Replacing front disc rotors

[ARGS]

Hi guys, so the landcruiser trip is fast approaching so I thought it best I get the front rotors replaced (front left is a little warped, got the pedal push back going on!). Have stripped everything down ok, thought i'd pull right back to stub, suss out wheel bearings etc etc. My issue is that I can't get the damn bolts that hold the disc to the hub undone!!! Is there a trick to em, I've given up this arvo, left them bathing in wd40





Oh and I'm guessing the groove in the underside of the lock nut isn't meant to be there???

[Scoteye]

You can have them measured by a professional and see if they will take a machine, if they will you wont need to split them and if done correctly will get rid of the feedback, Or the pros will tell you they are beyond it.

Removing them, rattle gun, or bolt it all back together and have a buddy stand on the pedal and get out a decent sized breaker bar and single hex socket so not to strip the corners / minimise. If the rotor slips you may have to start the car and stand on the brake pedal to lock them sufficiently.

Just use common sense so not to hurt yourself if you require the engine running and use as a last resort.

[Stevie-Ray]

Not worth overlooking any wear in the brakes-dept, as any worn bits will tend to overheat quicker, then they distort, which leads to quicker wear, which leads to....etc.!

This person left their brake-service just a tad too long!!!



Steve

[Scoteye]

Forgot to mention because the rotors are bolted to the hubs they should be checked for run-out on the rotor surface once bolted together again. But I think you would be hard up finding anyone who pays that much attention to detail

However it is generally not required just don't freek if there is still something not quite right eg feedback, you may need to get them skimmed to reduce the run-out.

[Scoteye]

Not worth overlooking any wear in the brakes-dept, as any worn bits will tend to overheat quicker, then they distort, which leads to quicker wear, which leads to....etc.!

This person left their brake-service just a tad too long!!!



Steve

LOL havent seen a rear go that far, but had the pleasure to do fronts on an EB that had worn the pads to the calliper pistons which would then "dig in" between each vent in the rotor Talk about stopping power.... INSTANTANEOUS at least at the couple of klms per hour i was doing taking it around the back to the shop.

[Pauly Faulkner]

If money is of concern you may be able to just have them machined if there's enough meat left.

On the car and use of a breaker bar or rattle gun is probably the best way to get them out.

[Barneymutt]

What I did with mine was put it in a vice and used a breaker bar and a piece of pipe.
They are pretty tight. You will then have to lever the two parts apart.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean when you reassemble.

[ARGS]

hmm vice that's an idea.. now, just need to get a new vice lol. Might take em both down to the brake shop and get them to do it, probably take 2 seconds for them. Plus I have the get the extended brake line for the rear made up.

will report back

[ARGS]

righto, bit of an update, bunch of prices too, got both sides off and cleaned down to the stub. Leaving the hub attached to the disc as there 'should' be enough there to machine. I tee'd up a shop near work to machine em, $25 each. He's knocking up a 450mm extended rear brake line for me to charging me $45.

Going to do the wheel bearings (they're not too bad but while I'm in there) as well, getting some timkins for $44 a side. New pads as well $45.

Hopefully if the discs are fine for the machining should be nice clean and new from stubs out!! Keen to see how the old girl behaves with the anchors throw down once it's all back in and new as rears are all cleaned and new pads too

[Scoteye]

You can minimise potetial issues if you replace the bearing cones before machining. They keep yor rotors running true. if there is any difference between old and new it cansometimes require another machine.

[watto]

ARGS, just wondering where in Bris you are getting your discs machined? Seems like a good price. I am keen to get mine done somewhere on the Northside.

[ARGS]

place at beenleigh, Beenleigh brakes I'm pretty sure. Getting em done Thurs

[Barneymutt]

Mob at Browns Plains did mine for $25 ea as well.

[ARGS]

Righto, brakes done! Had a bit of a clusterfk when getting em machined. First there wasn't enough on one of them to be machined and be above requirement, so opted for some newies. Then couldn't get the bolts out, they had to hit em with heat etc etc -> need new bolts. Tried a set from bolt shop but the heads were too fat and couldn't torque em Brake shop recommended getting 12 from MMM so rang em and they wanted $10.37.. each! With that I went back to the bolt shop (who were endlessly helpful - Bolt and Industrial on project st salsbury). The only other possiblilty was a hex head allen key type bolt (12.10 tensile so more than enough) and presto they fit! Needed some trimming at the front as you can see by the pics but at $17 compared to $140 not even a second though!!



So she's got new everything from stub out now, rotors, pads, bearings, grease etc. Bedded the pads in just now and all the pedal movement is gone and a MUCH better feel is the result. Noticeable difference in the stopping power which is fantastic! It's all been worth it in the end lol and only 5 days before the man trip too!! Talk about cutting it fine!!

Here's some pics that I just took with the led bar on the rack, the lift etc.

[Paintchips]

Can someone enlighten me to the ways in which the rotors come off? I'm where ARGS was at in the very first picture in his initial post. I can't get the rotor to pull off the axle.