PC Stability control fault

[DID Dash]

Thanks for the clarification Flatbiskit, I am hoping a slight lift keeps the good road manners of my M/T Challenger intact. It is amazing to me how different the Auto's and Manual's behave in similar conditions for both ASC and ATC intervention. A mate of mine had an Auto Challenger a while back, and sometimes both vehicles were like chalk and cheese given the same track and similar loads. I am keeping mine, he has moved his on..

[Flatbiskit]

I would like to get out of mine but I have spent too much on it and can't handle the loss at the moment lol.

It is a good car and does want it was purchased for but times have changed and it is not the ideal vehicle now. If it was manual it would make a huge difference I think.

[Flatbiskit]

Well quick update, called MMA RE loan car and they cant do any thing unless there is a delay due to ordering parts.

Spoke to the dealer again and they stepped up and will have a suitable car for me by tomorrow.

Down side is they still have no idea what is going on. They are speaking wth MMA and there seams to be a lot of to and frowing. still hoping for a good out come.

[littleriver]

Well quick update, called MMA RE loan car and they cant do any thing unless there is a delay due to ordering parts.

Spoke to the dealer again and they stepped up and will have a suitable car for me by tomorrow.

Down side is they still have no idea what is going on. They are speaking wth MMA and there seams to be a lot of to and frowing. still hoping for a good out come.

yes have heard if longer then a week if the dealer can't find you a car ...

[Flatbiskit]

Hi all.

Bit of an update for anyone following along.

It has sat at the dealer for most of the week waiting for parts. On monday, they claim they found the LHS rear axle was leaking so they ordered new seals and that was it. I went and had a look and there was a slight weep but not what I would call a leak.

Well the new seals arrived Friday and were installed. They are unsure if it has fixed the issue (??) So now they think it is the ABS hydraulic unit and computer.(they come as a set) So now that is on order......

I still have no idea when I will get my car back.

Hears hoping the ABS computer is the issue. I will let you know.

Geoff

[coughy]

just left field but i wonder if they need to calibrate the g shock latural sensor i think it is called
i will have to fire up the lappy to get the exact terminology
just a thought i just had while reading the first few lines on this post
sorry havent got much more time to read

[Flatbiskit]

just left field but i wonder if they need to calibrate the g shock latural sensor i think it is called
i will have to fire up the lappy to get the exact terminology
just a thought i just had while reading the first few lines on this post
sorry havent got much more time to read

All good. Thanks for that I will ask on Monday see if they have looked at it. It this point I am looking for anything.

[Flatbiskit]

Hi all, for those following, I did not want to post to much while it was an on going concern but my local Mitsubishi dealer and MMA have both washed their hands of my car stating it is normal.

Just a recap, the ABS/traction control/stability control activate when cornering and the car is NOT sliding. Sometimes to the point that the front wheels lock and do not release for a few seconds.

My local dealer had the car for almost 6 weeks in the end, yes that is right 6 weeks. They did come to the party after almost 2 weeks with a second hand Triton off the used car lot for me to use, so that helped.(I tow a 2 ton trailer for work). They did a lot of test drives in that time as the car had just over 1200km more on it compared to when I dropped it off. I received a letter stating the vehicle was unsafe and would not be returned to me until it was repaired.

The techs at my local dealer soon ran out of ideas, they replaced the yaw sensor, the steering angle sensor and one more that escapes me at the moment, (could have been G sensor), cleaned all the electrical connections and ABS sensors and a few other things. After that the out come was the fault was I had installed different tyres.

As the car came factory with highway pattern 265/65/17, and I had fitted General Grabber AT's 265/70/17, thus that was the problem. They would not discuss the issue any further while the tires were still on the car. I then fitted 265/65/17 highway pattern and low and behold the issue was still there, not as bad but as I said it would be like that.

They then had a Master tech (or something like that) arrive from Sydney and he drove the car and it would not do it as it is much harder to do it with the standard tyres on. He claims he has seen it before and after we spoke at length at what it was doing it is because wait for it, I have fitted after market suspension, bull bar, draws, roof basket and awing on one side of the car only...which all change the center of gravity of the car which the sensors cant compensate for causing the issue.

So morel of the story, don't modify your car, and heaven forbid do not put 4WD tyres on it!

Not sure what I will do now. Have been given the number of a mechanic that will look at it but he is in Sydney and I'm in Canberra so that may not work. Will update if anything else develops.

[old Jack]

There are 1,000's of PB/PC Challengers on the road since 2009 and collectively clocked up 100's of millions of kms. many of these have bullbars, roof racks, off road tyres, aftermarket suspension and yet they do not have the problems you vehicle has. My MY11 PB has all of the above mods and does not have these random acts of ABS/ASTC activation.

It is either a sensor/s issue, plug/loom connectivity issue or ABS/ASTC ECU issue or a combination of any or all.

OR.

If your front suspension is raised too high you can run out of droop travel so you can lift a tyre when cornering, this can cause an incorrect signal to the ABS/ASCTC system and cause unwanted activation. To check your droop travel simply measure the distance between the centre of the wheel hub and the under guard in a vertical line and then jack the wheel clear of the ground by jacking from the body so the suspension droops. Take another measurement and calculate the difference. If you do not have 30mm or 40mm of droop travel I suspect this is your problem. That is front ride height is too high and possible the spring rate is too firm so you are lifting a front wheel.

OJ.

[Flatbiskit]

OR.

If your front suspension is raised too high you can run out of droop travel so you can lift a tyre when cornering, this can cause an incorrect signal to the ABS/ASCTC system and cause unwanted activation. To check your droop travel simply measure the distance between the centre of the wheel hub and the under guard in a vertical line and then jack the wheel clear of the ground by jacking from the body so the suspension droops. Take another measurement and calculate the difference. If you do not have 30mm or 40mm of droop travel I suspect this is your problem. That is front ride height is too high and possible the spring rate is too firm so you are lifting a front wheel.

OJ.

Hi Old Jack, That is one that I have not thought of. I don't think the dealer would have either. I will measure that tomorrow if I get a chance and will let you know.

It has the ultimate suspension 2' lift so would not think that is the issue as there a lot of cars running that but I'll look at everything at this point .

[coughy]

well that is a absolute load of rubbish i have all of the things fitted and the 265/70/17 at tyres and mine dosent do that at all
the mitsubishi dealers have no clue when it comes to the tricky side of things like this
they have a live data mut3 was this used and car driven to check all of the readings from the car like wheel sensors and the like????

So does it onlyt do it turning around corners??
im thinking that the wheel sensors have a fault or a bad signal or interrupted signal to the car
sorry for your trouble but dealers are useless unless you get one that wonts to help

[Flatbiskit]

well that is a absolute load of rubbish i have all of the things fitted and the 265/70/17 at tyres and mine dosent do that at all
the mitsubishi dealers have no clue when it comes to the tricky side of things like this
they have a live data mut3 was this used and car driven to check all of the readings from the car like wheel sensors and the like????

sorry for your trouble but dealers are useless unless you get one that wonts to help

And that is the problem, they don't care.

I have been for test drives with the workshop foreman and he has had the MUT plugged in, he can see it happen when it happens he just doesn't know why.

The car scares the shit out of him when it does it (his words) so I did quite a few test drives with him.

[mudguard1]

Interesting reading: I have a 2012 poverty pack std Auto with only a mitsy alloy bull bar up front' and std Bridgestone tyres .
Mine has done it a total of 4 times and each time it was towing 1.8 tonnes with 180kg ball load, and the first time it happened it scared the crap out of the wife and I.
It has only happened when going around corners and when pushing thr'u the corners at a decent clip .
The way I cured it was I lifted the weight distribution hitch chain by one link ,thus transferring some of the weight on the rear wheels back to the front axles .
When I thought about it the van was wanting to go straight ahead going into corners and was transferring more weight to the rear of the car and lifting the front .
That was 4 years ago and since then of towing some 15K it has never happened again , and certainly never when not towing .
Flatbiskit hope this is some help and wishing you a speedy end to the problem. Regards Bruce.

[DID Dash]

Hey FlatBiskit, that's no good. Just a thought. Is your situation improved running in 4H vs 2H. Couple of observations based on my 4 years ownership. 95% of my driving has been in 4H for safely, road holding, tyre wear and improved driving feeling. On the occasional 2H drive, usually done just to keep the transfer mechanism moving, I infrequently have ASC intervention, but almost never when in 4H. The first 3 years of ownership were on standard OE H/T tyres and suspension. 1 year ago I fitted 265/70R17 A/T's which made the ASC intervention worse in 2H, and 2 months ago I modified the Rear Suspension with King Springs and Pedders Cones and this had quite a dramatic impact (worse). Perhaps give 4H a good run for a bit if you have not already. Good luck.

[old Jack]

Interesting reading: I have a 2012 poverty pack std Auto with only a mitsy alloy bull bar up front' and std Bridgestone tyres .
Mine has done it a total of 4 times and each time it was towing 1.8 tonnes with 180kg ball load, and the first time it happened it scared the crap out of the wife and I.
It has only happened when going around corners and when pushing thr'u the corners at a decent clip .
The way I cured it was I lifted the weight distribution hitch chain by one link ,thus transferring some of the weight on the rear wheels back to the front axles .
When I thought about it the van was wanting to go straight ahead going into corners and was transferring more weight to the rear of the car and lifting the front .
That was 4 years ago and since then of towing some 15K it has never happened again , and certainly never when not towing .
Flatbiskit hope this is some help and wishing you a speedy end to the problem. Regards Bruce.

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for posting your issues and how you overcame them.
This adds weight to my theory (reverse pun intended) but seriously it highlights the importance of correct weight distribution, suspension travel and spring rates.

OJ.