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Vehicle pulses when braking - NOT warped disks.

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  • GHendo
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 4375
    • Northern NSW

    Vehicle pulses when braking - NOT warped disks.

    Thought I’d throw this out there to get some opinions.

    For a while now I’ve noticed when I slow down for an intersection etc. – throw the gear lever into neutral as I glide to a stop and apply the brake. I get this, what can best be described as ‘pulsing’ or ‘surging’ feeling in the car – a little bit like having warped brake disks but different – AND the brake pedal doesn’t go in and out.

    The brake disks and pads are relatively new as are all the wheel bearings – most of the CV’s have been repacked with grease in the late couple of years when I’ve renewed the boots and they don’t appear to have excess wear.

    I normally drive everywhere off road with the short stick in 4H but yesterday, just for the hell of it, I decided to leave it in 2H. And, low and behold, the pulsing appears to have disappeared – I’m going to keep experimenting to make sure I’m right.

    My question is, if this is the case, why would the vehicle start this ‘pulsing’ while braking when driven in 4H? I’ve had it in 4H off road for years and never had this happen until a few months ago. Any ideas ?

    Cheers
    Geoff
    03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11606
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    Hi Geoff,


    I have had pulsing brakes but the discs were not warped when checked.
    It turned out to be brake pad material deposited on the discs in a few places so as you applied the brakes gently the friction between the pads and the disc was not consistent and this resulted in a pulsing feeling under gentle brakes.



    I upgraded my discs rather than getting the factory discs skimmed but I have heard of people being able to remove the deposits on the discs by multiple very hard and extended applications of the brakes.


    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • GHendo
      Valued Member
      • Mar 2012
      • 4375
      • Northern NSW

      #3
      Thanks OJ … that certainly warrants investigation and I think you might have hit the nail on the head. I have slotted discs and Bendix pads – can’t remember if they’re heavy duty. I probably didn’t bed them in properly when I installed them too, so it looks like that may certainly be the answer.

      Cheers
      Geoff
      03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

      Comment

      • old Jack
        Regular
        • Jun 2011
        • 11606
        • Adelaide, South Australia.

        #4
        Originally posted by GHendo View Post
        Thanks OJ … that certainly warrants investigation and I think you might have hit the nail on the head. I have slotted discs and Bendix pads – can’t remember if they’re heavy duty. I probably didn’t bed them in properly when I installed them too, so it looks like that may certainly be the answer.

        Cheers
        Geoff
        Hi Geoff,
        If you have Bendix pads with the blue titanium stripe then here (apparently) do not need bedding in. On 4wds with 4 disc brakes in most driving you only need yo be gentle on the brakes unless you are heavily loaded, towing or drive in hilly terrain. Just like an engine that benifets from a good long run, I think the brakes need a good hard use occasionally to stop pad material deposits.

        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

        Comment

        • Having Fun
          Senior Member
          • Jun 2015
          • 373
          • Adelaide

          #5
          What brings that theory undone unfortunately, is that in the OP, it says that the pulsing doesn't happen in 4H.


          I'm thinking (guessing) that the pulsing is ABS related. Happy to be corrected though!

          Comment

          • old Jack
            Regular
            • Jun 2011
            • 11606
            • Adelaide, South Australia.

            #6
            Originally posted by Having Fun View Post
            What brings that theory undone unfortunately, is that in the OP, it says that the pulsing doesn't happen in 4H.


            I'm thinking (guessing) that the pulsing is ABS related. Happy to be corrected though!
            OP is stating pulsing is only happening in 4H and not detectable in 2H.
            Front brakes seem to be more susceptible to pad material deposit and maybe this can only be sensed when in 4H?

            OJ.
            2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
            MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

            Comment

            • Tripplec84
              Junior Member
              • Feb 2017
              • 39
              • Adelaide

              #7
              I have the same issue. Well, not sure if it is an issue. I fitted new rotors and pads all around 33000km ago, but it wasn’t long after fitting them that I experienced the same surging. It’s very slight and only really noticeable when I slow down at low speed and with just slight brake braking.

              When I did the brakes I also did new seal kits in all the caliper cylinders so I’ve never been too bothered by the surging because I know everything should be ok, excepts maybe the HBB.

              Today I changed from 4H to 2H and the surging seems to disappear as well. Strange one.

              By the way mine is a NM 3.5 auto and I currently have DBA slotted rotors with Bendix 4WD pads.

              Very interesting read though about bedding in the new brakes. Wish I had known that 33000km ago.

              Comment

              • GHendo
                Valued Member
                • Mar 2012
                • 4375
                • Northern NSW

                #8
                Originally posted by Tripplec84 View Post
                I have the same issue. Well, not sure if it is an issue. I fitted new rotors and pads all around 33000km ago, but it wasn’t long after fitting them that I experienced the same surging. It’s very slight and only really noticeable when I slow down at low speed and with just slight brake braking.

                When I did the brakes I also did new seal kits in all the caliper cylinders so I’ve never been too bothered by the surging because I know everything should be ok, excepts maybe the HBB.

                Today I changed from 4H to 2H and the surging seems to disappear as well. Strange one.

                By the way mine is a NM 3.5 auto and I currently have DBA slotted rotors with Bendix 4WD pads.

                Very interesting read though about bedding in the new brakes. Wish I had known that 33000km ago.
                That is really interesting – we have a lot in common. I installed DBA slotted rotors and Bendix pads (pretty sure they were 4WD ones) AND I rebuilt the callipers at the same time. The pulsing is slight and only noticeable when slowing down at low speed. I've done around 60,000km. since I installed them however.

                When I get around to it I’m going to pull the rotors off and get them machined – the local guy tells me he can take a minimal amount off them. If that doesn’t fix the problem I will at least be able to dismiss that theory.

                Cheers
                Geoff
                03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

                Comment

                • Lance
                  Valued Member
                  • Aug 2009
                  • 1605
                  • Melbourne

                  #9
                  Is DBA able to shed any light on this issue ?
                  2005 NP Platinum Edition, DiD Auto
                  2009 VW Crafter motorhome

                  Comment

                  • Tripplec84
                    Junior Member
                    • Feb 2017
                    • 39
                    • Adelaide

                    #10
                    Originally posted by GHendo View Post
                    That is really interesting – we have a lot in common. I installed DBA slotted rotors and Bendix pads (pretty sure they were 4WD ones) AND I rebuilt the callipers at the same time. The pulsing is slight and only noticeable when slowing down at low speed. I've done around 60,000km. since I installed them however.

                    When I get around to it I’m going to pull the rotors off and get them machined – the local guy tells me he can take a minimal amount off thpadsem. If that doesn’t fix the problem I will at least be able to dismiss that theory.

                    Cheers
                    Geoff


                    Sounds like a plan Geoff, I might need to do the same when I do pads again.

                    I wonder if anyone else has this problem and if they also have DBA rotors and Bendix pads , maybe the fault lies with the product?

                    I’ve never head anything bad about the 2 and they are quite reputable which is why I decided on them.

                    My wife drives a VW Polo and I recently fitted new DBA slotted rotors and Bendix pads to her car. I will take note of the way it brakes next time I drive it, her car has however only done about 2000km since I changed them. Will be interesting if it does the same thing though.

                    Cheers
                    Charlie

                    Comment

                    • Marz
                      Member
                      • Jun 2013
                      • 91
                      • Outback Lilydale VIC

                      #11
                      Was going to post a long winded logical possible explanation, but thought better of it, LOL...


                      Check the front prop shaft, i.e. universals (greased them lately? last time you replaced them?), possible that the prop shaft could be ever so slightly bent or lost a balance weight.


                      I don't think it's a disc/hub/etc problem. You change the way the drive train runs (by selecting 2H or 4H) and the problem comes and goes..... Check the drive train.

                      Comment

                      • spot01
                        Valued Member
                        • Apr 2011
                        • 4708
                        • Adelaide

                        #12
                        I wonder if it is something to do with the tyres that is more noticable in 4H?
                        Are they getting on a bit?
                        Older tyres sometimes get a bit "out of round" - might be worth swapping them front to back to see if anything changes?
                        I'm also a fan of giving the brakes a few hard stops from higher speed to clean them off.
                        Pajero NX MY21 GLS

                        Comment

                        • GHendo
                          Valued Member
                          • Mar 2012
                          • 4375
                          • Northern NSW

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Marz View Post
                          Was going to post a long winded logical possible explanation, but thought better of it, LOL...


                          Check the front prop shaft, i.e. universals (greased them lately? last time you replaced them?), possible that the prop shaft could be ever so slightly bent or lost a balance weight.


                          I don't think it's a disc/hub/etc problem. You change the way the drive train runs (by selecting 2H or 4H) and the problem comes and goes..... Check the drive train.
                          Hi Marz

                          Yeah, the drive train was something I had been thinking about from the beginning. There is only one grease nipple on the whole vehicle, and that is on a universal on the drive shaft that comes out of the front diff – and ‘yes’, I do grease it.

                          All the front CV’s etc. are original and have done about 330,000km. I thought they were ok but got a mechanic to check them as well – he confirmed they were fine. I have repacked them with grease when replacing boots at least once, each.

                          On a trip to Brisbane last week I switched between 2H and 4H and while the pulsing was not quite as bad in 2H, it was still noticeable. My son, who I picked up in Brisbane, noticed the pulsing right away even though I hadn’t mentioned it so maybe I’m getting used to it !

                          Cheers
                          Geoff
                          03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

                          Comment

                          • GHendo
                            Valued Member
                            • Mar 2012
                            • 4375
                            • Northern NSW

                            #14
                            Originally posted by spot01 View Post
                            I wonder if it is something to do with the tyres that is more noticable in 4H?
                            Are they getting on a bit?
                            Older tyres sometimes get a bit "out of round" - might be worth swapping them front to back to see if anything changes?
                            I'm also a fan of giving the brakes a few hard stops from higher speed to clean them off.
                            Hi Spot

                            I’m running Copper ST/Maxx and they are pretty new – only done about 12,000km. and are due to be rotated, but I have my doubts if that is the cause of my problem.

                            When I get a chance I’ll take the rotors off and get them machined to see if it makes any difference. That will be my starting point. If I still have the problem I’ll probably then look at the drive train.

                            Cheers
                            Geoff
                            03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

                            Comment

                            • old Jack
                              Regular
                              • Jun 2011
                              • 11606
                              • Adelaide, South Australia.

                              #15
                              Originally posted by GHendo View Post
                              Hi Spot

                              I’m running Copper ST/Maxx and they are pretty new – only done about 12,000km. and are due to be rotated, but I have my doubts if that is the cause of my problem.

                              When I get a chance I’ll take the rotors off and get them machined to see if it makes any difference. That will be my starting point. If I still have the problem I’ll probably then look at the drive train.

                              Cheers
                              Geoff
                              Hi Geoff,

                              Have you tried the multiple very hard applications of the brakes yet. Do 5 or 6 full braking stops from 80kph and get the brakes nice and hot, just so you can smell them and then go for an easy drive with to let them cool down. If it is pad material deposit on the rotors this should wear it off.


                              OJ.
                              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                              Comment

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