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Got it done over 2 weekends.
The camera was fairly easy to fit. Had to remove the plastic trims of the tailgate. Top first and then side ones and finally, the main one. The wireless camera is one with a number plate frame which is a little to short for out number plates. I had to cut off the raised ridge to have the plate sit flat. I have used 3M outdoor double sided tape to secure the frame as well as thread lock for the two bolts that hold the number plate. The receiver sits behind the trim and wired up to the left reverse lamp for power. No holes were drilled to feed the camera cable, however, a little bit of the left number plate light housing had to be filed to make a slot for the cable. Note, lesson learnt in re-fitting the trims. Warm them up first as I snapped off a bit of the claw of the left trim. Using the trim removal tool for leverage makes it a lot easier as well.
I initially used an add-a-circuit fuse tap with the reverse lamp fuse (behind the glove box) as the trigger for the relay and the power for the monitor and receiver using another fuse tap on an empty fuse in the sub-fuse block (accessed via a little panel below the glove box). However, upon testing, the reverse lamp fuse is always charged. So I googled and someone said there was a loom that had 3 blue wires and one of them was the feed to the reverse lamps. I removed the left kick panel (the one with the flare holder) and found a thick loom. Tested the 3 blue wires with a needle attached to my MM and none of them was for the reverse lamp (so much for standards). I then tested every other wire and found a white one that went to 13V when reverse was engaged and 0V when not in reverse. Thus I used a crimp to crimp a wire to that wire and fed it to the trigger post of the relay.
The monitor sits in the upper storage box with one single power cable going to it to power the monitor and the receiver. The monitor has a stand which has a double-sided tape and is what I used to secure it. I also used some of the 3M outdoor tape to secure the lid to the top of the monitor. At the moment, the side gaping holes have been covered with two black cardboard box pieces temporarily to hid the receiver and cables until I find something more suitable. Any ideas?
Anyhow, here are some pics. Sorry, no photos of the monitor with the reverse camera running as it got dark before I finished.
Camera:
Camera zoomed in (note the dodgy permatex black silicone job to secure the camera. Never do it at night):
Monitor showing one side of the black cardboard box hiding the internals:
Will update this thread with a daytime shot of the monitor as well as night time shot.
The camera was fairly easy to fit. Had to remove the plastic trims of the tailgate. Top first and then side ones and finally, the main one. The wireless camera is one with a number plate frame which is a little to short for out number plates. I had to cut off the raised ridge to have the plate sit flat. I have used 3M outdoor double sided tape to secure the frame as well as thread lock for the two bolts that hold the number plate. The receiver sits behind the trim and wired up to the left reverse lamp for power. No holes were drilled to feed the camera cable, however, a little bit of the left number plate light housing had to be filed to make a slot for the cable. Note, lesson learnt in re-fitting the trims. Warm them up first as I snapped off a bit of the claw of the left trim. Using the trim removal tool for leverage makes it a lot easier as well.
I initially used an add-a-circuit fuse tap with the reverse lamp fuse (behind the glove box) as the trigger for the relay and the power for the monitor and receiver using another fuse tap on an empty fuse in the sub-fuse block (accessed via a little panel below the glove box). However, upon testing, the reverse lamp fuse is always charged. So I googled and someone said there was a loom that had 3 blue wires and one of them was the feed to the reverse lamps. I removed the left kick panel (the one with the flare holder) and found a thick loom. Tested the 3 blue wires with a needle attached to my MM and none of them was for the reverse lamp (so much for standards). I then tested every other wire and found a white one that went to 13V when reverse was engaged and 0V when not in reverse. Thus I used a crimp to crimp a wire to that wire and fed it to the trigger post of the relay.
The monitor sits in the upper storage box with one single power cable going to it to power the monitor and the receiver. The monitor has a stand which has a double-sided tape and is what I used to secure it. I also used some of the 3M outdoor tape to secure the lid to the top of the monitor. At the moment, the side gaping holes have been covered with two black cardboard box pieces temporarily to hid the receiver and cables until I find something more suitable. Any ideas?
Anyhow, here are some pics. Sorry, no photos of the monitor with the reverse camera running as it got dark before I finished.
Camera:
Camera zoomed in (note the dodgy permatex black silicone job to secure the camera. Never do it at night):
Monitor showing one side of the black cardboard box hiding the internals:
Will update this thread with a daytime shot of the monitor as well as night time shot.
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