Super Select 2 transfer case switches

[nj swb]

Lately I've been spending some time browsing the online service manuals hosted by the Russian 4wd club. Thanks to a reminder from m_and_m that there is also a Technical Manual, I found a nice description, complete with diagrams, of the different modes and which switch should be open or closed in which mode.

I decided to turn it into something I could print for future reference, and along the way, thought it might also be handy to others - so here it is:

SHIFT RAIL
The main shift rail, 2WD/4WD shift rail and high/low shift rail are moved by a selected drive system. A switch to detect the current drive system is mounted on each shift rail.

WHEN 2H IS SELECTED

When 2H is selected, the main shift rail moves to the right side and the 2WD/4WD shift rail and high/low shift rail move to the left side as shown below. The 2WD detection switch and 2WD/4WD detection switch turn ON with the groove provided on each shift rail to detect that the 2WD state is currently applied.

WHEN 4H IS SELECTED

When 4H is selected, the main shift rail moves to the left side from 2H, and the 2WD/4WD shift rail moved to the right side by intermediate gear. At this time, the 2WD/4WD detection switch and 4H detection switch turn ON to detect that the full-time 4WD state is currently applied.

WHEN 4HLc IS SELECTED

At 4HLc is selected, the main shift rail moves to the left side from 4H, and the 2WD/4WD shift rail is moved to the right side by the intermediate gear. This intermediate gear is missing some teeth, so even if the main shift rail attempts to move further to the right, rotation is prevented. At this time, the 4H detection switch and centre differential lock detection switch turn ON to detect that the direct coupled 4WD (high range) state is currently applied.

WHEN 4LLc IS SELECTED

When 4LLc selected, the main shift rail moves to the left side from 4HLc, and the high/low shift rail is moved to the right by the intermediate gear. At this time, the centre differential lock detection switch and 4LLc detection switch turn ON to detect that the direct coupled 4WD (low range) state is currently applied.

From http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...2/index_M2.htm

A PDF for printing is also attached, for those so inclined.

[Aussie_Dan]

That information is Pajero gold.
Thanks for sharing NJ.
Cheers, Dan.

[GHendo]

That's really handy - a very good post.

Cheers

Geoff

[m_and_m]

Nice one nj_swb,

Here's some additional info I've found useful. (note, this is from GEN3, but is likely the same for GEN4...can someone confirm?)

How the front diff engagement works with photos. Good writeup by 4ePikanini.

http://4epikanini.webs.com/gen3pajero4x4system.htm

Part numbers for the switches. (courtesy of koala2 post)
No1 2WD switch P.N.C. 30727
No2 2WD & 4WD Switch P.N.C. 30727P
No3 4H switch P.N.C. 30727Q
No4 Centre diff lock switch P.N.C. 30727S
No5 4LLC Switch P.N.C. 30727T

The PNC number is used to find the part number. Just use google.
e.g. the part no for No2 is MR580152 T/F Gearshift


I have a diagram for the locations on the transfer case switches...but can't put my hands on it atm. will edit post later.

To get to these switches is not easy. You need to remove the transfer case support and lower the support on a jack and drop the transfer case down as far as possible.

To diagnose which switch is faulty, you may need the MUT3 support from the dealer, and orange CD flashing problem are not always switch related. (could be input or output shaft speed sensors)
But, if you think it's a switch, it would be cheaper to buy a set of 5 switches and just replace them all rather than going to the stealer.
Search for "MR580152 set 5" in eBay and you can get a full set for between $60-$120.
Tightening torque is 35 +/- 6 Nm

[GHendo]

If you need the actual part numbers, they are ... for Gen 3 anyway

Switch - Transfer Box Gearshift position - 2WD: MR580151
Switch - Transfer Box Gearshift position - 2WD & 4WD: MR580152
Switch - Transfer Box Gearshift position - 4H: MR580153
Switch - Transfer Box Gearshift position - Centre Diff Lock: MR580154
Switch - Transfer Box Gearshift position - 4LLC: MR580155

Geoff

[tonymOz]

Great post, thanks everyone. I've still got to get around to changing mine - I reckon it's the 2WD switch. The thought of lying on my back on a cold garage floor in various contortionist positions whilst scraping the skin of my knuckles has made the flashing lights bearable for the moment though - unless anyone has a lift I could borrow for a couple of hours

[geopaj]

Nice one nj_swb,

Here's some additional info I've found useful. (note, this is from GEN3, but is likely the same for GEN4...can someone confirm?)

How the front diff engagement works with photos. Good writeup by 4ePikanini.

http://4epikanini.webs.com/gen3pajero4x4system.htm

From my experience of faulty finding a 'flashing centre diff light' on my NT, I can confirm the gen 4 system is the same as the gen 3 system, as reported on the 4epikanini website.

[Pz01]

Howdy,

Had a recent experience with flashing super select lights and transfer case switches that might help someone;

Transfer case switches can be removed by dropping the back of the case. Did this on ramps in the back yard with a trolley jack. Not too much fun but doable.

Getting your bearing on the switches is challenging. A mirror and torch will help. A long ring spanner either 22 or 24mm (?) will work. Disconnect the plug on each switch and run the cable through the ring of the spanner so you can seat it on the switch. There is a particular ordering of removal to get enough clearance on the spanner. Three switches on one side at the top and two one the other. All in close proximity. Clearing the dust and dirt away from the switch holes is difficult.

Upon removal I was getting flakey contact readings on a multimeter when opening and closing the switches. I hooked up an old school spotlight across the switch and let it draw current to run the light. I suspect this cleaned the contacts in the switches. The open closed multi meter reads were then crisp and not flakey like previously.Bolted everything back together and has been gold since.

Cheers Paul.

[Isabel]

For the last two years I’ve put up with the dreaded CD lock flashing light.
I have read most likely all relevant posts here and plenty elsewhere but do not remember anyone giving as much info as you did.
Paul you are a Champion.

and here it is the essential info from his post:

Transfer case switches can be removed by dropping the back of the case
Getting your bearing on the switches is challenging. A mirror and torch will help. A long ring spanner either 22 or 24mm (?) will work. Disconnect the plug on each switch and run the cable through the ring of the spanner so you can seat it on the switch. There is a particular ordering of removal to get enough clearance on the spanner. Three switches on one side at the top and two one the other. All in close proximity. Clearing the dust and dirt away from the switch holes is difficult.

And the trick with higher than wetting current to clean the contact points is wort remembering.

[Pz01]

No worries, glad it helped.

[lunnmj]

Hi all

I have read the info and very helpful, but as mentioned here it could also be the speed sensors on the input or output shafts.
My question how do you test these speed sensors ?
My Pajero goes into 4x4 and all green lights come on. The moment I pull away the orange light flashes.

Thank you

[sootyNT]

Can anyone confirm if the below listed part numbers are the same for a 2011 NT?

I need to order a set.

MR580151
MR580152
MR580153
MR580154
MR580155

Every listing I have found lists these as suitable to 2006 only.

[lunnmj]

Hi SootyNT
Try cleaning them the contacts by putting a higher current through them.
Like using a car lamp.
Only a very small current for the ECU goes through them and the contacts get dirty. A higher current burns them clean. You don't have to even remove them. Just disconnect the wire as the other side is to earth.

Hope this helps
Martyn

[sootyNT]

Can you explain what you mean by car lamp?

Would it be the same as hooking a 12v battery direct to them?

I'm happy to give this a go before replacing them as the error code points to the transfer case switches and the wiring is in good order.

I just don't want to do any damage to the internals of the transfer case.

Cheers

[GHendo]

Can you explain what you mean by car lamp? Would it be the same as hooking a 12v battery direct to them?

Hell no, don’t just hook a 12v battery directly to the switches or you’ll create a short and draw too much current from the battery. You need something in the circuit to cut down the current, but draws enough to burn crap off the switch contacts.

What you need to do is have something light a car light bulb (eg. old style blinker bulb – not LED) in the circuit so it cuts down the amperage being drawn from the battery. You might have to make up something with a socket the bulb fits into with the negative and positive wires coming out of the socket.

Disconnect the switch from the harness then you place the positive of the battery on one of the switch terminals and connect the negative from the battery to one of the wires on the light bulb. You then touch together the second light bulb wire to the second wire on the switch. The light should come on and hopefully the extra bit of current you have passed through the switch has burnt off the bit of crap there was on the switch points. If you press the switch on and off a couple of times while doing this it might help.

I think you’ll find it difficult getting enough room up under the vehicle to access the switches on top of the transfer case – you might have to drop the transfer case down a bit or something.

Cheers

Geoff