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  • fuelconsumption
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2012
    • 362
    • Canberra

    Official fuel consumption figures

    I joined this forum to find out what 'real life' fuel consumption people were getting from the PB Manual Challenger, as this was an important factor for me in deciding to order one, which hopefully will arrive in the next month.

    I found that many people were annoyed at not being able to achieve anything like the 'official' fuel consumption, in some cases (actually incorrectly) blaming Mitsubishi for making false claims. Mitsubishi makes no such claim, so there is no point blaming Mitsibishi.

    As I have always been interested in fuel efficiency, I researched exactly how the 'official' figures are obtained, and have a copy of the (68 page) Australian Standard Testing procedure sitting in front of me as I write. I found it interesting to learn how the testing is done, and why it is near useless, and thought others may be interested.

    The aims of the Australian Standard fuel consumption testing are noble, to provide a scientifically robust method of fuel consumption testing that is immune from uncontrolled real world variables such as driving style, winds, temperature, hills etc. For that reason, the tests are NOT performed by driving the vehicle in the real world, on roads. So far, so good ....

    The tests are performed in the laboratory, on a rolling chassis dynonometer. The car is 'driven' on the dyno by a human driver, according to a standard 'course', namely the standard 'Urban Cycle' course, followed by the 'Extra Urban' course. A brief description of these test cycles :-

    • Urban fuel consumption defined as: The urban test cycle is carried out in a laboratory at an ambient temperature of 20oC to 30oC on a rolling road from a cold start, i.e. the engine has not run for several hours. The cycle consists of a series of accelerations, steady speeds, decelerations and idling. Maximum speed is 31mph (50 km/h), average speed 12 mph (19 km/h) and the distance covered is 2.5 miles (4 km).
    • Extra-urban fuel consumption defined as: The extra-urban cycle is conducted immediately following the urban cycle and consists roughly half steady-speed driving and the remainder accelerations, decelerations and some idling. Maximum speed is 75mph (120 km/h), average speed is 39mph (63 km/h) and the distance covered is 4.3 miles (7 km).

    While performing the test, the human driver has a speedometer display with two needles, one is the car's actual speed, and the other is the desired speed, as required by the test standard. The driver controls the 'speed' of the vehicle just as he would an the road, using the accelerator, brake, and gears (if manual), while at all times attempting to keep the two speedometer needles coincident, that is, keeping the actual vehicle speed the same as the desired speed set by the standard. The dynonometer has been previously programmed to simulate the vehicle mass, and the wind drag - more about that later. In practice the result will be variable, because of the very short length of course (4km for Urban cycle), combined with the varying ability of the driver to exactly follow the course, and personal choice of the gear shift points in the case on manual transmission. Nonetheless, the dyno test drive can be repeated and the results averaged, to give a reasonably consistent result. So far, so good ....

    In reality, it is an observed fact that the Australian Standard results obtained in this way, the same results that are on the windscreen sticker of every new car, are consistently optimistic compared to the fuel consumption actually obtained in the real world. I personally find that extremely annoying, and inexcusable. The 'Official" numbers are useful for comparing the fuel consumption of competing vehicles, but a complete load of rubbish for estimating what fuel consumption the average driver will actually obtain. The fact is, the standard test results are consistently optimistic, but WHY??? There are at least 3 reasons.

    (1) Apparently in the interests of international standardization, Australia has chosen to use standard Euro Urban and Extra Urban test cycles, which unfortunately bear little resemblence to driving conditions in Australia. For example, Australia is sparsely populated, so our highway driving, on both major highways and country roads, consists of travelling large distances, at constant speeds of between 90 and 110 km/hr. You might therefore expect (or at least hope!) that the standard Australian Government fuel consumption testing would include a result that reflects this type of driving. Unfortunately not. The closest we get is the Extra Urban cycle, at an average speed of only 63 km/hr !!!!! Well, derr, how many of us in Australia travel at an average speed of 63km/hr on the highway!! Sure, if we travelled at 63km/hr on the highway, then we might conceivably obtain the rated Extra Urban consumption figures, well, so what. What bureaucratic idiot decided that international standardization was more important than producing a result that was actually useful? Yes, I find this sort of BS annoying. It would not be particularly difficult to define an Australin Highway Cycle, giving a result that, on average, actually reflects what highway consumption can be expected. Same deal with the city test cycle, which apparently simulates driving in peak hour in the middle of Paris, at a maximum of 50 km/hr, and an average speed of 19 km/hr. Even if you live in Sydney or Melbourne, I find it hard to believe that you clock up most of your city miles never exceeding 50 km/hr, and at an average of 19km/hr. What utter BS.

    (2) Even if we adopted (or at least included) Australian Test Cycles, the errors in the Laboratory test measurements are significant. Despite what the standards people might admit, the main advantage of the Lab based Dyno measurement method is that the measurements can be done quickly and cheaply. Overall, this is still probably the only practical method, but it is certainly not free from errors. While the method avoids some errors associated with real-world driving, it adds many others. Firstly, the test cycles are obviously too short to provide a reasonable simulation of the real world. If you could eliminate all errors and spurious variable in real-world economy testing on the road, I'm sure no one would would even contemplate driving only 4km (as in the Urban cycle), and then claim that those 4km could reasonably represent city driving. Unfortunately, driving longer distances on a dyno is not practical. The next problem is that so many key variable, such as wind drag, have to be accounted for indirectly, resulting in significant errors that inherently don't occur in the first place with on-road testing. For example, I am very familiar with the 'coast down' method that is used for measuring wind drag at a given speed. It's actually not easy to do accurately, and this is one of many such cumulative errors inherent in the dyno approach. The experimentally determined wind drag, mass etc are then programmed into the dyno, which then adds further cumulative errors, for the dyno cannot simulate mass and drag with perfect precision, even if the variables are were known with perfect accuracy. Another potential issue, is that on the dyno, the vehicle is not actually moving through the air, even though the air drag is simulated at the drive rollers. Large fans are used to force air over the front of the vehicle to keep the engine cool, but it is not practical to provide an air blast over the entire front of the vehicle of 100km/hr, for example. This, in turn means that it is impossible to properly simulate the engine temperature under sustained highway conditions, and there could also be a difference due to a different 'ram effect' at the air intake. OK, so you get the idea. The dyno test approach simply swaps some of the errors of on-road testing for other errors, with the result that the published fuel consumption figures can only be taken as an approximate guide, even if we had proper Australian test cycles.

    (3) Apart from irrelevant Euro test cycles, I would expect the published fuel consumption figures to be suspiciously optimistic anyway, because much of the key data required for the dyno testing is supplied by the manufacturers. The Australian Standards department simply does not have the resources to measure all the required variables for the dyno testing. For example, the manufacturer would normally provide the wind drag data, plus a lot of other data as well that gets fed into the dyno, or into the complex mathematical analysis that finally yields the fuel consumtion number. Now, I won't go as far to say that the manufacturers are blatantly dishonest (though some may be) but it seems inevitable to me that the data provided by the manufacturers will be as best-case and optimistic as it is possible to be without actually lying, and there is considerable scope for this given that much of the key data (eg wind drag) is experimentally derived. I'll also bite my bum if the vehicle used for the dyno testing is randomly taken from the production line - you can be sure they choose a 'good' one.

    For all these reasons, the official Australian Green Guide fuel consumption figures are inaccurate, and invariably optimistic. With reasonable care, anyone can produce measured fuel consumption results that are both more relevant and more accurate that the 'official' figures.
    Last edited by fuelconsumption; 05-03-12, 08:11 AM.
    Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km
  • BigBloke65
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2010
    • 289
    • SA

    #2
    Frankly, I just enjoy driving it and for me the fuel consumption is not a big issue. I understand what you're saying about inaccurate figures and the like. It's a good read!
    PB Challenger LS Auto 5 seat (White) / Bridgestone D694 AT's / Window Tint / Hayman Reece Towbar / Prodigy brake controller / Factory cargo barrier / DIY False floor / ARB Deluxe Bar / Rear view camera / UHF radio / roof mounted DVD 11 inch screen / Bushskinz protection plates complete set / Extra set of wheels Dueller H/T / OME front springs 0-50kg / OME back springs 0-50kg

    Comment

    • Poit
      Member
      • Jun 2011
      • 103
      • Bundaberg

      #3
      Fuel consumption is important for me - I would have bought a secondhand petrol Pajero or Patrol if it wasn't. And I'm getting close to the official figures with the type of driving I do. I've found it's most efficient doing 60 to 90 kph, with as few corners and stops as possible - pretty obvious - and that's the kind of driving I do, mostly.

      I like the way that there's a lot of power sitting there if you need it (albeit often only after a few second delay!), but you can drive around fairly sedately for the most part and the engine isn't encouraging you to use all the power it has every time you drive it.

      I've been getting 7.8lph consistently (manual base model, no mods), measured at bowser and odometer, so correcting for the odo (say 5%) puts it up to 8.2lph. I'm chuffed with that. As soon as I head into traffic, or into a 110 zone, it heads towards 10lph and more, of course.
      PB Challenger 2011, white base model, manual, diff lock, HR tow bar, Bushskinz bash plates.

      Comment

      • cjmarsh81
        Member
        • Aug 2011
        • 88
        • QLD

        #4
        For those that drive mainly around town at 60km/hr the reading is probably more useful to them than a highway test. I do agree though they should provide one for Australian Highway Speeds.

        I don't see how any tests could really be that accurate anyway, depends on how heavy the right foot is. Perhaps they should do a standard trip, i.e. Melbourne to Sydney with a driver of the same weight and a car full of gear. That would be a more meaningful test to me.

        Interesting Read. Thanks
        2007 VRX Pajero

        Comment

        • fuelconsumption
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2012
          • 362
          • Canberra

          #5
          Originally posted by Poit View Post
          I've been getting 7.8lph consistently (manual base model, no mods), measured at bowser and odometer, so correcting for the odo (say 5&#37 puts it up to 8.2lph. I'm chuffed with that.
          I'm impressed, and would be equally chuffed if get those numbers when my base model manual arrives in a month.

          BTW, it is entirely possible that you odometer is correct, the only way to know is to check it against a GPS, very easily done. Speedometers universally read high for the obvious reason that the manufacturer does not want to get sued if you get booked for speeding because his speedo happens to read slightly low .... However, there is no reason that I can think of why the manufacturer should make the odometer optimistic, and if I recall correctly, several people her have reported their PB odometer to be pretty much smack on when checked against a GPS, assuming of course on the original tyres.

          It is quite on the cards that your 7.8 l/100km is fair dinkum and, if so, then I'll be out to get you when my PB arrives. Are you able to check your odometer? Actually, I usually drive with the speedo indicating the speed limit, so I'm hoping to get between 8 and 9 l/100km depending on conditions. For practical purposes I do no city miles, because I cycle to work, and because driving in Canberra is not really 'city' driving anyway.
          Last edited by fuelconsumption; 04-03-12, 07:42 PM.
          Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km

          Comment

          • fuelconsumption
            Senior Member
            • Feb 2012
            • 362
            • Canberra

            #6
            Originally posted by Poit View Post
            Fuel consumption is important for me - I would have bought a secondhand petrol Pajero or Patrol if it wasn't.
            Likewise, if fuel consumption was not important to me. then I might as well keep my existing 1993 3.0 liter petrol 5-sp manual Pajero, as it has only 160K on the clock, and it performs my needs admirably. However, I feel guilty driving such a thirsty vehicle when I am usually the sole occupant. Well, OK, maybe aircon would be nice occasionally .....

            Last weekend I did one of my typical trips out into the bush and back in the trusty old Paj, and was actually pleasantly surprised at the consumption.

            Round trip distance was 341.2km, measured with GPS, though the odometer was 5.8% optimistic at 361km. The trip was 25km across Canberra (easy city driving), then 100km down the highway to Cooma, hilly, and sitting on an indicated 100km/hr. Then a further 25km of hilly, winding bitumen, followed by 20km of undulating, winding gravel. Parked at locked gate and the real adventure began, riding the mountain bike from there. Conditions were very windy, a glorious tailwind on the way, with a stiff headwind on the return journey. As this was a round trip, there was no error due to an overall change in altitude, and wind effects would have cancelled to the first order.

            As always, I was very fussy about measuring the amount of fuel used. Filled up before leaving, with the fuel exactly up to the top of the filler neck, and filled up the same way upon returning.

            The fuel used was 36.5 liters, which comes out at a very credible 10.7 l/100km. That ain't bad for a 19 year old, 3.0 liter petrol Pajero, with a massive roofrack.

            Sure, I was driving for economy on this occasion, but still only a couple of km/hr below the average highway traffic speed. I'm hoping for around 8.0 out of the new PB under similar (highly favourable) conditions, if not, then there was little point buying it. We will see.
            Last edited by fuelconsumption; 05-03-12, 08:16 AM.
            Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km

            Comment

            • Poit
              Member
              • Jun 2011
              • 103
              • Bundaberg

              #7
              Originally posted by fuelconsumption
              I'm impressed, and would be equally chuffed if get those numbers when my base model manual arrives in a month.

              BTW, it is entirely possible that you odometer is correct, the only way to know is to check it against a GPS, very easily done. Speedometers universally read high for the obvious reason that the manufacturer does not want to get sued if you get booked for speeding because his speedo happens to read slightly low .... However, there is no reason that I can think of why the manufacturer should make the odometer optimistic, and if I recall correctly, several people her have reported their PB odometer to be pretty much smack on when checked against a GPS, assuming of course on the original tyres.

              It is quite on the cards that your 7.8 l/100km is fair dinkum and, if so, then I'll be out to get you when my PB arrives. Are you able to check your odometer? Actually, I usually drive with the speedo indicating the speed limit, so I'm hoping to get between 8 and 9 l/100km depending on conditions. For practical purposes I do no city miles, because I cycle to work, and because driving in Canberra is not really 'city' driving anyway.
              I've got a scanguage that I keep my eye on, and it shows slightly lower speeds than the speedo. I don't have a GPS to check my speedo, but going through the fixed speed cameras in 110 zones I get the impression (judging by the behaviour of others - many of whom would have a GPS) that my speedo reads 6 or 7kph high at that speed.

              The scanguage seems to agree with my fuel consumption calculations. The trip computer will show say 9.1lph, and the scanguage will show 7.8lph, and filling up shows that the scanguage figure is fairly accurate.

              I got the challenger to tow a 2 ton caravan, and I was thinking I'd keep my mitsubishi mirage to save on fuel bills, but the maths don't add up. I get 6.5lph in the mirage, but have to use premium fuel to extract a bit more power from the engine, so adding 10% to the cost, the challenger only costs me 1.5lph extra, and that amount won't even pay for rego and insurance for the mirage.

              Last time I was in Canberra I was sorry to see that it was developing a bit of a peak hour. That Northbourne ave. can be a killer if you hit it at the wrong time!
              PB Challenger 2011, white base model, manual, diff lock, HR tow bar, Bushskinz bash plates.

              Comment

              • fuelconsumption
                Senior Member
                • Feb 2012
                • 362
                • Canberra

                #8
                Originally posted by Poit View Post
                The trip computer will show say 9.1lph, and the scanguage will show 7.8lph, and filling up shows that the scanguage figure is fairly accurate.
                You will have to forgive me being a stickler for detail, but what your speedometer (as opposed to odometer) reads is irrelevant, and neither your scangauge nor your trip meter fuel consumption estimates are reliable. In other words, as matters stand, you don't actually know what your fuel consumption is, you are just guessing.

                Fundamentally, you need to accurately know the amount of fuel used, for an accurately known distance, and then calculate your l/100km.

                Your trip computer and scanguage do not accurately know either the amount of fuel used, or the distance, so forget about them completely.

                For any given trip, you can accurately know the amount of fuel used, by filling the tank to the top of the filler neck at the start, and then filling exactly the same way when the trip is completed. No problems.

                However, you need a GPS to know exactly how far you have travelled, and there is no getting around it. You cannot assume that your speedometer and odometer have the same error. The speedometer is irrelevant. You need to either directly measure the distance with a GPS, or else you need to have previously calibrated your odometer with a GPS, and apply the required correction. The odometer error might be negligible, or it might be substantial, as per the 5.8% error in my old Pajero.

                Are you able to borrow a GPS to calibrate your odometer?
                Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km

                Comment

                • Poit
                  Member
                  • Jun 2011
                  • 103
                  • Bundaberg

                  #9
                  Originally posted by fuelconsumption View Post
                  Are you able to borrow a GPS to calibrate your odometer?
                  I'll be getting one soon. The longer I wait the cheaper/better model it'll be. (I have to let a respectable amount of time pass between me scoffing at those that have a GPS, and me going out and getting one myself.)
                  PB Challenger 2011, white base model, manual, diff lock, HR tow bar, Bushskinz bash plates.

                  Comment

                  • narcas
                    Junior Member
                    • Dec 2011
                    • 41
                    • Bulli

                    #10
                    I did a quick calc after our first fill up. I got 9.6l/100 with a mix of cruise and traffic driving. Is that likely to improve as the engine settles in?
                    MY12 PB Challenger Base, Cool silver, HR towbar, TJM high loop nudge, Whisbar racks and tracks, Tint.

                    Comment

                    • j3st3r
                      Valued Member
                      • Sep 2011
                      • 445
                      • Mildura

                      #11
                      Here are some stats from day 1 recorded by a phone app called acar - sorry about the pdf just to lazy to type it all in

                      Some of the Km's are made up of towing some open road driving and some around town. I don't drive to get best fuel economy, the speedo usually is sitting on 118/119 kph when on open road, which is about 114kph by the gps on the phone. I figure if I wanted good economy I would have bought a prius.

                      So far the Km/100 is very similar to what I was getting from my VZ Berlina Wagon
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by j3st3r; 06-03-12, 11:56 AM.
                      PB MY12 LS Challenger, Auto, White.
                      Window Tint, Hayman Reese Towpack, NudgeBar, BushSkinz Bash Plates, HID High Beam Kit, 28" LED Light Bar, Oricom UHF280, Maxxis 980 A/T, Lovells CRR-69 Springs, SPV EGR Mk3.1

                      Comment

                      • fuelconsumption
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2012
                        • 362
                        • Canberra

                        #12
                        Originally posted by narcas View Post
                        I did a quick calc after our first fill up. I got 9.6l/100 with a mix of cruise and traffic driving. Is that likely to improve as the engine settles in?
                        Is yours manual or auto?

                        If the auto, then from all the posts I have read here, 9.6l/100km is very reasonable, especially given a mix of city and highway.

                        If manual, then mixed driving with a gentle right foot might be around 9.0 l/100km, and down to 8.0 for gentle highway cruising.

                        If this is literally your first fill up, then it is generally accepted that economy will improve as the engine wears in. My guess is that a 5% improvement may be realistic in the first few thousand km, and any improvement aftter that will be very small. If you really want to know, then keep a log book of fuel consumed, and distance travelled.

                        Good luck!
                        Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km

                        Comment

                        • wasarangie
                          Valued Member
                          • Jul 2010
                          • 1075
                          • Ocean Grove

                          #13
                          Originally posted by fuelconsumption View Post
                          Are you able to borrow a GPS to calibrate your odometer?
                          After 200 klm travelled as displayed on the GPS these are the readings.

                          GPS = 200klm exactly.
                          Odo = 201.3.

                          But take all the variables into the equation. How much do you allow for tyre wear? Mine are down several mm from new.

                          How much do you allow for under /over inflation.

                          How much do you allow for pump error? It does happen and more than you think. My brother used check the pumps and tells me there are at times a large differance in measured (pump) and actual readings.

                          How can you trust any readings given these and other variables are not taken into account?

                          All I need to do is show at least one variable that does not meet your outcome and it is back to square one.

                          Rough enough is good enough for me. Just drive the vehicle have fun, and if the consumtion is too high then buy a VW Golf. 4.9 average over the last year. But can I trust that?
                          SOLD MY11 PB LS Challenger Manual,

                          MY18 Ford Ranger Wildtrak, Auto. Smartbar Stealth. Warn 9k winch, Redarc dual battery system. over tub rack system. Minecorp phone mount. Folding Phone and UHF antennae mounts. 9" LED driving lights. Assortment of extras from Tickford.

                          Comment

                          • jimsiron
                            Member
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 161
                            • Mildura, gateway to the outback

                            #14
                            Rough enough is good enough for me. Just drive the vehicle have fun, and if the consumtion is too high then buy a VW Golf.

                            Here,here, bugger the consumption, just use it!
                            Life is too short to worry about fuel useage.
                            regards
                            Jimsiron
                            2010 manual in Terra Rosa, ARB deluxe bar,Cibie Oscar lights, Redarc dual battery monitor, Factory mats throughout,Redarc remote brake controller, Electraphone UHF, MMA tow bar, Garmin Navman plus the Misses, and plenty of travelling music! Towing a 2011 Jayco Discovery 17.55.3 Outback.

                            Comment

                            • fuelconsumption
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2012
                              • 362
                              • Canberra

                              #15
                              Originally posted by wasarangie View Post
                              After 200 klm travelled as displayed on the GPS these are the readings.

                              GPS = 200klm exactly.
                              Odo = 201.3.

                              But take all the variables into the equation. How much do you allow for tyre wear? Mine are down several mm from new.

                              How much do you allow for under /over inflation.

                              How much do you allow for pump error? It does happen and more than you think. My brother used check the pumps and tells me there are at times a large differance in measured (pump) and actual readings.

                              How can you trust any readings given these and other variables are not taken into account?

                              All I need to do is show at least one variable that does not meet your outcome and it is back to square one.

                              Rough enough is good enough for me. Just drive the vehicle have fun, and if the consumtion is too high then buy a VW Golf. 4.9 average over the last year. But can I trust that?

                              GPS = 200klm exactly.
                              Odo = 201.3.

                              Good work. Now you know that in your case, your odometer error is presently small. However, my old Pajero odometer reads 105.8km when the GPS reads 100.0 km. The moral here is simple. Preferably use a GPS to measure the distance used to calculate fuel consumption. Failing that, at least check your odometer with a GPS, so you know how much (if any) correction you need to make to the raw odometer reading. Not rocket science. Just common sense.


                              But take all the variables into the equation. How much do you allow for tyre wear? Mine are down several mm from new.
                              How much do you allow for under /over inflation.

                              Quite so. This is exactly why you should use a GPS to measure distance used for fuel consumption calculations. Then, you don't need to worry about tyre brand, size, wear, or inflation. You seem determined to 'throw the baby out with the bathwater', by arguing that because there are potential pitfalls in measuring fuel consumption, it is not worth making an effort to do it properly, and therefore not worth doing at all. BTW, get a bunch of engineers together, and they will argue for days about whether tyre inflation should, even in theory, have any significant effect on odometer reading. Modern steel-belted tyres have a great many steel bands running around the circumference of the tyre, so the tread length cannot change. Each revolution of the tyre advances the vehicle by one tread length, regardless of the inflation of the tyre. Food for thought. However, it doesn't matter anyway, provided you use a GPS for distance measurement.


                              How much do you allow for pump error?

                              That is a very good question, and the answer is +- 0.3%, which is the maximum legally permitted error, which is negligible. Unlike the incredibly crude method used by your car's trip computer to estimate fuel consumed, fuel bowsers are a calibrated, high precision device, and are checked regularly to ensure an accuracy of better than +- 0.3%. Occasionally they can go out-of-spec, but this is unusual, and will be detected and recalibrated at the next inspection. Occasional one-off errors are always possible in any measurement of anything, but in my experience other errors commonly made by consumers when quoting fuel economy will far outweigh pump error.

                              A good principle to work to, is to never 100% trust a single measurement of ANYTHING, in other words, repeat your fuel consumption measurements over several trips and tankfuls, and check for consistency. With experience and good experimental method, it is not difficult to obtain robust, accurate fuel consumption meaurements, that reflect a particular style of usage and driving.
                              Last edited by fuelconsumption; 07-03-12, 05:41 PM.
                              Vehicles: Challenger, MY2012, Manual base model, ECB Bbar, HR Towbar, Skinz, 8.0 l/100km. Railcar, 200cc 4-stroke industrial engine, 2.5l/100k. Mountain bike#1, 32cc 4-stroke, CVT transmission, full suspension, 1.5l/100km. Mountain bike#2, biological engine, 0.0 l/100km

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