR signal wire (which now goes to the MAF wire) downstream of the diode. I'll post a pic of the wiring diagram to explain better when I download one across.
This is a very simple circuit that completely disables the EGR in most MB diesels of that era that use an electrically triggered vacuum solenoid to open the EGR. The EGR valve and plumbing is not touched, the vacuum line remains connected just the plug is disconnected. I spliced into my loom downstream and ran my wiring inside the loom all taped up and totally invisible but some have simply plugged their wires into the EGR plug then onto the MAF wire. This mod is not detectable by any MB diagnostics as the ECU thinks everything is functioning as normal. I expect the only way it could be detected was with sniffing hardware etc.
The other good thing about this mod or one similar is the MB one for my engine cost me about $2.50 and cause you have to buy the resistors in a 6 pack that cost could actually cover a couple of vehicles, it's that cheap. Fingers crossed.
Hope I'm not upsetting anyone but thought this could be another avenue to investigate. I really want to disable the EGR but cannot do it with plumbing into the MAP sensor or codes coming up. The hole in the plate may be better than nothing but to me is not a proper fix and will just slow down the enivitable and if it starts to clog eventually may trigger a fault still.
I have seen another fix on the MB forum for a later engine which looked like it had a few more circuits in it but still the same basic principal so when I find it I'll see if I can put uop a link.
, cold over here, plenty of snow.
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