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Bolted on bits, factory and aftermarket accessories Discussion of after-market extras: winches, bull bars, tow bars (and Towing), roof racks, snorkels, and other cool stuff

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  #1  
Old 16-06-17
Kumabear Kumabear is offline
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Default Opposite lock 3 loop steel bar mounts cracking...

So I noticed my bull bar seemed a little loose, went over it and tightened it all up last weekend.

Then did a day trip out to the blue mountains.

Yesterday I noticed it was again feeling very loose, upon inspection the metal on the bull bar mounts is either tearing or the weld has cracked...

Checked the warranty online and all I can see is it says 2 years.

Called opposite lock just now and he mentioned the warranty is 5 years on that bar and to bring it past for some pictures and he will "try and get a new bar out of it".

Wish me luck I guess, its pretty disappointing this happened tho as I am very careful to deflate my tires any time I am going off road, and I have not done any long distance corrugated drives with it.

Others with this bar it might be a good idea to take a look.
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2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

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  #2  
Old 16-06-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kumabear View Post
So I noticed my bull bar seemed a little loose, went over it and tightened it all up last weekend.

Then did a day trip out to the blue mountains.

Yesterday I noticed it was again feeling very loose, upon inspection the metal on the bull bar mounts is either tearing or the weld has cracked...

Checked the warranty online and all I can see is it says 2 years.

Called opposite lock just now and he mentioned the warranty is 5 years on that bar and to bring it past for some pictures and he will "try and get a new bar out of it".

Wish me luck I guess, its pretty disappointing this happened tho as I am very careful to deflate my tires any time I am going off road, and I have not done any long distance corrugated drives with it.

Others with this bar it might be a good idea to take a look.
Good luck, but it sounds promising so far. I'm following this to see how TJM customer service compares to the one I had dealings with. Would love to see what the actual fault is when you get time to determine what that is/take pictures.
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  #3  
Old 16-06-17
Kumabear Kumabear is offline
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Went and took some pics before grabbing lunch.

Both the passenger side and the drivers side are cracked, Not sure if its failed welds or metal fatigue.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Passanger.jpg (150.0 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg Drivers.jpg (97.5 KB, 137 views)
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2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

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  #4  
Old 21-06-17
Kumabear Kumabear is offline
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Well I have an update.


Took it in to opposite lock to have a look.


They were quite shocked at how badly it was cracked right up until one of the installers was on the way to his car which was parked next to mine as we were looking at it.


He asked what was wrong, bent over and took one look at the lower bracket and said "yep, whoever installed this did not tap the chassis holes and put in the lower bolts to stop it shaking and leveraging on the bar"


I then replied... "but you guys installed it 3 years ago"


Suffice to say... I am going to be getting a new bullbar, although the wording from them was "we will try to get you a new bar" I will definitely be making a stink if I do not get one.
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2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

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  #5  
Old 25-06-17
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Nice work, glad to hear that...the resolution that is, not the piss poor performance in the first place
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MY16 NX GLX5, Dobinson's HD springs + MRR shocks + Firestone airbags, 17" Toyo Opats, XXX bar, Dominator winch + IB500 relay, Full Bushskinz kit, Rhino track mount, 7" led spots, 23" light bar, SPV block, Ultragauge, Donaldson secondary filter, LRA 81L aux, 105AGM in rear + Projecta IDC25, 2 tier rear shelf + slide, ARB on board compressor, 2.5 x 3.0 awning

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  #6  
Old 25-06-17
Wicks747 Wicks747 is offline
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Something to be said for having experience on the tools which so many sales reps don't have these days
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  #7  
Old 25-06-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kumabear View Post
Went and took some pics before grabbing lunch.

Both the passenger side and the drivers side are cracked, Not sure if its failed welds or metal fatigue.
one would think there would be a weld in that seam

...
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  #8  
Old 26-06-17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kumabear View Post
He asked what was wrong, bent over and took one look at the lower bracket and said "yep, whoever installed this did not tap the chassis holes and put in the lower bolts to stop it shaking and leveraging on the bar"
I don't understand this.

In both pictures there are bolts in the plates that run back along the sub-frame.

Mine is identical and, while not cracked, was installed exactly as per the instructions.

Should there be another bolt, and where should it be?
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  #9  
Old 26-06-17
Kumabear Kumabear is offline
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Originally Posted by NFT5 View Post
I don't understand this.

In both pictures there are bolts in the plates that run back along the sub-frame.

Mine is identical and, while not cracked, was installed exactly as per the instructions.

Should there be another bolt, and where should it be?

So there are supposed to be 5 bolts on either side according the the fitter i spoke to.

4 are to the front part of the sub frame where the chassis rails would be on a body on frame vehicle.

Then if you bend down looking side on, in front of the tires you will see the bracket continuing down the side of the sub frame and there is a hole for a bolt in the bracket, and a corresponding pre existing but un-tapped hole in the sub-frame of the car.

What they are saying is that they are supposed to tap that hole in the sub frame and put a locating bolt through to stabilise the bar and prevent alot of the vibration from corrugations from damaging the bull bar mounts as they have in mine.


Also in an update they have tried to convince me to accept replacement brackets rather than a new bar.
I have polity refused


It is my position that the bar has suffered unintended and unacceptable wear and tear as a result of the incorrect fitting mixed with 3 and a half years of off road use. I have a winch on the front and I will not be confident using it on this bar as I believe there is increased risk of someone getting hurt or equipment being damaged. How can you promise me that all the other welds on the bar are sound, or that the metal where the fit kit attaches to the bar is not invisibly fatigued.

I refuse to have equipment that I may have to depend on far from help on my vehicle that I do not trust especially in a recovery situation which is hazardous enough without additional unknown variables.


Basically a sum up of what I replied with after being told head office just sent a new fit kit.
Wish me luck I guess.
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2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

Wishlist:
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  #10  
Old 26-06-17
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Thanks for the response Kumabear.

Just to be sure, a picture of mine when I installed the bar. Are you saying that the missing bolt is the one right at the back, partially hidden by the splash guard in this photo?

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