This morning the engine warning light came on and the car went into limp mode. Managed to safely pull off the road and turn the engine off. Cycled the ignition to see if the engine warning light was still on permanently - it was. I started the car and was able to drive the car home without any problems. It did not go back into limp mode again during the drive home (5ks). Checked the ignition this afternoon and the engine warning light is still illuminated. Is the car safe to drive, or should I get in touch with MMM (local dealer) to have the car checked out. First time that this has happened. I have about 132,000ks on the clock. I have a ChipIt module, EGR blank fitted and race pipe. Should these be removed before taking the car to MMM? I have had some minor surges from time to time, very intermittant and doesn't last long. Surges don't happen again for several weeks. Always thought it might have been the fuel. Your collective thoughts are very welcome. Cheers Filbee
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Member
- Sep 2008
- 120
- Jerrabomberra, NSW (just over the border to Canberra, ACT.) Suburb of Queanbeyan.
Engine Warning Light
(Feb) Pearl White 08 NS VRX (25th Anniv) DiD; Coopper H/T Plus; MM Alloy Bar; tyre lifter kit; Bluetooth; IPF900 spots; ICOM IC440 UHF; ARB Air Compressor (CKMP12) Kit; Waeco 60lt; RV4 Oztent and Ozpod; Rhino roof rack/cross bars. Trek Tech single shelf & 35/65 split cargo barrier; TJM battery rack with 80amphr; DS40 fridge slide; Coilrite bags; Oztent/Rhino Foxwing awning; Honda 2kVA; ChipIt EGT kit and race pipe.
Towing 2008 20ft Jayco Stirling O/B fitted with TyreDog TPMS.Tags: None
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Originally posted by Filbee View PostThis morning the engine warning light came on and the car went into limp mode. Managed to safely pull off the road and turn the engine off. Cycled the ignition to see if the engine warning light was still on permanently - it was. I started the car and was able to drive the car home without any problems. It did not go back into limp mode again during the drive home (5ks). Checked the ignition this afternoon and the engine warning light is still illuminated. Is the car safe to drive, or should I get in touch with MMM (local dealer) to have the car checked out. First time that this has happened. I have about 132,000ks on the clock. I have a ChipIt module, EGR blank fitted and race pipe. Should these be removed before taking the car to MMM? I have had some minor surges from time to time, very intermittant and doesn't last long. Surges don't happen again for several weeks. Always thought it might have been the fuel. Your collective thoughts are very welcome. Cheers Filbee
I think you have code p0299 turbo underboost
If you have egr blank and no hole in the throttle plate
How long have you had the egr blank in for
If youre going to dealer i would recomend to take mods off
Especially if youre paj is still under waranty
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Hi Filbee,
I've got the same set up as you. I was getting the engine warning light and limp home mode, occasionally at first and then more often. Throwing the code PO 299 plus another that I can't remember at the moment. I've done just over 160,000.
I had the suction control valve replaced and the manifold etc cleaned out. I've had no more issues. I left all my mods in place as I was out of warranty.
I would strongly suggest that with these type of mods that you have a scangauge as no matter where and when the car goes into limp home mode, you can easily clear them and get back to help if you need to.
Once I had the SCV replaced etc, no more probs as I said but if something does happen in the middle of nowhere, the scangauge tells you what the prob is and may enable you to get home, very important I reckon and great piece of mind.
Col.NS TD Exceed, Long Range Fuel Tank (115 lts), 50mm lift, HD King Springs Bilstein Shockers, ARB Deluxe Bullbar colour coded with Winch, HD Towbar, ROH RTX 17" Rims, Cooper S/T Maxx 265/70/17, Dual Batteries, Safari Snorkle and Diff breathers, Tyre Dog monitoring system, Magellan XL Explorist GPS, GME Personal Locating Beacon with GPS, Uniden UHF, Prodigy Break Controller, Reversing Camera, Updated Security Alarm System. Scangauge + Chipit Chip etc and no DPF!.
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Originally posted by Filbee View PostThis morning the engine warning light came on and the car went into limp mode. Managed to safely pull off the road and turn the engine off. Cycled the ignition to see if the engine warning light was still on permanently - it was. I started the car and was able to drive the car home without any problems. It did not go back into limp mode again during the drive home (5ks). Checked the ignition this afternoon and the engine warning light is still illuminated. Is the car safe to drive, or should I get in touch with MMM (local dealer) to have the car checked out. First time that this has happened. I have about 132,000ks on the clock. I have a ChipIt module, EGR blank fitted and race pipe. Should these be removed before taking the car to MMM? I have had some minor surges from time to time, very intermittant and doesn't last long. Surges don't happen again for several weeks. Always thought it might have been the fuel. Your collective thoughts are very welcome. Cheers Filbee07 NS DID VRX, 18" MT STZ's,Dual Batt,6mmsq Power to 3 Rear Outlets,Electric Brake Controller,GME UHF,Ando Plug,Bush Skinz,Engle,V-cold Beer,ARB Delux Bar,IPF's, OME lift,Nitro Charger Sport Shocks,Chipit chip,EGR block,EGT guage,Scanguage,DPF delete,Auto Lock up kit....
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Originally posted by cbass View PostMy check engine light self clears after about 3 or 4 starts during the day, thats with the p0299 code. It still shows the code on the scan gauge tho, but drives mormal.Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto
ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.
Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
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Member
- Sep 2008
- 120
- Jerrabomberra, NSW (just over the border to Canberra, ACT.) Suburb of Queanbeyan.
Engine Warning Light
Thanks to all who have provided comments. Much appreciated.
It would appear that this is a very common issue with the Pajero. Anyway, couldn't get into my MMM dealer until early June. And, the service rep was only interested in whether the tappets have been adjusted in the 112,000 ks that I've owned the car. He did agree that sometimes it could be the Suction Control Vlv or Map sensor, but he still concentrated on the tappets. So this afternoon I took it to the guys that fitted the ChipIt module. Computer spat out a sensor code (PO256), but no engine warning code. He checked the settings on the ChipIt module, all okay. Then removed the sensor on top of the located on top of the air cleaner. Gee, it was really dirty.
He also checked the tube connected to the bottom of the MAP sensor. Now I hope I'm talking about the right sensor - pls confirm that the MAP sensor is sitting up against the firewall, right hand side of engine (looking at it) and has a thin black rubber tube connected to the underside? The mechanic suggested that I throw in a bottle of injector cleaner, which I did. As for EGR blank, I'll have a look tomorrow morning to see if it has any signs of leaking, same for the lower manifold. I have 8,000 ks until the car runs out of warranty, so plenty of time to sus this whole thing out. Again, thanks for feedback. Cheers Filbee
PS. Fitted a set of Philips Daytime Running Lights (4 LEDs per light) to my bull bar. They are illuminated on start up, but as soon as the parkers come on, the DTRLs are extinguished. So my wife is happy that we have some lights 'on' during the day, and I am happy that we no longer dull out the speedo lights and the GPS screen. Turning the DTRL off with the parkers (generally night time) will satisfy the eager constable.(Feb) Pearl White 08 NS VRX (25th Anniv) DiD; Coopper H/T Plus; MM Alloy Bar; tyre lifter kit; Bluetooth; IPF900 spots; ICOM IC440 UHF; ARB Air Compressor (CKMP12) Kit; Waeco 60lt; RV4 Oztent and Ozpod; Rhino roof rack/cross bars. Trek Tech single shelf & 35/65 split cargo barrier; TJM battery rack with 80amphr; DS40 fridge slide; Coilrite bags; Oztent/Rhino Foxwing awning; Honda 2kVA; ChipIt EGT kit and race pipe.
Towing 2008 20ft Jayco Stirling O/B fitted with TyreDog TPMS.
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Originally posted by Filbee View PostThanks to all who have provided comments. Much appreciated.
It would appear that this is a very common issue with the Pajero. Anyway, couldn't get into my MMM dealer until early June. And, the service rep was only interested in whether the tappets have been adjusted in the 112,000 ks that I've owned the car. He did agree that sometimes it could be the Suction Control Vlv or Map sensor, but he still concentrated on the tappets. So this afternoon I took it to the guys that fitted the ChipIt module. Computer spat out a sensor code (PO256), but no engine warning code. He checked the settings on the ChipIt module, all okay. Then removed the sensor on top of the located on top of the air cleaner. Gee, it was really dirty.
He also checked the tube connected to the bottom of the MAP sensor. Now I hope I'm talking about the right sensor - pls confirm that the MAP sensor is sitting up against the firewall, right hand side of engine (looking at it) and has a thin black rubber tube connected to the underside? The mechanic suggested that I throw in a bottle of injector cleaner, which I did. As for EGR blank, I'll have a look tomorrow morning to see if it has any signs of leaking, same for the lower manifold. I have 8,000 ks until the car runs out of warranty, so plenty of time to sus this whole thing out. Again, thanks for feedback. Cheers Filbee
PS. Fitted a set of Philips Daytime Running Lights (4 LEDs per light) to my bull bar. They are illuminated on start up, but as soon as the parkers come on, the DTRLs are extinguished. So my wife is happy that we have some lights 'on' during the day, and I am happy that we no longer dull out the speedo lights and the GPS screen. Turning the DTRL off with the parkers (generally night time) will satisfy the eager constable.
are you sure its po256 i cant seem to find this in the factory manual
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Member
- Sep 2008
- 120
- Jerrabomberra, NSW (just over the border to Canberra, ACT.) Suburb of Queanbeyan.
Engine Warning Light
It was definitely a combination of those numbers. Thought I'd remember. Should commit things to memory. Try 625 or 652 etc. Thanks pasniny.(Feb) Pearl White 08 NS VRX (25th Anniv) DiD; Coopper H/T Plus; MM Alloy Bar; tyre lifter kit; Bluetooth; IPF900 spots; ICOM IC440 UHF; ARB Air Compressor (CKMP12) Kit; Waeco 60lt; RV4 Oztent and Ozpod; Rhino roof rack/cross bars. Trek Tech single shelf & 35/65 split cargo barrier; TJM battery rack with 80amphr; DS40 fridge slide; Coilrite bags; Oztent/Rhino Foxwing awning; Honda 2kVA; ChipIt EGT kit and race pipe.
Towing 2008 20ft Jayco Stirling O/B fitted with TyreDog TPMS.
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list of 4m41 error codes enjoy
P0016
Crank angle sensor/camshaft position sensor phase problem
P0047
Variable geometry control solenoid valve circuit low input
P0048
Variable geometry control solenoid valve circuit high input
P0072
No. 2 intake air temperature sensor circuit low input
P0073
No. 2 intake air temperature sensor circuit high input
P0088
Common rail high pressure malfunction
P0089
Suction control valve stuck
P0093
Fuel leak problem
P0102
Air flow sensor circuit low input
P0103
Air flow sensor circuit high input
P0106
Manifold absolute pressure sensor range/performance problem
P0107
Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit low input
P0108
Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit high input
P0112
No. 1 intake air temperature sensor circuit low input
P0113
No. 1 intake air temperature sensor circuit high input
P0117
Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit low input
P0118
Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high input
P0122
Throttle position sensor circuit low input
P0123
Throttle position sensor circuit high input
P0182
Fuel temperature sensor circuit low input
P0183
Fuel temperature sensor circuit high input
P0191
Rail pressure sensor range/performance problem
P0192
Rail pressure sensor circuit low input
P0193
Rail pressure sensor circuit high input
P0201
No. 1 injector circuit malfunction
P0202
No. 2 injector circuit malfunction
P0203
No. 3 injector circuit malfunction
P0204
No. 4 injector circuit malfunction
P0219
Engine over speed condition
P0299
Turbocharger under boost condition
P0301
No. 1 cylinder injector malfunction (No injection)
P0302
No. 2 cylinder injector malfunction (No injection)
P0303
No. 3 cylinder injector malfunction (No injection)
P0304
No. 4 cylinder injector malfunction (No injection)
P0335
Crank angle sensor system
P0336
Crank angle sensor range/performance problem
P0340
Camshaft position sensor system
P0341
Camshaft position sensor range/performance problem
P0403
Exhaust gas recirculation valve DC motor malfunction
P0405
Exhaust gas recirculation valve position sensor circuit low input
P0406
Exhaust gas recirculation valve position sensor circuit high input
P0420
Catalyst malfunction <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P0427
No. 2 exhaust gas temperature sensor (catalyst temperature) circuit low input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P0428
No. 2 exhaust gas temperature sensor (catalyst temperature) circuit high input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P0502
Vehicle speed sensor low input
P0513
Immobilizer malfunction
P0545
No. 1 exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit low input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P0546
No. 1 exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit high input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P0551
Power steering fluid pressure switch system
P0603
EEPROM malfunction
P0604
Random access memory (RAM) malfunction
P0605
Read only memory (FLASH ROM) malfunction
P0606
Engine-ECU (main CPU) malfunction
P0607
Engine-ECU (sub CPU) malfunction
P0628
Suction control valve open
P0629
Suction control valve battery short
P0630
Chassis number not programmed
P0638
Throttle valve control servo stuck
P0642
Analog sensor reference voltage No. 1 too low
P0643
Analog sensor reference voltage No. 1 too high
P0652
Analog sensor reference voltage No. 2 too low
P0653
Analog sensor reference voltage No. 2 too high
P1203
Capacitor insufficient charging
P1204
Capacitor excessive charging
P1272
Pressure limiter malfunction
P1273
Supply pump insufficient flow
P1274
Supply pump protection
P1275
Supply pump exchange
P1276
Fuel filter exchange <Vehicles without swirl control valve>
P1277
Fuel filter freeze <Vehicles without swirl control valve>
P1298
Variable geometry turbocharger control system malfunction (high pressure)
P1299
Variable geometry turbocharger control system malfunction (low pressure)
P1427
No. 3 exhaust gas temperature sensor (DPF temperature) circuit low input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1428
No. 3 exhaust gas temperature sensor (DPF temperature) circuit high input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1474
Exhaust differential pressure sensor ambient air temperature sensor circuit low input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1475
Exhaust differential pressure sensor ambient air temperature sensor circuit high input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1497
DPF system malfunction <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1498
Excessive PM accumulated in DPF <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1499
Abnormally high DPF temperature <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P1564
Abnormal voltage at cruise control switch
Refer to GROUP 17 - Auto-cruise Control - Check Chart For Diagnosis Codes <4M4> .
P1571
Malfunction of the stop lamp switch system
Refer to GROUP 17 - Auto-cruise Control - Check Chart For Diagnosis Codes <4M4> .
P1625
Injection quantity compensation value error
P1626
Injection quantity compensation value not coding
P2009
Swirl control solenoid valve circuit low input <Vehicles with swirl control valve>
P2010
Swirl control solenoid valve circuit high input <Vehicles with swirl control valve>
P2118
Throttle valve control DC motor current malfunction
P2122
Accelerator pedal position sensor (main) circuit low input
P2123
Accelerator pedal position sensor (main) circuit high input
P2124
Accelerator pedal position sensor (main) circuit high input intermittent
P2127
Accelerator pedal position sensor (sub) circuit low input
P2128
Accelerator pedal position sensor (sub) circuit high input
P2138
Accelerator pedal position sensor (main and sub) range/performance problem
P2146
Injector common 1 (cylinder No. 1and No. 4) circuit open
P2147
Injector common circuit earth short
P2148
Injector common circuit battery short
P2149
Injector common 2 (cylinder No. 2 and No. 3) circuit open
P2228
Barometric pressure sensor circuit low input
P2229
Barometric pressure sensor circuit high input
P2413
Exhaust gas recirculation system performance
P2454
Exhaust differential pressure sensor circuit low input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P2455
Exhaust differential pressure sensor circuit high input <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
P252F
Engine oil level malfunction <Vehicles with closed type DPF>
U1073
Bus Off
U1101*1
A/T-ECU time-out <A/T>
U1102*1
ASTC-ECU time-out
U1109*1
ETACS-ECU time-out
U1117*1
Immobilizer-ECU time-out
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Some advice and comments please.
Just got back from a trip and just getting to the end of the freeway entering Adelaide and I notice my engine waring lamp is on.
I then find the car is very sluggish and gear change is also sluggish, I assume this is limp mode.
As I turned engine off it seemed to run on. I left it for a while turned engine back on but when I switched it off it didn't seem to run on.....maybe my imagination.
There certainly was no surging with the car getting home or even prior to that.
I have the car booked at mitsu tomorrow but I would appreciate some comments on what it may be.
I don' have any fault codes but will ask mitsu what codes show when they have a look tomorrow.
From reading some threads I assume the issue could be related to
DPF/Sensor
Manifold/Map sensor
SCV
Am I correct with the above and or what else could have caused this.
Thanks in advance
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as listed above; there are a number of faults associated with the Check Engine Warning Light. waite for MM diagnosis .NS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.
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You say the engine didn't seem to run on the second time you were switching it off. Was the engine light still on after you turned the car off the first time? Perhaps it had reset?
If it were DPF related I'd expect a flashing DPF light also.
Not much more to say without a fault code. I'm currently experimenting with android Torque (the paid version) on my phone together with a cheap Bluetooth ELM327 device from eBay and it has worked for me to retrieve a fault code (and reset the engine check light). Just mentioning this because these days it's possible to retrieve fault codes yourself for minimal cost - even if that doesn't necessarily mean you can do something about it yourself.2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
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