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Just out of interest. A question to those of you that have had or cleaned the manifold your selves.
Did you do it because you where getting a CEL or noticeable decrease in performance, or just for peace of mind?
Also how noticeable of a difference was there after it was done-Smoother running, performance, fuel economy?
My ranger has 170,000km (I bought it with 150,000 km on it) and only have just recently put a blanking plate the EGR. No record of the intake manifold already being cleaned and pulled the MAP sensor and cleand it the other day and it was so caked in carbon you couldn't see anything.
At the stage I'm not noticing any ill efects and wondering if it really needs done or not.
Sold 2004 PA Challenger
Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.
Just out of interest. A question to those of you that have had or cleaned the manifold your selves.
Did you do it because you where getting a CEL or noticeable decrease in performance, or just for peace of mind?
Also how noticeable of a difference was there after it was done-Smoother running, performance, fuel economy?
My ranger has 170,000km (I bought it with 150,000 km on it) and only have just recently put a blanking plate the EGR. No record of the intake manifold already being cleaned and pulled the MAP sensor and cleand it the other day and it was so caked in carbon you couldn't see anything.
At the stage I'm not noticing any ill efects and wondering if it really needs done or not.
The fact you've done 170k means there is already a good amount of buildup.
Aussie_dan cleaned his at 90k and got 1L/100k better economy. Mine has 5mm of buildup, which equates to a 30% reduction.
Because buildup is a slow process, you dont notice the performance slowly drop.
Others report saying their engine can finally breath again.
It's worth the effort.
2016 NX Exceed 3.2 DiD, BullBar | 2" OME lift | Safari snorkel | UHF | Towbar | Tow pro elite ECB | Full Bushskinz UBP and side steps | HID highbeam upgrade | 9" LED spots | 100Ahr Aux. Battery | HPD Oil catch can | Flappy Paddles | auto-matePRO 2016 LC200 Sahara V8 Diesel,Lots of Mods too Checkout our products at MM4x4 http://www.mm4x4.com.auauto-mate and lockup-mate for Mitsubishi's and Toyota's
Cheers for that m and m. Still looking a getting it cleaned. I will prob take it to someone though, I think it's abit over my head. Not sure what it's like on the Pajeros but on the ranger you have to remove the fuel rail to get to the manifold and that's the bit that concerns me.
Sold 2004 PA Challenger
Current 2010 XLT Ford Ranger. TJM winch bar, ARB rear bar, Gme uhf, Goodyear Wranglers, dual battery, light force blitz 240s, hard korr lightbar, bushskinz bash plates. Helical torque lock lsd.
Steve54,
Looks like your question was missed, the SPV is a kind of electrical devise that is connected between two existing connections that ( as I understand it) tells the system that the car is warm and therefore no need to open the EGR valve.
I think this stops the gunk build up. Someone with better knowledge might like to provide you with a more technically correct description.
I installed one from new so I hope it is keeping the manifold clear of gunk.
Cheers
NW Platinum MY 2012 DiD auto, Pearl White, Safari snorkel, full tint, all plastics, reverse sensors, H/D tow bar, spare wheel lift, full leather seats & trim, GME uhf, home built storage, dual battery, ARB Deluxe bar, Lovell HD springs with Ultimate shocks.
Steve54,
Looks like your question was missed, the SPV is a kind of electrical devise that is connected between two existing connections that ( as I understand it) tells the system that the car is warm and therefore no need to open the EGR valve.
Close!
The MAF sensor has a temperature sensor integral to the assembly. As temperature decreases, resistance across the terminals increases.
The SPV mod intercepts these terminals and adds additional resistance to the circuit - this tells the ECU that ambient temperature is low (10° and under, from memory).
Under low temperature conditions, the EGR system will not activate.
If you're handy with a soldering iron and have ten minutes up your sleeve, a 4K7 resistor does the job just fine.
Thanks Spanish - I knew someone would be able to describe it correctly.
Too technical for me, I am just happy to have a rough idea of what it is supposed to be doing.
NW Platinum MY 2012 DiD auto, Pearl White, Safari snorkel, full tint, all plastics, reverse sensors, H/D tow bar, spare wheel lift, full leather seats & trim, GME uhf, home built storage, dual battery, ARB Deluxe bar, Lovell HD springs with Ultimate shocks.
I've had to eat humble pie in the past when I've said "that chemical won't do squat" to be shown that it will actually do what it says on the can so I wonder if anyone has got any actual evidence/experience that these sprays don't work.
We read a lot about people saying things like Remove the manifold, it's the only way; Sprays don't work, don't waste your money and so on, but has anyone got a before and after of using only the spray as per the directions and can prove they either do or don't work. In all my looking I've not found any actual info that they don't, just plenty of people saying to not waste your money.
2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar. 2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.
Have done liqui moly clean did that about 18 months ago.Also when l did this l used oven cleaner as well it does work but in all honesty inlet manifold needs to be removed and cleaned manually,as liqui moly only removes some of the gunk.
Recently l had Berwick Mitsubishi do Valve adjust inlet manifold clean coolant computer relearn oil and filter which l supplied oil "nulon" and filter and full safety check $1500 total very impressed
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