Rear wheel bearings

[Kumabear]

So in the process of replacing the passenger rear wheel bearing about 12 months after the drivers side rear went (under warranty at the time)

It is strange to me that both rear ones have now failed but the front ones are still nice and smooth.

Car only has 83,000 km on it just find it strange that both rears have failed, are they a different design to the fronts or do they just have a higher load on them?

Anyone else had similar issues?

[grhyso]

I've only had to replace my rears. From memory when I was looking into it the design of the bearings the fronts are a better design, possibly sealed where as the rears are poorly designed with basically no seal.

I'll let someone who has a better idea than me confirm or deny that, mine were replaced by the mechanic.

[Hatto]

I replaced my rears not long ago as one of them was on its way out. Something I've been wondering lately though is, should I have packed them with grease somehow? It was my intention to when I ordered them but when they arrived and I saw how they were I couldn't see how they could be packed with grease at all. So I just smeared a bit of grease on splines etc and put it all back together.
Am I right in saying they can't be packed and are just bolt on items?

[Kumabear]

From what I understand, they are a complete hub sub assembly and just bolt on / bolt off.

[eci_thump]

Currently going through the exact same issue. RR bearing gone at ~85k, RL bearing starting to go at ~100k. only logical explanation I can think of is the lack of a seal on the hub. It certainly feels that this sort of life out of the bearing is poor, and when the agent tells you it's ~$700 for a replacement OEM hub, you cant help but laugh. I've just ordered an OEM hub for $250 from Amayama but hasn't arrived yet so fingers crossed no dramas, not that i've had any in the past from them.

[NJV6]

I got 90000 out of the RR in my NT as well.

[Gareth]

Ive replaced the RL twice in 250k but the RR is still original and all good. Cant fault the fronts as yet!

[Kumabear]

well at least I probably don't have to worry about the fronts suddenly going bad as well.

I am lucky enough that one of our clients at work is a retired mechanic with a full workshop at home who is happy to teach me how to do the work and use his hoist for a small donation, I should get out of it for $250 or so including the part.

I am also glad I didn't bother with the $640 OEM ones, paid $150 from peps for the part.

[kiwi1973]

I just checked my front ones in the weekend to see if with nearly 200,000km's on the car there were any signs of them needing attention soon, but they are absolutely fine. Both my rear wheel bearings have been replaced though. I'm surprised to see the number of you with rear bearings not even lasting 100,000km though.

Since parts from Amayama are genuine OEM, the price difference between $250 vs $700 at the dealer must all be extra margin that just lines someone's pocket. It's astonishing the markup that is put on car parts.

Whenever we travel remotely now spare wheel bearings (hub assembly) are always carried. I can replace these side of the road (or track) if need be. A collapsed wheel bearing will leave you completely stranded. It's happened to me once and never again. An essential part to carry in spares box.

[Luke68]

Sorry to bring up and old thread, but I seem to be getting bearing noises from the front of my 2010 3.2 NT Wagon. Haven't had a chance to pull the wheels off due crook back. I have read that there are two types of hubs. 12mm and 14mm mounting holes. Can anyone out there tell me what the other difference is apart from almost double the price for a hub????
Why could you not just drill and tap a 14mm hole into the 12mm hole??? (If that's possible. Should try and experiment on a piece of metal and see I suppose).
Sometimes I whish for the simple days of my Discovery 1 Diesel with solid axles?
Cheers for your help
Luke

[craka]

If you punch your VIN into some where like this https://partsouq.com/

it should list the part number of the hub for your vehicle, you than should be able to look for equivalent aftermarket hub that way as well.

[kiwi1973]

I believe that in addition to 12mm vs 14mm there is a slight difference in the spacing. Be sure to get the right part rather than trying to modify something to suit. If you order through Partsouq you'll get genuine OEM quality at about 1/3 the dealer price. You may well find even cheaper on Ebay, but it may be complete crap. Partsouq is a good way to go

[MarkAW]

Both my rear bearings on NX Pajero need replacement at 140,000 km. Rear passenger is alot worse then rear drivers so replacing both.

Picked up 2 genuine (at least i hope they are) rear bearing hubs from Mits Fix in Bayswater for $740

Mitsubishi dealer quoted $600 something each.

Anyone had any dealings with Mits Fix?

[Axis]

Sorry to bring up and old thread, but I seem to be getting bearing noises from the front of my 2010 3.2 NT Wagon. Haven't had a chance to pull the wheels off due crook back. I have read that there are two types of hubs. 12mm and 14mm mounting holes. Can anyone out there tell me what the other difference is apart from almost double the price for a hub????
Why could you not just drill and tap a 14mm hole into the 12mm hole??? (If that's possible. Should try and experiment on a piece of metal and see I suppose).
Sometimes I whish for the simple days of my Discovery 1 Diesel with solid axles?
Cheers for your help
Luke

I replaced one rear bearing and I think that the 12mm are for short Wheel base Gen 4 and Gen 3, and the 14mm are for long wheel base Gen 4. Not sure of any other differences though.

[reciprovac]

Currently going through the exact same issue. RR bearing gone at ~85k, RL bearing starting to go at ~100k. only logical explanation I can think of is the lack of a seal on the hub. It certainly feels that this sort of life out of the bearing is poor, and when the agent tells you it's ~$700 for a replacement OEM hub, you cant help but laugh. I've just ordered an OEM hub for $250 from Amayama but hasn't arrived yet so fingers crossed no dramas, not that i've had any in the past from them.

Cannot understand this,my Nw second hand,with its servicing done at Ayers rock garage still has original wheel bearings at 160,000.
Would have had plenty of sand if inside the door trims are any indication.
had them checked recently and no free play or noise with plenty of life left.
I would suggest 85,000 is very premature and should be claimable.
Regards