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Found these, recovery points on genuine towbar? One at each end. Do all NX genuine towbars have these? Are they rated recovery points?
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I wouldn't use them for snatching if I could use the hitch receiver.
If I had to use them for snatching, I'd want to use a bridle to spread the load over both.
NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!
Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....
Edit: it’s a genuine MMA tow pack and they all have these points but no mention of what they’re suitable for
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Definitely not rated and definitely do not snatch from them, even with a bridle. There's a local one around here with shackles attached to those tie down loops. I cringe every time I see it.
MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.
They are Tie-downs used for transportation.... Use the Block in the tow hitch and check if your tow bar is fitted with High tensile bolts, as a lot aren't.... Been too many killed lately with incorrect snatching procedures...
Gemster....
YES. ITS A MITZY . 97 NL 3.5 GLS AUTO (Formally owned by geopaj)__ Snorkel ,2 Uniden Uhfs , Roof Console, 2"lift, TT Suspension, Dual bat, Redarc System, BFG KO2's All Terrains, 55L sub tank, Pioneer sound, Milford cargo barrier, Extractors, SS exhaust, Rear camp light, Free Wheel Hubs, Improved Rear Storage unit, Alarm, Led interior lamps...
And a 1999 NL LWB... Called 'Project Covid".. Stock Standard.
..Both with No Airbags. We die like real Men
They are Tie-downs used for transportation.... Use the Block in the tow hitch and check if your tow bar is fitted with High tensile bolts, as a lot aren't.... Been too many killed lately with incorrect snatching procedures...
Gemster....
My NW owners manual (section 6-32 to 6-36) refers to them as tow points (both front and rear) and even say to fit a non metallic bridle between them. The rear are part of the 3500kg tow bar and I can see no reason why you would not use them if you didn't have a tongue attached recovery bar. Test have shown that using a rear tow bar and having a snatch strap attached to the two front hooks /eyes has no adverse effects on the vehicle whatsoever. Go to you-tube and see some of the tests.
I've decided that I'm going to keep this thread going. Rather than hiding anything that goes wrong with the car (or that I find wrong with the car already) for fear of being embarrassed at buying an Ex-Police Pajero without getting a mechanical inspection, I'll instead post write ups on any issues or nasty surprises I find so that anybody else in future who is considering buying one and is doing a Google search (as I did) may find this thread and my experience useful in deciding whether or not they buy an Ex-Police Pajero. And I'll be sure to post more photos over time too as they become relevant.
I'll also be doing a Central Australia trip in 2019 so I'll post my experiences and photos from that too.
The fact is that this Pajero was cheap in my book. I got it for $30,950 excl. stamp duty and it has 86,000km on it. That was my budget so it was either replace my NP with a circa 2014 Isuzu MU-X or get an Ex-Police MY16. Generally speaking, the interior is in great nick. The driver and passenger seats show only relatively minor wear, consistent with the mileage. The back seat looks mostly like it was rarely used. The "carpet" on the boot floor also looks almost brand new.
Part of the value of the car is in the add-ons... admittedly the battery that it came with didn't meet minimum spec so I swapped my existing heavy duty one from my petrol NP into this NX. Now both the NX and the NP have correct spec batteries.
The ARB bullbar is in good condition. The Warn winch when new is RRP $1200 alone. Under the rear the Brown Davis aux 65L fuel tank is RRP $1500. The tyres are Bridgestone Dueller 697s with good tread which I've read may not be suitable for Oodnadatta track etc.
At the moment the roof mounted internal light in the boot isn't working, and I think one of the tail lights is suspect. I'll have to sort them out ASAP.
It came with a "complete" service history from AP Fleet. I say "complete" because it shows the date and mileage of when it was serviced but no further details. Though I have spoken to AP Fleet (in Adelaide) twice already and they were able to tell me over the phone what was done at certain services. Whether or not this service history is honoured by MMA in due course if necessary is a question that I can't answer yet.
To post my experience, my Pajero is ex rental and my falcon (XR6T) is ex police.
So far I've clocked up 250,000k's on the Paj over 10 years (now sitting at 310,000k) Original Engine / Transmission and the biggest issue I've had with it so far is the companion shafts popping out which is quite common on these models, other than that the usual wear and tear, breakdown of sensors and what not but its not once left me stranded or given me any issues.
My Falcon I've clocked up 150,000k over 5 years (now sitting at 207,000k) and other than replacing the suspension bushes (Falcon Diff bushes are an absolute joke) have not had a single issue with anything on it.
I know that ex rent / police tend to get a bad rap given the conditions they drive in but the falcon I bet I drive harder than they would at times (track days) and the Paj really cops it sometimes when offroad (think mud, climbing dunes, etc.) As long as there is full service history and nothing obviously stuffed like bent suspension components or smashed in panels then I don't see the big fuss with it. I bet the paj you bought will give you many years of trouble free motoring.
Cheers,
Marc
05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.
My NW owners manual (section 6-32 to 6-36) refers to them as tow points (both front and rear) and even say to fit a non metallic bridle between them. The rear are part of the 3500kg tow bar and I can see no reason why you would not use them if you didn't have a tongue attached recovery bar. Test have shown that using a rear tow bar and having a snatch strap attached to the two front hooks /eyes has no adverse effects on the vehicle whatsoever. Go to you-tube and see some of the tests.
My tow hitch is rusted in situ (with the towball, can't get it off!) so I have two choices, these loops or the tow ball I use a tree trunk protector through the snatch eyelet and then connect it across the two loops, I've had to do this three times and each time it has not been an issue. No deformity / bending to the loops or their mounting whatsoever.
In saying that if anyone has and idea's how to get the receiver out I'd be keen to know! Heat, WD40, my trusty 4lbs persuader all failed to move it .. can't even get the pin out!!
05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.
My tow hitch is rusted in situ (with the towball, can't get it off!) so I have two choices, these loops or the tow ball I use a tree trunk protector through the snatch eyelet and then connect it across the two loops, I've had to do this three times and each time it has not been an issue. No deformity / bending to the loops or their mounting whatsoever.
In saying that if anyone has and idea's how to get the receiver out I'd be keen to know! Heat, WD40, my trusty 4lbs persuader all failed to move it .. can't even get the pin out!!
My tow hitch is rusted in situ (with the towball, can't get it off!) so I have two choices, these loops or the tow ball I use a tree trunk protector through the snatch eyelet and then connect it across the two loops, I've had to do this three times and each time it has not been an issue. No deformity / bending to the loops or their mounting whatsoever.
In saying that if anyone has and idea's how to get the receiver out I'd be keen to know! Heat, WD40, my trusty 4lbs persuader all failed to move it .. can't even get the pin out!!
Hey mate I had the exact same problem on my NP. I ended up taking it to a bloke in an industrial area in southern Sydney (called up a few places first and he was the first guy that said yep he’d give it a shot) and he attached the receiver through the towball hole (not the towball itself!) via a heavy duty chain to his forklift and i was in the Pajero with 4H engaged pulling against the forklift while he was bashing it with a club hammer. If you bash it in first you can loosen it provided it has some room to be pushed in first. Took about 45mins but we got it out. Somebody had put the wrong size receiver in before I bought it, plus rust = big problem. I asked him how much he wanted to fix him up for it and he said $50 or something like that. Given how much effort he put in I gave him more plus a Powerade.
They are Tie-downs used for transportation.... Use the Block in the tow hitch and check if your tow bar is fitted with High tensile bolts, as a lot aren't.... Been too many killed lately with incorrect snatching procedures...
Gemster....
This has been discussed numerous times. The hooks on a late-generation Pajero are NOT just tie-down straps.
Despite not having a full rail chassis they ARE capable of being used as recovery points.
2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.
Yep, wasn't even there when I bought the car, looks like someone had a crack at it beforehand and gave up.
I'll try what was listed above, use a drag chain through the tow ball hole (after using a grinder to remove the tow ball) and chain it very closely to a large tree stump (instead of a forklift) and try and "drive" it out while hit it with a hammer, the tow hitch is cheap so not fussed if I damage it in the process, thanks for all the suggestions, fingers crossed it works!
05 NP GLX 3.8 Auto. 2" Lovell/Bilstein Lift, ARB Deluxe Winch Bar, Granke mk3 12,000lbs winch, Uniden UH015sx, HID spotties, Roof mounted light bar, Work lights, Upgraded stereo, Tinting, 2.5t tow, dual battery setup (homemade), Radar Renegade tyres, wired up dummy lights, Bushskinz Sump/Intercooler plates, home-made diff breathers (front and back) and a cheap ebay snorkel.
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