2018 GLS Rear Suspension Question

[Bladerunner99]

I have a 2018 GLS that has covered just under 30ks. It is fitted with factory nudge bar, snorkel, tow bar and Thule roof bars and Ridge Ryder 3m awning. In addition to the accessories, I carry some tools, recovery gear a couple of camp chairs and other stuff in the cargo area – weight would be in the region of say 75 – 100kg.


I have recently started to carry my dirt bike on a motorcycle bike carrier installed into the tow hitch, of the factory tow bar. Problem I have is that when the bike is loaded, the stock standard rear suspension sags considerably, greatly reducing ground clearance of the bike rack and therefore affecting the departure angle (not helped by the low height of factory tow bar).


The bike rack weighs approx. 25kg and the bike approx. 132kg. I am planning on upgrading the suspension, together with adding a bullbar and winch but that will not happen until later next year (unless I win Lotto), so in the meantime I am looking for suggestions for economical options for improving the rear suspension/sag to adequately accommodate the motor bike and rack.


Is this achievable without having to invest (yet), in expensive front and rear full suspension and/or expensive rear airbags, I will admit that I am totally ignorant on the subject of suspension and am therefore seeking advice.


Cheers.

[old Jack]

Because of the leverage factor the weight of the bike rack and the weight of the bike you will be adding at least 250kg of extra weight on to the rear axle, so combine this with the 75kg to 100 kg you have in the rear cargo area and the leverage factor also associated with this weight and you are placing 350kg to 375kg on the rear axle.

No wonder the factory suspension will be sagging, I would also be expecting the front ride height to increase when this rear weight is added.

Unladen factory rear ride height is 559mm measured from the centre of the wheel hub to the underside of the wheel arch in a vertical line. The minimum legal ride height is 519mm!

A set of replacement rear coils like King KCRS-23 will cost about $180 -$220, a pair of Aeon 5899 rubber spring assist cones will cost $95- $125 and about 1.5 hour to 2 hours to fit so another $250.
So about $525 to $600 will be the outlay.
This will enable you PS to carry the weights you want to without lifting the rear end up too high when unloaded.

OJ.

[Bladerunner99]

OJ Many thanks for your detailed reply much appreciated. How difficult would it be to install the springs or spring assist cones myself, I am fairly capable with a spanner and such but as I do not have access to a workshop manual it may take some time to install.


Cheers

[old Jack]

Link to online workshop manual.

http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero_sport_iii/online/Service_Manual/2017/index_M1.htm

Changing the rear coils and cones is not an overly technical task for the experienced home mechanic, you need a trolley jack, axle stands and basic tools (a torque wrench is also desirable) but first time around it could take you longer. I am almost 60 years old and I can change a set of coils and cones in about 1.5 to 2 hours, but I have done this many times so I know all the tricks.
You do not need spring compressors.

OJ.

[Bladerunner99]

OJ You are a gentleman, thank you for the manual link. I have all the tools so will give it a go and will install the rear springs.

Cheers

[OldEmmGee]

I would really caution against running around with a motorbike on your towbar - it is not designed for it.

You have a MASSIVE moment around the hitch receiver; there is a reason the towbar wil have a disclaimer "designed/suitable for towing purposes only" applied to it.

If you do proceed, I reccommend you regularly check the fixings/fittings and welds.....and check with your insurance company....

[old Jack]

Towbar is rated to 300kg download, but caution should still be used particularly if going off the bitumen.

Tricks are;
1. Do one side at a time so you have 3 wheels on the ground, unless you have a hoist!
2. Loosen the bottom shocker bolt whilst the wheels are on the ground, this is very tight so an impact gun or linked spanners and a steel mallet hit is required to loosen this bolt. The nut side is welded on to the bracket so do not try and undo from this side! I would also loosen the trailing arm front pivot bolts to take the load of these bushes.
3. Jack wheel off the ground using a trolley jack under the rear axle, lift wheel 100mm off ground and fit safety stand under chassis rail, then remove the wheel.
4. Brake line can easily be damaged as the trailing arms drop down, either undo all the brake line clips to get more flex or even better just unbolt the caliper assembly and tie it up out of the way.
5. Remove the axle articulation stop as this gets in the way as you remove and insert the coil when working from the wheel arch area.
6. Disconnect sway bar link, measure or take a photo of the assemble order and the exposed thread so it can be returned to the original position.
7. Remove lower shocker mount bolt that you loosened earlier.
8. Lower trolley jack down, until the brake disc is almost touching the ground, at this stage the coil should be able to be removed. You may need to flex the trailing arm down, I just insert a small bottle jack between the chassis and sway bar bush mount to get extra downward flex when fitting extra long coils.
9. Remove the factory coil then the cone spring. Fit AEON Part # 5899 cones are available from Peddars Trade $95 a pair/ $125 RRP. The cones are a straight bolt in affair using the factory bolt
10. Fit new coil but ensure there is a 10mm gap between the end of the coil wire and the locating recess on the lower coil pad on the axle.
11. Refit everything in the reverse order.
12. Tighten lower shocker bolt and trailing arm pivot bolts when the vehicle weight is back on the suspension. Torque wrench is best. Double check wheel nuts!
13. Do the other side, it will take you less time because you know what you are doing!
14. When all is done have a beer and you have saved yourself $250 and learnt a valuable skill that you may need in the bush one day!

OJ.

[Bladerunner99]

Towbar is rated to 300kg download, but caution should still be used particularly if going off the bitumen.

Tricks are;
1. Do one side at a time so you have 3 wheels on the ground, unless you have a hoist!
2. Loosen the bottom shocker bolt whilst the wheels are on the ground, this is very tight so an impact gun or linked spanners and a steel mallet hit is required to loosen this bolt. The nut side is welded on to the bracket so do not try and undo from this side! I would also loosen the trailing arm front pivot bolts to take the load of these bushes.
3. Jack wheel off the ground using a trolley jack under the rear axle, lift wheel 100mm off ground and fit safety stand under chassis rail, then remove the wheel.
4. Brake line can easily be damaged as the trailing arms drop down, either undo all the brake line clips to get more flex or even better just unbolt the caliper assembly and tie it up out of the way.
5. Remove the axle articulation stop as this gets in the way as you remove and insert the coil when working from the wheel arch area.
6. Disconnect sway bar link, measure or take a photo of the assemble order and the exposed thread so it can be returned to the original position.
7. Remove lower shocker mount bolt that you loosened earlier.
8. Lower trolley jack down, until the brake disc is almost touching the ground, at this stage the coil should be able to be removed. You may need to flex the trailing arm down, I just insert a small bottle jack between the chassis and sway bar bush mount to get extra downward flex when fitting extra long coils.
9. Remove the factory coil then the cone spring. Fit AEON Part # 5899 cones are available from Peddars Trade $95 a pair/ $125 RRP. The cones are a straight bolt in affair using the factory bolt
10. Fit new coil but ensure there is a 10mm gap between the end of the coil wire and the locating recess on the lower coil pad on the axle.
11. Refit everything in the reverse order.
12. Tighten lower shocker bolt and trailing arm pivot bolts when the vehicle weight is back on the suspension. Torque wrench is best. Double check wheel nuts!
13. Do the other side, it will take you less time because you know what you are doing!
14. When all is done have a beer and you have saved yourself $250 and learnt a valuable skill that you may need in the bush one day!

OJ.

OJ - Perfect thank you, I was going to ask if you would mind sharing your methodology, you must have read my mind. thanks heaps, really helpful.


With regards to installation, are all components able to be re-used as long as they are undamaged, such as rubber bushes in the sway bar link.


Cheers

[old Jack]

Correct, no consumable parts required.

OJ.

[Bladerunner99]

I would really caution against running around with a motorbike on your towbar - it is not designed for it.

You have a MASSIVE moment around the hitch receiver; there is a reason the towbar wil have a disclaimer "designed/suitable for towing purposes only" applied to it.

If you do proceed, I reccommend you regularly check the fixings/fittings and welds.....and check with your insurance company....

Good advice, I checked all that out before purchasing the rack. I only travel on reasonable surfaces and would not drive anywhere rough and rugged (whilst the bike is on the rack). That's what the bike is for!

[Bladerunner99]

Correct, no consumable pars required.

OJ.

Great! thanks again

[Bladerunner99]

Correct, no consumable pars required.

OJ.

OJ, Just out of curiosity, could I get away with just fitting the Aeon cone spring assists 5899 with the OEM springs, for the occasional loading?
Cheers

[old Jack]

OJ, Just out of curiosity, could I get away with just fitting the Aeon cone spring assists 5899 with the OEM springs, for the occasional loading?
Cheers

Certainly just fitting the Aeon rubber cones will improve the load carrying ability of your PS. With factory coils and the suspension at full droop it is possible to change the cones without removing the coils. It is a bit fiddly but possible, you need a 17mm or 15mm socket, 6" extension, a ratchet and a bit of patience and dexterity.

It will improve your standard suspension at medium loads and could be a reasonable stop gap before you do a full upgraded, the cones will be required at the upgrade anyway.

All you ever wanted to know about rubber cones springs is in this link.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=45233

OJ.

[Bladerunner99]

Certainly just fitting the Aeon rubber cones will improve the load carrying ability of your PS. With factory coils and the suspension at full droop it is possible to change the cones without removing the coils. It is a bit fiddly but possible, you need a 17mm or 15mm socket, 6" extension, a ratchet and a bit of patience and dexterity.

It will improve your standard suspension at medium loads and could be a reasonable stop gap before you do a full upgraded, the cones will be required at the upgrade anyway.

All you ever wanted to know about rubber cones springs is in this link.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=45233

OJ.

OJ, Thanks yet again for your reply. I read with great interest through the posts in the link you provided and have made a decision to try just the Pedders cones for now, hoping they will help in the interim.


You stated that the cones can be installed without removing the coils, will they fit between the coils, is that how they can be done, do any of the linkages need to be removed/loosened.


Many thanks BR

[old Jack]

OJ, Thanks yet again for your reply. I read with great interest through the posts in the link you provided and have made a decision to try just the Pedders cones for now, hoping they will help in the interim.


You stated that the cones can be installed without removing the coils, will they fit between the coils, is that how they can be done, do any of the linkages need to be removed/loosened.


Many thanks BR

Hi BR,

Yes, when the factory suspension is at full droop you can unbolt and remove the cone springs but it is a fiddly job that takes a bit of patience.
They will improve the performance of the factory coils whilst you consider a full suspension upgrade.

OJ.