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Ok, so anyone with a flashing CD light when shifting into 4wd knows the pain this fault causes to the heart and head.
Some will take the car to shop to be fixed, often costing a fair whack of cash.
Well gentlemen you can bring the 4wd system back to life, providing its the transfer case switches which are the problem. Use the ODB port to discover the actual fault.
Earthing pin 1 will cause the CD light to blink. Reading the pattern will tell you the fault. Do this first!!!
I have successfully bought one back from the darkness with a little bit of 12v power.
The idea is to push amps through the switch in order to clear out whatever is stopping the angry pixies from flowing through the switch.
Please see attached drawing.
This process involves removing the transfer case switches from the the gearbox.
To do this jack the rear of the car up as far as you can, drop the rear crossmember as far is it will go and this will bring the box down far enough to get your hands up there with a spanner and under the switches. Size 22mm for those who are interested.
This process sounds simple but you will be doing it blind with both arms on each side of the box. Basicly you will be giving the gearbox a big hug. It is unpleasant but once you have yourself in the right position you can whip them out in about 20 minutes. Don't forget to clean all the dirt and sand away before the switches are removed otherwise it will fall into the box causing drama down the track.
Now that the switch has been removed, follow these steps (I like to do them one at a time, clean them, fit them back in and test for fault. If you nail the right switch there is no need to go further)
Take 1 charged 12v car battery, run a wire from the positive terminal to the switch connector, crocodile clips are good for this.
Now attach a lead to the body of the switch, and the other end to a terminal on the headlamp.
Take a lead from the other terminal of the lamp and return this to the negative terminal on the battery. This completes the circuit.
The lamp acts as a load for the current otherwise the wire itself will act as a resistor and begin to heat up and melt. The lamp also tells you if you have a circuit.
Depending on the switch its default position will either be on or off.
If on is the default, when you attach the leads to it, the headlamp will be energised.
If off is the default position, the lamp will only be energised when the switch is depressed.
Now is also a good time to use switch cleaner and switch lube. This is not WD40.
Repeatedly depressing the switch and liberal use of cleaner will bring most switches back to life, so far 9 out of 10 have come back.
Good luck gentlemen, I hope this works for you.
Some will take the car to shop to be fixed, often costing a fair whack of cash.
Well gentlemen you can bring the 4wd system back to life, providing its the transfer case switches which are the problem. Use the ODB port to discover the actual fault.
Earthing pin 1 will cause the CD light to blink. Reading the pattern will tell you the fault. Do this first!!!
I have successfully bought one back from the darkness with a little bit of 12v power.
The idea is to push amps through the switch in order to clear out whatever is stopping the angry pixies from flowing through the switch.
Please see attached drawing.
This process involves removing the transfer case switches from the the gearbox.
To do this jack the rear of the car up as far as you can, drop the rear crossmember as far is it will go and this will bring the box down far enough to get your hands up there with a spanner and under the switches. Size 22mm for those who are interested.
This process sounds simple but you will be doing it blind with both arms on each side of the box. Basicly you will be giving the gearbox a big hug. It is unpleasant but once you have yourself in the right position you can whip them out in about 20 minutes. Don't forget to clean all the dirt and sand away before the switches are removed otherwise it will fall into the box causing drama down the track.
Now that the switch has been removed, follow these steps (I like to do them one at a time, clean them, fit them back in and test for fault. If you nail the right switch there is no need to go further)
Take 1 charged 12v car battery, run a wire from the positive terminal to the switch connector, crocodile clips are good for this.
Now attach a lead to the body of the switch, and the other end to a terminal on the headlamp.
Take a lead from the other terminal of the lamp and return this to the negative terminal on the battery. This completes the circuit.
The lamp acts as a load for the current otherwise the wire itself will act as a resistor and begin to heat up and melt. The lamp also tells you if you have a circuit.
Depending on the switch its default position will either be on or off.
If on is the default, when you attach the leads to it, the headlamp will be energised.
If off is the default position, the lamp will only be energised when the switch is depressed.
Now is also a good time to use switch cleaner and switch lube. This is not WD40.
Repeatedly depressing the switch and liberal use of cleaner will bring most switches back to life, so far 9 out of 10 have come back.
Good luck gentlemen, I hope this works for you.
I reckon just a bit of cleaner would do the trick myself, no need for blowing out the cobwebs with an electron or two.
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