Wipers and lights not working?

[disco stu]

Is there any smarts/microcontrollers in that, or just a bunch of relays? Can you pop the covers off all the relays to check and clean the contacts? The relays themselves shouldn't be hard to treat if you can get to the underside of the board they are mounted on, but often the covers pop of easily so it's probably quicker testing with the covers off-power to the contacts and see if it closes, if so a quick clean of the contacts and move to the next one

[simonclur]

FRONT-ECU relay testing

Is there any smarts/microcontrollers in that, or just a bunch of relays? Can you pop the covers off all the relays to check and clean the contacts? The relays themselves shouldn't be hard to treat if you can get to the underside of the board they are mounted on, but often the covers pop of easily so it's probably quicker testing with the covers off-power to the contacts and see if it closes, if so a quick clean of the contacts and move to the next one

Yes there are a few smarts in the Front-ECU and it's very hard to get the lids off those relays in there, so I rather opted for some basic tests of the relays and found them all to be functioning correctly.
To test them, I figured out that you need to check the Ohm rating on the top, then measure the ohms between the pins underneath until you get about the same ohm reading - this is the relay coil and you can then test the relay by placing 12v across those two pins and the relay should trigger (the distinct click). I then went further to test the continuity between the other pins which were previously not connected before the relay triggers and these were then connected after the relay triggered. I didn't bother testing how much load they would carry.

I also tested the capacitor by setting the multimeter to 2000k ohms and after shorting the two pins with a screwdriver to ground it, I connected the multimeter -ve (COM) to the pin of the capacitor with the dark stripe down the side (Gnd) and multimeter +ve (Ohm) to the +ve pin - then watched the reading on the multimeter to confirm the resistance rose slowly and evenly as the capacitor charged up.

[simonclur]

FIXED! Wipers, Washer-pump and High-beam headlights issue

Hi guys,

Pretty excited - after 2 years of procrastination and never having the time for this, I finally found a weekend to roll-up the sleeves and get stuck into this issue.
I'll note before I get started that others have solved this problem in other ways and I'll point to each of the components others had success in replacing to resolve the issue. Mine was special, really special as it turned out to be a corroded wire in the loom - hard to locate!

So here goes... hopefully this one-day saves someone else the extreme hassle this caused me...and saves someone else from scrapping their Pajero...

Firstly, if you have all the symptoms mentioned, your FRONT-ECU is most likely in fail-safe mode and this could be for a number of reasons:

• Faulty Front-ECU
• Faulty ground connection wiring
• Shorting or broken wiring
• bad ETACS-ECU
• bad Column-ECU
• bad Column Switches
• Poor junction connections
• unseated Junction connections
• Wiring pins/plugs in junction connections not seating/aligning

So, first I'll list all the places you're going need to check, in order of difficulty...

1. Fuses (under the bonnet)
2. Fuses (drivers-side, under the ETACS-ECU)
3. Relays (under the bonnet)
4. Relays (Drives-side, under the ETACS-ECU)
5. Junction D28 - Big white connector with black latch - Left passenger foot-well, behind the kick-board on the left
6. Front-ECU (under the bonnet, in the fuse-box)
7. Check ground connections (need the wiring diagram)
8. Steering Column Switches (Column-ECU)
9. SWS Communications wire (the only Violet wire!)
10. Datalink Connector - near the OBD connector, above drivers left foot.
11. ETACS-ECU (on the back of the fuse box, near the drivers right knee)
12. Wiring looms - Steering column to ETACS-ECU, Steering column to Datalink connector, Datalink connector to Junction D28, Junction D28 to Front-ECU

Note, the hardest thing to access is the ETACS-ECU - it will ultimately require that you remove the dashboard to access it sufficiently for testing and replacement. It's not as big a job as you may think, it will take you 6-8 hours to get the dashboard out.

Before you begin, make sure you have a can of contact cleaner spray - spray and clean all connections as you process them!

Most of these diagnostics and parts replacements should be done with the -ve cable of the battery disconnected and wrapped in insulation tape to prevent it connecting again if it decides to bend back into place onto the terminal while you're working.

Check the fuses (put a multimeter on Ohms setting and measure continuity across the back of each fuse, checking that you get anything other than 0L or 1 but ideally 0.0 which means no-resistance and thus fuse is not burnt-out). Each fuse *should* have little metal testing areas exposed on the back for you to poke the multi-meter into these to test them in-place. You should also be able to test for 12v at the fuse by connecting -ve (COM) of the multimeter to the chassis and the other +ve (V) lead to the fuse. You may need to turn the ignition to ON to get voltage to the fuse.
I'll include my voltage readings here for reference now that I have mine working:
<voltage readings reference table to be included>

To check the relays, find ones that are the same and switch them all around, to see if something else breaks in another function of the car or if your current issues are resolved. Just be careful to make sure the relays are the same - read the part number on the back. You can also manually test each relay to see if they click, make good contact and can carry current.
<add a guide/video for testing relays>

Next check Wiring Junction connector D28 - this one is located in the LHS passenger footwell, behind the kick board by the left foot. It's the big white one which should have a big black latch over it. It might be counter-intuitive at first but when the latch is up, the junction connector is seated, when it's down, it pushes the junction connector out. So first make sure it's up, if not make it so and test. If it was up, then push it down and jiggle the connector out. Now test the various wires going in are seated correctly and if you test continuity from the wire at the back to the connector in the front, you can make sure the wires haven't come free from the sockets which accept the pins. Also clean the pins on the female side of the junction connector with contact cleaner in case they have become corroded.
Specifically important here - check that the violet wire makes good contact - this is the SWS Communications line.

To check the front-ECU, contact a wrecker and get a replacement but make sure it's off a vehicle which doesn't have the same problems - just call the wrecker and ask them. You can also open the ECU and test the relays inside.
I used A1 Pajero Parts in Glenwood, Queensland - Peter was an absolute pleasure to deal with, priced very reasonably and I received all the parts I wanted + some extras within 1-2 days in Brisbane.

Right, now you're getting to the fun...
To check the ground connections, get hold of the wiring diagrams and go and make sure you wiggle and test the connectivity to ground of each connection. I suggest making yourself a some long (2m) multimeter leads and put the multimeter on continuity setting so it emits a tone when you touch the leads together. Now go test all the associated ground connections, connecting one of the multimeter to an exposed metal part of the chassis and the other end to the source of the ground wire - if you hear the multimeter emit a tone, that ground cable is successfully earthed.

Next you're going to need to check the steering column switches. Before you go here - MAKE SURE THAT BATTERY IS NOT CONNECTED - playing in the steering column could trigger the airbags and if you're too close it's going to give you a nasty headache!
Take the covers off the steering wheel and you should see the column switches clearly. On the wiper switch, theres a printed circuit board (PCB) into which the 6-pin connector with the violet wire plugs in. The violet wire should be in pin3. This is your SWS communications line. Unplug this plug and connect the multi-meter to pin3 (violet wire), making sure you have a good connection.
With the one end of the multi-meter connected to pin3 of that plug, check continuity to the following locations making sure there is continuity (in order of ease of access):

1. DataLink connected, pin3 (violet wire)
2. D28 connector, pin23 (violet wire)
3. FRONT-ECU (take it out and connect to pin22 - that's where the violet wire comes into the FRONT-ECU) - see pics attached.
4. ETACT-ECU - On the side of the ETACS, the violet wire connects in, unplug that connector so you can access it and make a good connection (you will need to remove the ETACS-ECU for this, be gentle and maybe call me so I can walk you through this).

If you don't have continuity between any of those points, you likely have a short or broken SWS wire. Finding it will be fun, lots of fun.
The trick with the wiring looms is to do a binary search... connect to one end of the loom, then find the half-way mark and open it up and find the colour wire you're looking for and see if you have continuity at that point. If no continuity, connect to the other end of the loom and see if you have continuity from that side to the same half-way point, if you do, the break is in the first half tested. Keep halving the lengths and you'll find your issue.

For me, I found that the SWS communications line (violet wire) had corroded in a perfectly intact and innocuous section of the wiring loom which runs over the wheel arch. It must have been a manufacturing flaw in the wire insulation which allowed corrosion to occur in this single wire.

I've included some pics for your interest.

I hope your problem is quicker to find than mine but either way, I hope this point can keep a few more Pajero's on the road - mine has served me well and I will be forever sad to have to part with it one-day.

Happy hunting - time for a celebratory home-brew beer!

ps. If you want any pics or more information on troubleshooting or wiring diagrams etc, just give me a shout - always happy to help if I can.

[simonclur]

Service Manual / Workshop Manual for Pajero

If you need manuals - this was my Nirvana:

http://www.mitsubishilinks.com/

I referenced 3-158 [Headlights] and 3-506 [Windscreen washers] electrical circuits.

[disco stu]

well done! Sounds like a massive job for you. Your very thorough post will help others I'm sure, thanks for taking the time to write that up

[harbomike]

ETACS water damage

Heres a cautionary tale ... a couple of weeks ago the electrics on my PB went nuts. It started with the door open warning light on the dash flickering on and off. Then the next day when the car was just sitting in a car park the hazards came on by themslves. When I got in to investigate, I found the blinkers wouldnt work properly, the headlights would not go to high beam and the wipers I think would not work. Also the keyfob function was dead. Had to unlock the door manually. Took it to an auto electricion - he ended up replacing the ETACS unit which is the body control computer that sits behind the little hatch near the drivers knee. It controls all those sorts of functions. He said he found a little bit of water inside the enclosure. I got the dead unit back and could see the computer board was definitely water damaged. The board itself is not protected from water ( ie it has almost no water resistant conformal coating on it) and the enclosure is not sealed. Bill - $1500.
They guy said better find the leak. I've been looking. I stuffed a rag around the box in new ETACS in the hope of intercepting any drips. I did see a drop hanging under the drivers side air vent after a little rain. The bad news though is the new ETACS is now on the blink. I noticed something ewas wrong when I had to stand closer for the keyfob to work. Last night the hazards came back on.
Car is now sitting under a tarp while I think about it.
I checked the flow of water in the draiin behind the firewall - thought that could be blocked with leaves - but it flows freely. Poured water over the obvious spots - but nothing.
Anyway if I find the cause I'll post about it.

[nj swb]

Do you normally have your airconditioner on?

[harbomike]

ETACS water damage

Air con? I guess more often that not. However the last few days - not really. Its a good thought though - condensation drip tube blocked perhaps. Not sure where that is but could not see anything resembling that in the space above the ETACS. I have noticed fairly recently that the air con drain drips water all over the ground so wherever it is I think its still working properly.

[spot01]

If the water is near or under the pillar, most likely a leaking windscreen - has it ever been replaced? It may need to be resealed (even if original) - a windscreen place should be able to check it.


If it was a leaking windscreen, insurance may cover it & the damage.

[harbomike]

ETACS water damage

Windshield has never been replaced and the car up until now has been dry as a bone. The windscreen passed the watering can test but it it may need more to show up the problem. We have thunderstorms due in Sydney this arvo - I might pull off the tarp and watch closely. The electrician suggested a panel beater might have the skills to track it down. Will give this a go.

[Kombuis]

Simonclur - Well done! I am in awe of what you have gone through - and your ability to nail this problem.

My Pajero - 2005 GLX DiD started giving very similar problems to yours so I will be on a similar hunt.

Thanks SO much for documenting every you did to resolve your problem - this will be a huge help.