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  • Pebbles
    Member
    • Sep 2014
    • 64
    • Queensland

    Automatic Gear Shift Shaft Insert

    Hi All,
    I'm seeking some information and clarity in an issue I have with my automatic gear shift shaft. I'm not exactly sure what it is called so for intentional purposes I will call it the Gear shift (Photo enclosed). My issue is with the white plastic insert that runs down the shaft. The purpose of which I assume is a lock to prevent the vehicle accidentally being placed in reverse whilst driving.

    Today I pulled the bezel off the front centre consul to gain access to the cigarette lighter socket that had shorted out. During the process of reinstalling the consul I have inadvertently knocked and broken the white plastic insert, level with the top of the shaft.

    Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace this part. Does it just sit in the shaft or is it screwed in which I suspect it does. I am able to change gears however I am running the risk of engaging reverse during travel.

    Many thanks and regards, Les
    Attached Files
  • Dicko1
    Valued Member
    • Dec 2014
    • 7634
    • Cairns, FNQ

    #2
    Originally posted by Pebbles View Post
    Hi All,
    I'm seeking some information and clarity in an issue I have with my automatic gear shift shaft. I'm not exactly sure what it is called so for intentional purposes I will call it the Gear shift (Photo enclosed). My issue is with the white plastic insert that runs down the shaft. The purpose of which I assume is a lock to prevent the vehicle accidentally being placed in reverse whilst driving.

    Today I pulled the bezel off the front centre consul to gain access to the cigarette lighter socket that had shorted out. During the process of reinstalling the consul I have inadvertently knocked and broken the white plastic insert, level with the top of the shaft.

    Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace this part. Does it just sit in the shaft or is it screwed in which I suspect it does. I am able to change gears however I am running the risk of engaging reverse during travel.

    Many thanks and regards, Les

    I have sent you a pm. I fixed mine 2 years ago and still works fine.

    My fix...


    I purchased a length of 4mm brass rod. The piece of white plastic rod (the original) that broke off measured 55mm. It was slightly under 4mm in thickness. I used some wet and dry emery paper to bring the brass rod down from 4mm diameter to about 3.7mm diameter... When I installed the brass rod back into the black shroud that fits in the gear lever change grip I had to also make sure the ends of the brass road were smooth and not a sharp finish, otherwise it got stuck. After about 2 years it is working well and I removed it this morning to take the length measurement and the diameter. No signs of wear anywhere...as I would expect. I would also suggest that using 3.5mm brass rod would also work. 3.5mm is easier to buy and would save sanding. I tried superglue but to no avail. The brass rod fix is cheap, quick and will last forever. Good luck

    edit....another possibility if your pushed for time....Use a drill bit (say 3.7mm) and carefully grind down the drill end. The end that goes into the drill chuck should already be a nice smooth rounded end..
    Last edited by Dicko1; 25-04-18, 10:24 AM.
    Dicko. FNQ

    2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

    TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

    Comment

    • stevemc181
      Valued Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 2940
      • Thornlie/Perth

      #3
      I've attached an exploded view diagram from partsouq that shows how its all connected.
      It looks like the part number is MR477642, but you'd need to check your specific Vin Number and ensure its correct. Amayama has it listed for $107.00 + Freight, its an expensive piece of plastic!

      Mitsubishi MR477642 LEVER,A/T SHIFT LINK. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.


      Are you looking for reliable Mitsubishi parts? Then go to our online store and use auto parts catalogs or speed up your search by entering the part number!
      Attached Files
      Last edited by stevemc181; 25-04-18, 11:44 PM.
      2012 NW Activ with all the fruit, stripped what I could for my new build and handed over to the Mrs as a daily driver.

      Current vehicle: 2016 Y61 GU Patrol Legend series Auto, (Last of the Breed)
      3505kg GVM Upgrade and 2" Lift | Warn XD 9000 Winch | Factory steel bar, towbar, snorkel, alloy roof rack | 285/70/17 (33") Mickey T ATZ P3's | 3" Manta Exhaust | ORS Drawer System | Manual Boost Controller | ECU Remap |

      Comment

      • Dicko1
        Valued Member
        • Dec 2014
        • 7634
        • Cairns, FNQ

        #4
        Originally posted by stevemc181 View Post
        I've attached an exploded view diagram from partsouq that shows how its all connected.
        It looks like the part number is MR477642, but you'd need to check your specific Vin Number and ensure its correct. Amayama has it listed for $107.00 + Freight, its an expensive piece of plastic!

        Mitsubishi MR477642 LEVER,A/T SHIFT LINK. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.


        https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/mits...LRHF&group=200

        When I broke mine I am sure that it was a lot more complicated than just buying a stick of plastic and putting it in.. Otherwise I would have done so. Fairly sure that mine was part of a bigger module set-up.. Could be wrong but I do remember trying to see if it was a simple fix by just installing a plastic rod and the deciding that my method did a good job. Maybe Pebbles will know as he just taken his auto trans cover off.
        Dicko. FNQ

        2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

        TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

        Comment

        • Pebbles
          Member
          • Sep 2014
          • 64
          • Queensland

          #5
          Hi Steven,
          Many thanks for your reply and detailed breakdown of the part. You did well to find that, much obliged. I’ve been conversing with Dicko and how he dealt with his problem and am going to follow suit by inserting a made up rod and give that a whirl first.
          As you say, a lot of money for a small piece of plastic. Just as well we think outside the square. I don’t know how these people can lie straight in bed charging absorbenant prices like that. I bet if I rang a Mitsubishi dealer, that price would be double. Thanks again. I’ll post my results in due course. I’m hoping I’ll have the same success as Dicko.
          Regards.

          Comment

          • psproule
            Valued Member
            • Jun 2007
            • 3680
            • Googong, NSW

            #6
            Replaced mine with coathanger wire.

            Pat
            2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
            2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4

            Comment

            • pb4x2
              Member
              • May 2015
              • 131
              • Deception Bay Qld 4508

              #7
              automatic gear shift shaft insert.

              Just a thought how about metal knitting needles they are available in different gauges [diameters]? As mentioned I also think outside the square.
              2012 PB Challenger 4x2 auto

              30mm Whiteline Front Sway Bar / SPV Delete / Catch can / Auto-mate / Lowered Front 35mm Rear 50mm / Side Steps Lowered 20mm / Rear Spoiler / Sony Double DIN xav-ax1000 / Rear Camera / All the Chrome bits

              Comment

              • Pebbles
                Member
                • Sep 2014
                • 64
                • Queensland

                #8
                All of the above will work. I completed the task today by cutting a 3mm (tad over) metal weed matting peg purchased from Bunnings. Not much thicker than a coat hanger actually. Ironically today, I did also consider the knitting needle concept and would have perhaps gone down that track if my first effort had failed. It’s times like this that you do have to get creative if you want to save money. Pleased to say I now have a functioning gear stick again. I must say, I was a little worried there for a while, but it’s with the help from guys like you that won the day.
                Thank you

                Comment

                • Dicko1
                  Valued Member
                  • Dec 2014
                  • 7634
                  • Cairns, FNQ

                  #9
                  Good to hear Les. I also hope that this thread may help some other person who will make the same mistake..

                  Dicko. FNQ

                  2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

                  TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

                  Comment

                  • Jasonmc73
                    Valued Member
                    • Jun 2019
                    • 2692
                    • Brisbane

                    #10
                    In preperation, the brass rod, where can you buy brass rod?
                    Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                    Comment

                    • Seigried
                      Valued Member
                      • Apr 2016
                      • 732
                      • brisbane

                      #11
                      At a scale model hobby shop




                      Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

                      Comment

                      • Dicko1
                        Valued Member
                        • Dec 2014
                        • 7634
                        • Cairns, FNQ

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Dicko1 View Post
                        I have sent you a pm. I fixed mine 2 years ago and still works fine.

                        My fix...


                        I purchased a length of 4mm brass rod. The piece of white plastic rod (the original) that broke off measured 55mm. It was slightly under 4mm in thickness. I used some wet and dry emery paper to bring the brass rod down from 4mm diameter to about 3.7mm diameter... When I installed the brass rod back into the black shroud that fits in the gear lever change grip I had to also make sure the ends of the brass road were smooth and not a sharp finish, otherwise it got stuck. After about 2 years it is working well and I removed it this morning to take the length measurement and the diameter. No signs of wear anywhere...as I would expect. I would also suggest that using 3.5mm brass rod would also work. 3.5mm is easier to buy and would save sanding. I tried superglue but to no avail. The brass rod fix is cheap, quick and will last forever. Good luck

                        edit....another possibility if your pushed for time....Use a drill bit (say 3.7mm) and carefully grind down the drill end. The end that goes into the drill chuck should already be a nice smooth rounded end..



                        UPDATE...


                        After 4 years it is still working fine. Got my piece of brass from the link provided by Siegried (above post).
                        Dicko. FNQ

                        2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

                        TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

                        Comment

                        • MartinDanger
                          Member
                          • Aug 2020
                          • 141
                          • Margaret River

                          #13
                          Thanks for the info

                          Thanks for the info. I just broke that plastic rod while installing the Auto-mate kit.
                          I managed to break that part by tightening up too much the screws that hold the top of the gear selector. The holes for the screws go through to the centre of the shaft and when I tightened those screws up too much, they impinged on that plastic rod. I then tried to press the button to get it out of Park and, using a bit too much force, snap!

                          Comment

                          • Ozzz
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2019
                            • 355
                            • Brisbane

                            #14
                            Originally posted by MartinDanger View Post
                            Thanks for the info. I just broke that plastic rod while installing the Auto-mate kit.
                            I managed to break that part by tightening up too much the screws that hold the top of the gear selector. The holes for the screws go through to the centre of the shaft and when I tightened those screws up too much, they impinged on that plastic rod. I then tried to press the button to get it out of Park and, using a bit too much force, snap!
                            Mine broke 20 mins ago, this thread is life saver
                            My20 Nx Gls Graphite | Tow Bar| Plates Sum,Trans&Rear| Munji Egr| Provent Catch Can| Automate Pro| Rock Slider| Paddle Shift| 265 70 r17 Goodyear Silenttrac| Koni 90&88 plus Kings| Tuningkit Race​​​​​

                            Comment

                            • Dicko1
                              Valued Member
                              • Dec 2014
                              • 7634
                              • Cairns, FNQ

                              #15
                              Start with a length 55mm and you may have to trim up to 10mm off depending on breakage point.
                              Dicko. FNQ

                              2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.

                              TIME....1000 times more valuable than money

                              Comment

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