harmonic balancer and turbo

[TimTams]

Hi guys,

I've just bought a 2.8t manual pajero which needs a harmonic balancer (it's a project car ). No dramas there as I've had them off on a 4m40 before - but is there anything I need to know when putting on the new one? Should I use loctite, and does anyone know the torque spec? Previously I just did it up "bloody tight" and never had any issues but I want to make double sure....

The car also has a minor issue with keeping the oil inside its engine As a result it's all over the engine bay from top to bottom. The owner has described it as a tired turbo that 'blows oil' but the only turbo issues I've heard of (relating to oil) are either blasting it out the tailpape in the form of blue smoke, or blasting it down the intake and grossing up the inside of the intercooler (or causing diesel runaway in extreme cases). Am I right in assuming this is a misdiagnosis? I'm more suspicious of a blown head gasket between an oil gallery and the outside due to the sheer quantity but there's no coolant in the oil or vice versa and the motor runs great - no lost compression I'll be picking the car up on wednesday so I can degrease it all and have a closer look then

One last question: does anyone know the part number / where to buy a new glow plug control module? Where abouts does that part sit on the vehicle?

It's a good car otherwise, really straight and well looked after. I've sighted receipts for a new gearbox and clutch put in not that long ago too

Cheers,
Tim

[TimTams]

Have trawled the forum and found some references that indicate the glow plug control module contains a relay which triggers the solenoid... If that's the faulty part it should be an easy repair

Does anyone know what is normally in the area between the bottom slot for the stereo and the cigarette lighter plug? The previous owner cut that space out to fit in a uhf radio

[TimTams]

I ordered this gasket kit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/162544708153
and this harmonic balancer: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252348051363

Did a quick search online and it seems the Nuline balancers seem pretty common and are sold through Bursons so should be reasonably quality. The gasket kit looks cheap and nasty but I'm crossing my fingers that the head gasket doesn't need replacement

[erad]

Do NOT use Loctite when putting the balancer on unless the shaft is stuffed and you want to sell the beast. Balancers are hard enough to get off at the best of times. They rust on as well, so when assembling it, I would use neverseize or at least a layer of grease. As for tension on the bolt. my Max Elery manual says 323 N-m as the torque. That is tight...

[TimTams]

Do NOT use Loctite when putting the balancer on unless the shaft is stuffed and you want to sell the beast. Balancers are hard enough to get off at the best of times. They rust on as well, so when assembling it, I would use neverseize or at least a layer of grease. As for tension on the bolt. my Max Elery manual says 323 N-m as the torque. That is tight...

Cheers for the info!

[TimTams]

Was tossing up ordering a whole new turbo, or ordering a cheap turbo, but ended up compromising and ordering a Kinugawa cartridge for my existing housing, since it's in good shape. I've never had a turbo apart before so I guess it'll be a learning exercise



I've also got some new Bosch glow plugs on the way, a replacement front main seal, and some gasket goo to do the rocker cover seals. I found out some head gaskets go for nearly $240 so I'm hoping my $40 one isn't a complete waste of time. I've paid for it and prefer to fix this truck up cheaply, so if it fails, I guess I'll just spend another weekend pulling it apart

Also built a tool to hold the crank while I tighten the harmonic balancer bolt but it broke... I'll have another crack at it with some thicker steel

[starjunk]

I've always been hesitant to pull turbos apart due to balancing etc but if the cartridge is balanced it shouldn't be an issue. As for the oil all over the engine, I'd be looking for a leak near the front, such as oil pump, or where the oil pressure sender unit screws on.... If the leak was due to Turbo oil connections, it would be more likely to show oil from there back, and driver's side only. Just a thought. I once had the oil sender unit let go on my 4m40, and within seconds the engine bay was covered from there back, on the passenger side. The rest was clean. So look for clean parts of the engine bay, and work back from there to find the offending oil haemorrhage.... After a good degrease and a subsequent short drive of course :-)

[BBP]

Which Bosch glow plugs?. I had a shocking run with the Bosch ones usally listed as ok for the 4m40. Barely lasted 6 months. Changed to hkt glow plugs and not a problem since.

[TimTams]

Thanks starjunk. Front passenger side is the only clean spot - sender is OK. I did look there as I've had it happen too. Front is pretty oily too so I have a feeling it might be a combination of main crank seal and something around the turbo, possibly the head. A mechanic has written "suspect head gasket external oil leak" on one of the receipts I got with the car. The previous owner was quite happy to just let it leak for a long time so it's really caked up under there

The top right-hand of this pic kinda shows how much of a mess had been made. It was all over the firewall too. Should have taken a 'before' shot with the manifolds off



Finally got the turbo and manifolds off though, so gave it a good de-grease. Really happy with the result



Pretty clean in there so should be easy to rebuild. Fingers crossed


This is the beast:



Might be an old truck but you can't beat that 90's comfort



BBP, they're the GPF-119 that you had a bad experience with, but I notice in your post it sounded like you have a post '96 model... I'll see how they go, mine is a '95 4M40 turbo.

[TimTams]

got the turbo apart today. Had to clamp the turbine housing in the vice and whale on the compressor with a hammer to get them apart once the clamp was off, then that circlip was a bitch and I wasted an hour on it. My fault for not quite having the correct tool. Bit stumped to discover the blades all in perfect condition, no axial play whatsoever, and only minimal side-to-side play which is to be expected. Unless the oil seal can let go without the turbo wearing out, there's nothing wrong with this turbo



Shiny


Took the rocker cover off to find two cylinder head bolts missing and a pretty good indication of where the oil was getting out through the front of the engine. It would explain how it got all over the engine bay. Not sure who worked on this previously, whether it was the last owner or a mechanic but holy balls there's some dodgy stuff going on with this car

Leaky oil at the front

[BBP]

That's them gpf-119, in my experience total crap. I think maybe they could not cope with the timer where the glowplugs remain energised for up to 2 mins after engine starts. Or at least they do on my nl, as I have measured and timed it. Changed to hkt and still going now. I think the Bosch ceramic ones might be ok but I did not want to spend any more money on Bosch glowplugs.

Hope the heads ok if missing bolts. What some people do eh!.

[starjunk]

That's them gpf-119, in my experience total crap. I think maybe they could not cope with the timer where the glowplugs remain energised for up to 2 mins after engine starts. Or at least they do on my nl, as I have measured and timed it. Changed to hkt and still going now. I think the Bosch ceramic ones might be ok but I did not want to spend any more money on Bosch glowplugs.

Hope the heads ok if missing bolts. What some people do eh!.

Same experience with the Bosch glow plugs in my NJ. Lasted a few months. Switched to some that were meant to be for a Toyota Bongo van (can't recall the brand, I think they were NGK or HKT or something and they were still going strong the day I sold the NJ. Not Bosch anyway. :-)
Pity because usually Bosch make good gear.

[TimTams]

Got the beast back together and it's no longer leaking oil... bit of a win there. Still has a lot of blowby though. I think it might be due for new rings or a bottom end only 350k kms. I can tell the head has been replaced as the precombustion chambers aren't ceramic. I kind of want to take the head and block to get properly machined and have the bearings / clearances / etc inspected to make sure the head swap wasn't a cock-up but ... eugh, the cost. Not to mention time involved in stripping the motor down again. It's hardly a five minute job

EDIT: OK, blowby isn't as bad as I thought. With the PCV hose into a clear bottle it's only a little dribble of oil which I guess is 'normal' for an engine of this vintage. I did forget to do the final torque sequence on the head bolts though... I'll have to pull the rocker again and finish it off. Woops.