Another PB auto limp mode

[fester]

Maybe if the limp mode issue was the only issue this gearbox had I could maybe forgive it and put up with it given it doesn't happen a lot and can be reset on the fly if you are on the ball. (Ignoring the fact you can drive around it by driving manually) However the whole overall shift program of the box ruins the whole drive experience of what is otherwise a fairly good package. Add the fact that the engine had to be detuned to protect the box and it really makes the engine package a bit substandard too. Unfortunately these things are hard to really assess unless you can get in a serious test drive, like a whole day at least. Unfortunately this is not that easy. Ours test drove fine really and I'd say it was several months in before I really started seeing the issues with the programming. Maybe the adaptive learning has a bearing on this too.

Having driven some other more powerful auto 4WD's recently (plus the 2 I owned before the PB), it just reminds me how good a combo like this should be.

[barney351]

Piss Poor engineering and programming by mitsubishi, even worse customer care in their not giving a ____k attitude to all the problems people are having with their Challengers and Tritons, and many of these people have been long term customers of mitsubishi.

[PersonalChallenge]

Sorry folks but I'm really confused. I'm a new owner of a Challenger PC auto which will be towing a 2 tonne boat (give or take). So far I haven't towed any significant distance so no issues with limp mode.

But!

What I want to know and am having trouble gleaning from the discussion is how do I reset limp mode if it does strike?

Sounds like using sports mode cruising in 4th is a big benefit to avoid limping.

[barney351]

Yes Mate, using sports mode seems to help,
i would mostly need to pull over to the side of the road and turn the car off, and then restart to reset the trans, at times in peak hr traffic when moving slow but not towing, I have been able to drop into neutral for a short period of time and when put back in gear the problem was gone.
A number of the guys use a scan gauge to monitor their car, maybe these guys can reset while on the fly.
Hopefully you are one of the lucky ones and never have an issue.
cheers

[fester]

Yep flip it into neutral and back into D then if you want across to tiptronic if that's where you were (depends if you were in D or the sports gate or whatever you want to call it)

[fester]

Well I really didn't want to spend money on this car because as many would know it has given m the shits from about 6 months after owning it. At least it feels like that long. Anyway I believe I have come up with a workable solution to my gearbox hatred. It's probably not a solution that would suit everyone but will work for me hopefully.

[Pickle]

Well I really didn't want to spend money on this car because as many would know it has given m the shits from about 6 months after owning it. At least it feels like that long. Anyway I believe I have come up with a workable solution to my gearbox hatred. It's probably not a solution that would suit everyone but will work for me hopefully.

That should do the trick!
Dave

[rrichmond]

I've had this problem as well in the past. I have a bull bar on the front and I believe is may be affecting the cooling of the transmission fluid.

The times it has occurred is as follows:

1) Towing a trailer on the beach of Fraser Island travelling at around 70-80km/hr. Last time I did not have a scangauge so I will be monitoring the temperature of the Auto Transmission fluid this time. When doing some fairly heavy work, I have had the temp up to around 116 C, but it never stays there to long.

Last time on my way home from Fraser ... along the beach it started to do it - around 35-40km into the trip up / down the beach. I ended up driving through some water and it stopped. Hence why I suspect temperature.

Things I have done to prepare myself this time:
1) Added two high speed fans right in front of the Auto Transmission cooler
2) Added the Scanguage so I can monitor the temp.
3) Added a torque converter Lockup control

I noticed on another trip we simply slowed down.... didn't push the car as hard... and the problem stopped.

2) Towing up the Toowomba range - Had to just go up the range slower in the end. Got up their fine, but its an eerie feeling watching the vehicles behind you.

Never had an issue when I am not towing. The issue only arise when I tow the trailer (around 2000 kg).

[amec]

I don't think it is heat related. Both times i had the limp mode my AT was at 82 and 92c with the camper trailer faithfully following along behind. Last week i was on a rough steep windy dirt road and driving to try and get the limp mode and i couldnt (no trailer) AT temp got to 104c.

OJ has also said previously he believes it is load related and not necessarily heat.

Youre right about changing driving style too. Take it easy and work at keeping the TC locked and youre sweet.

[old Jack]

There are dozens of reasons that the engine and auto combination will go into limp mode.Typically limp mode will lock the auto into 2nd gear, and limit then cut engine power, but not all limp modes are the same, there are subtle differences in the indications you get but results are all the same with engine power being cut and the auto locked in 2nd.

If you get a limp mode followed by a "Check Engine Light" then the code will be saved in the freeze frame data of the ECU's, this can be accessed and cleared by using a MUT II or a Scan Tool. Some codes need to occur several times before you get an incident recorded and a CEL. If the ECU's read a signal that is either higher or lower than the acceptable range then this can cause a limp mode, it doesn't even have to be an issue with the engine or auto but simply a faulty sensor or wiring. The auto will lock in 2nd gear but NOT flash if the limp mode is caused by an engine problem.

There are 2 limp modes I know of associated with the auto trans when either of these happen the gear display indicator on the dash FLASHES.
If the limp mode is related to ATF temperatures being high then the ATF TEMP warning light will come ON and the gear display will FLASH.
The 2nd cause of the limp mode (in my opinion) is related to the torque convertor slipping for too longer period, this is the most reported limp mode, where the trans initially locks in 3rd then 2nd, gear display FLASHES, engine power is reduced then finally cut completely. When this happens it can be reset by releasing the assertor pedal, moving the trans into "N" then back into "D". This can be done on the move so no need to stop and pull over.

Best way to avoid this limp mode is to change down to 4th or even 3rd on long climbs particularly if towing or travelling heavy. If you stay in "D" or "5th" under load conditions with the torque convertor unlocked then you will get a limp mode!

cheers, OJ.

[whereswes]

If the limp mode is related to ATF temperatures being high then the ATF TEMP warning light will come ON and the gear display will FLASH.

Hi OJ,

Just wanting your opinion on what would you class as high ATF temp? Last weekend up in the high country I was running at or around 90c quite often, not towing, and on a couple of long low range ascents popped the 100c mark.

I'm guessing this is probably around 15c or so lower than activating limp mode for high ATF but I recon if any of those climbs were a few hundred metres longer, I might have found myself in trouble.

Is 100c in these conditions normal operating temp? My CWTs were running in the mid to high 80s and never passed 90.

Cheers
Wes

[whereswes]

Sorry, meant to add, wondering if anyone was running one of these.

http://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/nomad-heavy-duty-valve-body-to-suit-mitsubishi-challenger-5-speed/

Cheers
Wes

[02-SR5]

Looks great on paper.

But they have an affiliation with a certain magazine, I am very hesitant to purchase anything from them.

I have been burnt a couple of times, including purchasing a camper trailer from XXX they use to endorse.

[old Jack]

Hi Wes,

Answers (Opinions) in your post below in blue.

Hi OJ,

Just wanting your opinion on what would you class as high ATF temp? Last weekend up in the high country I was running at or around 90c quite often, not towing, and on a couple of long low range ascents popped the 100c mark.
According to the Service and Technical Manuals the ATF Temp warning light comes on at 135C and off at 115C. I have had both my ATF and Coolant temperatures to 116C on the Scanguage, towing 3000kg up the SE Freeway on a 34C day (never again!)

I'm guessing this is probably around 15c or so lower than activating limp mode for high ATF but I recon if any of those climbs were a few hundred metres longer, I might have found myself in trouble.
I really believe it is a period of time, with a set throttle position and comparing the input and output shaft speed sensors, which determine the amount of slip occurring in the torque convertor, that triggers the limp mode.

Is 100c in these conditions normal operating temp? My CWTs were running in the mid to high 80s and never passed 90.
These temperatures are normal, modrn CRD engine run hot (85C to 95C) and with the 50/50 coolant combined with the high system pressure have a boiling temp of 127C (theoretical).

Cheers
Wes

I have not ever seen anyone on this forum report the AT Temp light coming "ON"

cheers, OJ.

[whereswes]

Hi Wes,

Answers (Opinions) in your post below in blue.

cheers, OJ.

Thanks OJ.

Guess the last question which I probably didn't word too well is if running ATFs in the low 100s when off roading should be considered normal or if it might suggest an ATF cooling issue.

I've got the Border Track coming up on Queens Birthday and want to make sure I've got no ATF cooling issues to resolve before I hit the dunes and soft sands.

I didn't have a scanguage when I did Wyperfeld but the almost constant thermo fan running let me know things were pretty warm under the bonnet. Have done some tests on this since and will update an earlier thread shortly.

Cheers
Wes