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  • Cluless
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2015
    • 30
    • Queensland

    Brake Pads and Rotors

    Hi All,
    We have an MY15.5 GLS Pajero which is my wifes daily driver and we are just about to clock up 40,000km's and I was just wondering if anyone has had to replace the brake pads yet or had any issues with the brakes at all?
    I only ask as we previously had a Hyundai ix35 and at 45,000km's we were told it needed all new brake pads AND rotors to the tune of $1,200 simply because the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads for passenger car like stopping.
    I just want to get an idea of whether this might be a similar thing we might experience in the Paj and what it might cost me.
  • Seigried
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2016
    • 732
    • brisbane

    #2
    Certainly not on my nw 75000 on it

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

    Comment

    • Kimmy
      Junior Member
      • Aug 2014
      • 27
      • Adelaide

      #3
      I've changed mine front at 110000 km and rear still got 7mm at that time.

      Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

      Comment

      • Cluless
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2015
        • 30
        • Queensland

        #4
        Thank you guys, that's very reassuring.
        I was pretty disappointed with the Hyundai.
        I got 160,000km's out of the rotors on my old GU and they just needed a skim because they were a bit warped from towing a boat.

        Comment

        • NTBenny
          Senior Member
          • May 2017
          • 365
          • Newcastle

          #5
          $1200 for Hyundai pads and rotors, wow!

          I buy all my brake parts from Matt at Race Brakes Sydney and I've never been able to find anyone cheaper. He can supply everything from mild to wild shipped to your door.

          Benny.
          2011 NT Pajero Platinum, DCS 80AH Extreme Battery, Stedi 8.5" LED driving lights, Bushskinz side steps & bash plates, Provent 200, Auto-mate TC lockup, Derale fan forced trans cooler, custom 3inch exhaust, JT intercooler, Bilstein + Lovells 2 inch lift, Airbag Man bags, DBA slotted rotors, braided brake lines, diff+gearbox+transfer breathers, Redarc boost & EGT gauge, Tuned by TME 141rwkw 598nm.

          Comment

          • slowcoach
            Member
            • Apr 2014
            • 79
            • SA but travelling around Oz

            #6
            My 2009 NT has 121,000kms on it and still has original rear brake pads and rotors
            Front needed pads only at 95,000kms

            40,000kms is much too low imho.
            Good luck with it.
            TJM snorkel, Smartbar, Firestone air bags, SPV mod, Thumper Redback Extreme agm, Donaldson fuel filter, Bridgestone LT 697 AT, McHitch tow hitch 3.5t, Redarc 2550 bc-dc.

            Comment

            • Quietguy
              Valued Member
              • Jun 2011
              • 537
              • Forster, NSW

              #7
              Originally posted by Seigried View Post
              Certainly not on my nw 75000 on it

              Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
              Nor on my NW with 95,000

              David

              Comment

              • Pwoffey
                Valued Member
                • Jul 2013
                • 980
                • Adelaide

                #8
                On my NW, which has done a fair amount of outback towing, the tech at the 90,000km service (actually done at 92,000km) reported I had 7mm left on the front pads and 5 mm on the back. I'll get at least the rear pads done in the next 5-10k.
                BY13/MY14 Pajero NW GLX Auto, Cooper ST Maxx, factory towbar, Drifta drawers, SmartBar, Airtec snorkel, Koni Raid 90 front, Dobinson IMLrear shocks with Kings 34-HD springs front, 35-EHD rear, Brown Davis i/c, sump and transmission bash plates, Piranha diff breathers, Fuel Manager pre-filter, LRA 81L auxiliary fuel tank, Piranha steel battery tray, Sherpa 9500 lb winch, HPD catch can, LockUp Mate, Harrop front e-locker, DBA T3 rotors and Xtreme pads, Mark's 4WD reduction gears

                Comment

                • MARKx4
                  Member
                  • Dec 2015
                  • 132
                  • Penrith

                  #9
                  130k on my NW, replaced rear pads and front almost due. Standard rotors.

                  Comment

                  • ticky
                    Valued Member
                    • Jan 2015
                    • 1318
                    • Adelaide

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Cluless View Post
                    Hi All,

                    simply because the rotors wear at the same rate as the pads for passenger car
                    DONT EVER GO BACK O THAT MECHANIC!!!!!

                    Rotors wearing at the same rate a pads, WHAT A LOAD OF CRAP.

                    Mate, I have 130,000 on my NT, and I have replaced the Front pads, but I cant remember if I have done the rears or not.

                    The best thing you can do is find somebody who is doing theirs and learn how to do your own. Its an easy job and you dont need a lot of mechanical knowledge to be able to do them.

                    My Son has a VE Commodore and he was told about 18 months ago that he needed new pads, so he bought the new pads and ask me to put them in. When I had a look, we decided to put the new pads in the shed until he needs them. He is still driving on the old ones.

                    Brake Pads and Rotors are the biggest scam in the Mechanical Game. And don get them Machined. Machining rotors is nothing more than upselling 90% of the time.

                    Steve
                    2009 NT VRX, Rear Battery Pack, 18" Bridgestone D-697, SPVi EGR mod, BushSkinz Intercooler & Sump Plates. BOO's Transmission & Transfer Case Plates. GME 3550, HID HB's and 22"LED Bar, Pioneer Avic F80DAB Audio/Coms/Nav system MM4x4 TC Lockup Mate. & 1/2 tank of Diesel

                    Pretty Stock but very Capable

                    Wish List: ARB Deluxe Bar & Winch, Snorkel, Diff Breathers, & 1/2 tank of Diesel

                    Comment

                    • dhula
                      Valued Member
                      • Sep 2012
                      • 1196
                      • South of Perth

                      #11
                      Simply question to the OP, has anyone looked at your Paj and suggested you need pads/rotors or are you basing a probable need on what happened with your Hyundai.
                      If you haven't had someone look at them or suggest that they are needed then don't stress about it.
                      The need for pads/rotors is relative to their use (and abuse). I've seen where pads and rotors have needed to be replaced in less than 40k kms and on the flip side I've seen them go out to over 150k kms.

                      Cost wise, how long is a piece of string and depends on what you want/get when it comes to replacing them.
                      For stock OEM style rotors and run of the mill pads you'd be up for about $5-600 if you do the work yourself.
                      If getting someone to do it for you factor in about $1000 and a full flush/replacement of the brake fluid as well
                      Last edited by dhula; 02-07-17, 09:25 PM.
                      2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
                      2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

                      Comment

                      • MARKx4
                        Member
                        • Dec 2015
                        • 132
                        • Penrith

                        #12
                        Originally posted by dhula View Post
                        Simply question to the OP, has anyone looked at your Paj and suggested you need pads/rotors or are you basing a probable need on what happened with your Hyundai.
                        If you haven't had someone look at them or suggest that they are needed then don't stress about it.
                        The need for pads/rotors is relative to their use (and abuse). I've seen where pads and rotors have needed to be replaced in less than 40k kms and on the flip side I've seen them go out to over 150k kms.

                        Cost wise, how long is a piece of string and depends on what you want/get when it comes to replacing them.
                        For stock OEM style rotors and run of the mill pads you'd be up for about $5-600 if you do the work yourself.
                        If getting someone to do it for you factor in about $1000 and a full flush/replacement of the brake fluid as well
                        I got quoted $375 for supply and install Bendix 4wd pads plus machining rotors for the front and the rear was the same cost. And that was from a brake and clutch shop not just a mechanic as I don't see the point of paying someone to do a job that pulls off the parts and sends them off to be machined when I can go to the one place that does it all.

                        Comment

                        • Moya
                          Member
                          • Apr 2015
                          • 74
                          • South west vic

                          #13
                          I know with a 97 E320 Merc I had it would wear out rotors as quick as pads. I was told that European cars use a softer rotor and harder pad where Australian cars use harder rotors and softer pads. Shit it used to pull up quick. Definately needed when driven like the Germans do.
                          PLUTO the NT Platinum - Bushskins - cargo barrier - dash mat - window tint

                          Comment

                          • Cluless
                            Junior Member
                            • Dec 2015
                            • 30
                            • Queensland

                            #14
                            Thanks for all the responses.
                            This is not in response to a specific issue with the Paj, its just that when it happened to the Hyundai it caught me well of guard and really didnt have the $$$ to sort it out at the time.
                            Trying to be prepared for it if need be.
                            And for those that asked, that diagnosis was actually from the Hyundai dealer after I took the car in to get them to look at the heavy grinding sound coming from the brakes. I thought it must be a fault as I had never heard of pads (and rotors) wearing down that quick but that was the answer I got from them.

                            Comment

                            • ticky
                              Valued Member
                              • Jan 2015
                              • 1318
                              • Adelaide

                              #15
                              The grinding noise would be the steel backing plate that the pads are bonded to, wearing on the rotors due to the pads wearing out.

                              It probably scored the rotors, and thats why they wanted to replace them.

                              If the Rotors werent warped, any grooves or corrugations around them wouldn't actually matter. The pads would have simply worn into the shape of the face of the Rotors, actually increasing the surface area of the pad on the rotor, theoretically improving braking efficiency.

                              Steve
                              2009 NT VRX, Rear Battery Pack, 18" Bridgestone D-697, SPVi EGR mod, BushSkinz Intercooler & Sump Plates. BOO's Transmission & Transfer Case Plates. GME 3550, HID HB's and 22"LED Bar, Pioneer Avic F80DAB Audio/Coms/Nav system MM4x4 TC Lockup Mate. & 1/2 tank of Diesel

                              Pretty Stock but very Capable

                              Wish List: ARB Deluxe Bar & Winch, Snorkel, Diff Breathers, & 1/2 tank of Diesel

                              Comment

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