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  #1  
Old 09-07-17
Wazza430 Wazza430 is offline
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Default Enerdrive VSR

Has anyone on here with a ECU smart alternator running the Enerdrive VSR? Just been reading some reviews and all arecsaying its a great product. Only problem they dont state wether they had a smart alternator or not.
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  #2  
Old 10-07-17
06PAJ 06PAJ is offline
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No.... standard vsr wont work
Run your eyes over this
https://www.redarc.com.au/faq-tech-t...ing-performanc
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  #3  
Old 10-07-17
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Originally Posted by 06PAJ View Post
No.... standard vsr wont work
Run your eyes over this
https://www.redarc.com.au/faq-tech-t...ing-performanc
Plenty are using a standard VSR on the gen 4and getting away with it - apparently.

Some claim their voltage never drops below about 13.2V. I've seen mine as low as 12.0 before, however that was idling and feeding charge into a depleted aux bat by a dc/dc charger.

I found with my NX that if I run the fan at all times (even on notch 1), generally my voltage never drops below 13.0. So what it comes down to with a VSR is this

1. What is the lowest voltage your car generally runs at?
2. can you trick the ecu into ramping it up?
3. What is the cut in/out voltage threshold on the VSR?
4. Can you live with the VSR cycling on/off if points 1-3 above will make that happen.

So to issue a blanket statement saying they wont work is incorrect.

Manually programmable VSR's would be best for ecu controlled alternators, such as the EBi Pro. Not familiar with the enerdrive one and what voltage thresholds it has or if they are programmable.

There are lots of Great products out there. First you need to perform a voltage audit on your vehicle then you can start to sort the chaff from the wheat. Without doing so, you are flying blind.

Personally I believe a dc/dc charger is superior. Maybe not in the initial bulk charge stage (and that's an arguable statement at best), but overall. And the battery will love you for it. I've been running the Projecta IDC25 and its a little ripper. Feature wise and bang for buck, it craps all over the redarc product.
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Old 10-07-17
06PAJ 06PAJ is offline
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So to issue a blanket statement saying they wont work is incorrect.
Did you read the link ?

Was only going off RedArc info
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Old 10-07-17
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Originally Posted by 06PAJ View Post
Did you read the link ?

Was only going off RedArc info
No. I know what redarc have to say, so I didn't need to.

All my points are still relevant and valid.
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MY16 NX GLX5, Dobinson's HD springs + MRR shocks + Firestone airbags, 17" Toyo Opats, XXX bar, Dominator winch + IB500 relay, Full Bushskinz kit, Rhino track mount, 7" led spots, 23" light bar, SPV block, Ultragauge, Donaldson secondary filter, LRA 81L aux, 105AGM in rear + Projecta IDC25, 2 tier rear shelf + slide, ARB on board compressor, 2.5 x 3.0 awning

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  #6  
Old 11-07-17
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I run the Redarc unit and the Projecta unit. Both perform well. I cant tell any difference from them. They both charge the battery whilst driving. I have a dedicated MPPT regulator for the camper batteries and a high quality PWM for th 2 agms in the vehicle. In 3 years I have never see my voltage below 13 volts. 90% of the time the music is on as well as the air-conditioner. I have had VSR,s in my Toyotas and they performed well.....however I also had 180 watts of solar on the roofs as well, constantly feeding in. DC/DC chargers are going to be the norm in years to come as alternators get smaller and the stop/start technology, along with temperature controlled alternators are fitted to vehicles. I recommend that if you do not use a roof rack, put a good quality solar panel on the roof and pick up 10 amps an hour for doing bugger all but parking the car in sunlight. Thats with a 180watt smallish panel. This is where a dcdc charger, with inbuilt regulator, along with a solar panel is an excellent investment. You get the best of both worlds---moving or stationary. you get charge into your batteries.
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Last edited by Dicko1; 11-07-17 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 11-07-17
wanderay wanderay is online now
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My advice is similar to dickos, I have 180 watt panel on the roof and 2 optima batteries and a mppt
solar regulator all hooked together all the time. The alternator does most of the charging while driving and the solar does the top up while stopped. No dc/dc required or vsr as long as you don't flatten batteries by leaving stuff turned on.

Ray
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  #8  
Old 11-07-17
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Originally Posted by Dicko1 View Post
I run the Redarc unit and the Projecta unit. Both perform well. I cant tell any difference from them. They both charge the battery whilst driving. I have a dedicated MPPT regulator for the camper batteries and a high quality PWM for th 2 agms in the vehicle. In 3 years I have never see my voltage below 13 volts. 90% of the time the music is on as well as the air-conditioner. I have had VSR,s in my Toyotas and they performed well.....however I also had 180 watts of solar on the roofs as well, constantly feeding in. DC/DC chargers are going to be the norm in years to come as alternators get smaller and the stop/start technology, along with temperature controlled alternators are fitted to vehicles. I recommend that if you do not use a roof rack, put a good quality solar panel on the roof and pick up 10 amps an hour for doing bugger all but parking the car in sunlight. Thats with a 180watt smallish panel. This is where a dcdc charger, with inbuilt regulator, along with a solar panel is an excellent investment. You get the best of both worlds---moving or stationary. you get charge into your batteries.
What a great idea


.....If you have a fridge permanently mounted in the back of the car.

If you are like 99% of the rest of the population that doesn't then why bother?

And what does a panel mounted to the roof have to do with "will an enerdrive VSR work with a mitsy ecu controlled alternator"?

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Gone to a new home ...MY04 NP GLS Man Di-D, Look after her..


MY16 NX GLX5, Dobinson's HD springs + MRR shocks + Firestone airbags, 17" Toyo Opats, XXX bar, Dominator winch + IB500 relay, Full Bushskinz kit, Rhino track mount, 7" led spots, 23" light bar, SPV block, Ultragauge, Donaldson secondary filter, LRA 81L aux, 105AGM in rear + Projecta IDC25, 2 tier rear shelf + slide, ARB on board compressor, 2.5 x 3.0 awning

NX build


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  #9  
Old 11-07-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkcaver View Post
What a great idea


.....If you have a fridge permanently mounted in the back of the car.

If you are like 99% of the rest of the population that doesn't then why bother?

And what does a panel mounted to the roof have to do with "will an enerdrive VSR work with a mitsy ecu controlled alternator"?

Yes I have a fridge mounted in the back...like plenty of other owners here in Nth Australia. Heaps of em in the NT as well. Panel really has nothing to do with "will an enerdrive VSR work with a mitsy ecu controlled alternator"...Same as saying a dc/dc is the best way to go......

I was only offering another option that works well.
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Last edited by Dicko1; 11-07-17 at 09:03 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-07-17
Wazza430 Wazza430 is offline
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Hey guys, thanks for your informative comments. I will only be running a fridge in the back and that will only be for a few weeks of the year. I know it sounds overkill but I will also be set up if for any reason I need a fridge for more occasions.
When I checked my voltage a while back, it didnt drop below 13.2v on a trip to Roxby. Didnt use my lights until I got there. The DRLs could play an important part in the higher voltage perhaps .
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