replacing front brake rotors

[damo03]

Hi,

I am upgrading the 15" disc rotors to 16" for better performance so my brakes on the GLX match the GLS now that I am running larger tyres. I have removed the parts I need off a wreck but have a question to those who have removed and reinstalled the hub on the front of their pajero:

Can anyone enlighten how they made an appropriate tool or set the torque when setting the wheel bearing preload adjustment as the manual states to tighten the round lock nut to 162Nm, back off to 0Nm then torque again to 25Nm. This is obviously to ensure that the taper bearings are pre-loaded correctly but I do not have the "special too" the service manual specifies.

How have achieve required torque on the wheel bearings without the special tool? I may have to fabricate a tool to achieve this properly, or they may be a backyard solution?

[damo03]

I'm sure someone would have done this before? I'm guessing it's easiest to fabricate a tool out of flat bar and some bolts/nuts?

[Just Cruzin]

Just buy a hub nut socket, cheap enough easy to get hold of.
Think I paid around $20 for a 52mm Landcruiser one from Total Tools.

[Pauly Faulkner]

Don't forget that you need the larger caliper bracket as well to go with the rotor. Also, 15" is unlikely to fit anymore.

Preload is to make sure the outer race is seated properly in the hub. As long as you seat the outer race firmly when installing then just hit the retaining collar on with a screwdriver and a hammer (the unthreaded holes). Once you get it as tight as you can just turn the wheel a few times then back collar off and repeat a second time. When setting final preload just get it firm with the same method above and see if retainer lock ring lines up with threaded holes. If not, tighten a little more (never loosen).
If in doubt just recheck after a few drives and reset final preload again.

[damo03]

Thanks guys. Yeah, got the lines. calliper brackets and dust shield. I'll look at the hub nut socket. Probably a handy tool to have. Otherwise, Pauly I'll use your method.

[peterjt]

Just buy a hub nut socket, cheap enough easy to get hold of.
Think I paid around $20 for a 52mm Landcruiser one from Total Tools.

I am looking for that 52mm lock ring socket you mentioned as I am doing the front wheel bearings on my NL. Are you sure that you got it from Total Tools as you said. I rang Total Tools here in Adelaide and they knew nothing about it.

I can make do with the approximate method suggested by Pauly but if I can find the socket cheap I will get it.

[gemster]

Is this what you are looking for?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Impact-Socket-52mm-Deep-80mm-Length-1-2-Square-Drive-Fits-Range-Rover/192271657581?epid=1839979706&hash=item2cc448aa6d:g:ULoAAOSwK~RZ6CYH

Gemster....

[stumagoo]

no Gemster the NL has a round ring with a series of holes in it not a conventional nut.
seen about 35 seconds into this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeYLoeFu6Nc however should not be loose like this video has.....

[gemster]

Ok.. Sorry.. I didn't realise... Me bad..

Gemster...

[MMC89TD2.5]

bearing lock nut wrench

I'm doing this job now on my swb (gen 1) late 89 NG import, doing my research ...

There was a link in some other thread to this dude replacing front rotors (which involve taking the whole hub off the axle, requiring removal of front bearings, hence the need to do this)

http://4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1074827/1.html

--- check near the bottom of first page, he uses this > socket which he 'adapts' to have two pins to torque the the outer race with lock collar piece over http://performancetool.com/item.aspx?iid=218

The correct socket/wrench we want seems very difficult to find. I've found T & e tools in Syd have similar sockets that should do the job >

http://www.tetools.com/catalogue/items.php?text=Pin%20Type%20Wheel%20Bearing%20Locknut%20Wrenches%0D%0A&id=1567

what we're after is pins to fit the holes in the collar. The outer edges of holes roughly measure 67mm (ROUGHLY)
What I question about torquing this way is there is no thread that you're torquing into, you're just sliding both bearing & collar in by rotating with a torque wrench.
I would think you'd need to put inward force on it, but that's my uneducated brain.
Though it wouldn't get torque'd to spec, could you not just use a bearing & race driver on the front bearing , as is done with the rear? (I bought a cheap set, hopefully it's not too dodgy) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Pcs-B...6HQy:rk:4:pf:0

any further advice/knowledge on torqueing the bearings back in appreciated.

EDIT: last paragraph ^ --->the collar/race nut IS threaded onto CV end behind the splines. I removed one 2 days ago very easily, the other today hasn't moved yet... seems like one was torqued & the other not.