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  • Thruan
    Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 61

    #46
    Just went out and checked my fronts. 550mm from center of the hubs to guard.

    EFS 40mm HD kit in it. Hard to measure the rear as I have rubber flares on, but seems to be about 580mm or so, center of the hub to guard.
    That's cut down bump stops, I only have about 20mm to the stops at this height.
    Been contemplating lowering it a little to get some droop back.

    Comment

    • bakerboy
      "valued 3000+ member"
      • May 2008
      • 3423
      • Perth

      #47
      Update, just fitted my gen2 UCA and BJ flip (no spacer), now have 800mm from bottom of rim to the guard with 15-20mm gap between my trimmed droop stops, so nice to have down travel again
      If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

      '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

      Comment

      • 10troym
        Member
        • Jun 2012
        • 84
        • Maroochydore , Qld

        #48
        did you get any extra lift? think it works out about the same? you had 590 before at guard and now 800 at bottom of rim? but definately good to have some travel off the stop!
        89 pajero v6 auto with more money spent on upgrades than it cost to purchase!!! ARB bullbar, EFS front and rear 2 inch suspension lift, 265/75r16 M/T's, sports exhaust, UHF, rhino racks with full length luggage carrier.

        Comment

        • 10troym
          Member
          • Jun 2012
          • 84
          • Maroochydore , Qld

          #49
          sorry meant to say "centre of hub" for first measurement
          89 pajero v6 auto with more money spent on upgrades than it cost to purchase!!! ARB bullbar, EFS front and rear 2 inch suspension lift, 265/75r16 M/T's, sports exhaust, UHF, rhino racks with full length luggage carrier.

          Comment

          • bakerboy
            "valued 3000+ member"
            • May 2008
            • 3423
            • Perth

            #50
            that 590 at the center of hub was equal to my 780mm to bottom of rim that I had mentioned before doing the swap, I got 20mm more lift, and have another 20mm in reserve from doing the gen2 UCA swap and bj flip. not sure what you mean by working out the same?
            If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

            '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

            Comment

            • ALPajero
              Junior Member
              • Jan 2013
              • 8
              • Wangaratta, Victoria

              #51
              Winding up the torsion bar.

              Found this on another Pajero site.

              The torsion bar as a lifting agent

              The torsion bar holds up the front end of the vehicle (Picture from Factory Service Manual) The torsion bar's job is to maintain downward pressure on the lower control arm. Since the upper control arm is held parallel to the lower one by the upper and lower balljoints, the whole front end steering assembly is held up by the torsion bar.
              The torsion bar is splined on one end, and fits into the lower control arm. The other end has an anchor arm (highlighted in yellow) which acts like a lever, twisting the torsion bar laterally and pushing the lower arm downward. The height of the lower arm is controlled by an adjusting bolt, which pushes down on the anchor arm, and twists the torsion bar.


              Increasing the twist So in order to raise the vehicle, one need only turn the bolt which pushes on the anchor arm. This bolt is below the point at which the torsion bar attaches to the frame. It may be necessary to put an open end wrench on the nut before putting a socket on the anchor arm bolt.
              Measuring the distance between the center of the hub and the fender lip Begin by finding the height of the front end, by measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the edge of the fender (shown in yellow). Measuring both sides, you may be surprised to find that they are not the same. This is attributable to wear in other parts of the frontend such as bushings, etc., as well as fatigue in the torsion bar itself.
              After this distance is found, place a socket on the anchor arm bolt, and give each side several turns. It helps to have an assistant measure the distance, so you don't have to extricate yourself from under the truck everytime. You may also need to use some penetrating oil and a breaker bar on the bolt to break it free.


              Crank it up! Once you have cranked each side to the level you want, drive the vehicle around the block, to let the suspension settle. If the measurements stay within spec, then you are finished. If not, simply turn the anchor arm adjusting bolt until both sides are even.
              Turning the adjustor bolt pushes up on the anchor arm to give lift The yellow arrow shows the nut that may have to be loosened Continue to crank the bolts until both sides are level



              It's a good idea to put an open-ended wrench on the nut (middle picture) before turning the anchor arm bolt. This way the nut doesn't turn as you turn the ratchet. Just as a point of reference, I had to give the bolt approximately 12 turns to gain 1.5 inches of lift. Results will vary.
              Be aware that cranking your torsion bars may cause them to wear out prematurely, since they have added pressure on them. Also keep in mind that with increased pressure on the lower arm, upper articulation will be adversely affected, and your ride may be a little firmer.Overall, I have found these factors negligible, and more than compensated for by the increased ride height.
              Editor's Note: Any time you change or alter steering components, you should always get a wheel alignment performed. Failing to do so may adversely affect handling, and increase premature tire wear.

              Comment

              • Bradl96
                Junior Member
                • Sep 2013
                • 2
                • Perth

                #52
                Required offset

                I have got a 87 Pajero , I found out due to trying to fit a snorkel that needed some modification, that it is an imported model.
                I am fitting a 50mm lift kit and want to run 265/75/16 tyres. The tyres fit even without the lift kit.

                It currently has 15" rims and will need to purchase 16" buy I am checking to see if I need to alter the offset to allow the wider tyres. I tried with a Hilux rim and only left around 2-3mm clearance when on full lock.

                Any advice would be appreciated

                Comment

                • bakerboy
                  "valued 3000+ member"
                  • May 2008
                  • 3423
                  • Perth

                  #53
                  Probably not the best spot to be asking, just curious as to why you need 16", you can run that over all size on 15's which are cheaper. Might be worth starting your own thread as this isn't really front end height measurements
                  If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

                  '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

                  Comment

                  • bakerboy
                    "valued 3000+ member"
                    • May 2008
                    • 3423
                    • Perth

                    #54
                    have measured a few stock looking gen1's lately, average front end height is around 710mm, so 90mm lift from the front end, pretty happy with that
                    If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

                    '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

                    Comment

                    • causie1090
                      Junior Member
                      • Jun 2011
                      • 21
                      • NSW

                      #55
                      Originally posted by bakerboy View Post
                      have measured a few stock looking gen1's lately, average front end height is around 710mm, so 90mm lift from the front end, pretty happy with that
                      bakerboy,how did u go with the wheel alignment afer UCA swap and bj flip?

                      Comment

                      • bakerboy
                        "valued 3000+ member"
                        • May 2008
                        • 3423
                        • Perth

                        #56
                        With my spacers, back within tolerance, slight positive camber
                        If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

                        '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

                        Comment

                        • Kyle88
                          Junior Member
                          • Apr 2016
                          • 6
                          • Perth

                          #57
                          Different in front and rear

                          I have a swb NF MEASURED FROM CENTER OF BOTH HUBS TO ARCH REAR IS 575..I put Lwb Lspings in the back... Front is 520 how do I go about raising the front end 55mm???

                          Comment

                          • wazza87
                            Member
                            • Apr 2015
                            • 178
                            • Gold Coast

                            #58
                            Lift front end

                            Hey mate,
                            I had my 2in lift installed at pedders, and gained 40mm in the front. You need to wind up the torsion bars evenly. You will also need to remove some of the uca bump/droop stop, i cut mine roughly in half to allow the front to come up enough to look close to even, without losing all my wheel droop. A new set of shocks would be a good idea too.

                            Good luck,
                            Waz
                            -jero- 1990 SWB NG TDi import, 33'' BFG KM2 muddies on 15x8 'sunnies', steel winch bar, custom rock sliders, Steel roof rack, Domin8r 12,000lb winch, 2.5" straight through exhaust, Allisport TM intercooler, Boost Tee, EGR delete, 22' LED bar, GME UHF + GME antenna, high gain fm/am antenna, duel batteries, 2in lift - Lovells springs and Gabriel shocks/struts + tough dog torsion bars, snorkel, catch can, diff breathers, VDO boost, oil pressure & EGT gauges, fusion speakers, more to come...

                            Comment

                            • Iamsam
                              Junior Member
                              • Aug 2016
                              • 28
                              • Nsw

                              #59
                              Will measure mine on the weekend as the front sits lower on the front as to the rear see what surprise we get lol

                              Comment

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