Dual Battery (Offroad Downunder Tray + Intervolt EBI Pro + SSB AGM)

[aus_andyk]

Glad you were able to sort the pipes out.

Maybe wait until you get a bullbar before worrying about the foglights.

Here's the article from Newtriton that I was looking for with install instruction. Have to be a member to view.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3330

Excluding the cost of the fog lights, it should only cost you around $75 ($70 headlight stalk + $5 for 2 relays from wreckers) and a small amount of tool time to fit.

Good luck!

[SA Chall]

Installation done today and pretty happy with the job. I let the Sparky decide where to put the Isolator and he has bolted it to the body up front which probably wasn't my preferred spot for it but it will do. I had to modify the standard tray again as it was just too tight - still came out ok. Attached are a couple of pics. Specs being the Redarc Isolator and Deep River 85AH AGM. One interesting thing the Auto Elec said to me was that with the way I've done it, he reckons if I ever get a Thumper style battery pack with an AGM ( or just an AGM for that matter ) that I can just plug it into the rear Anderson Socket and it will not only charge but also increase the capacity of anything running off the rear sockets. Does that sound about right? That might come in handy down the track if so!

[amec]

Nice job.

Adding another battery will increase the total "fuel tank" of capacity the batteries have. So if you add another 85amph battery you will have a total capacity of 170amph, real working capacity of around 85amph as you don't want to run a battery down more than half its capacity to help extend its service life. Someone will probably jump in and tell me I'm wrong, but that's my thought on the subject.

But with your 85amph in cool to warm weather you should be able to run a 40-60lt fridge for a weekend without needing to charge and run some led lights, charge a phone/iPad and all that sort of stuff without trouble. My 100amph 6 year old AGM gets down to around 11.5 volts doing all that for a weekend.

[SA Chall]

Cool thanks! Almost finished the mods for now......just been keeping an eye out for a good deal on an awning so that will be my last purchase for a while

[Ent]

Been looking back through the thread as toying with an Intervolt setup with my Thumper 80ah auxiliary battery. Found even the upgraded supplied 6mm wiring is rather underdone so thinking of this setup.

1. Twin core sheathed 6AWG (14mm2) wire from front starter battery to rear mounted Thumper using 50amp Anderson port which is protected by 50 amp circuit breaker. Cable run estimated 5-6 metres.

2. Intervolt mounted in engine bay to link batteries.

3. Unsure if breaker is needed between starter battery and Intervolt, and if so the rating. Help needed on that.

4. Sort of figuring manual override linking switch rather not needed as Thumper 50amp Anderson not powerful enough to make much difference. I have 6 metres of 50mm2 jumper leads I will be fitting 175amp Anderson to so can plug this into the Thumper 175 unfused port and kick main battery over in the hopefully rare occasion needed. Or is it useful to manually link the batteries? A deluxe solution is 0 AWG cable and using 175amp Thumper port but then the issue of what size breaker to use as this port is unprotected?

5. Might be outsmarting myself but idea is the Intervolt can be set for say 12.4 volt so draw down starter battery to 75% capacity before disconnect. I know some are firmly of the view a starter battery is just that and linking it in is just asking for trouble. But I am who I am and drawn to that idea.

6. Installing 50amp external Anderson plug using seperate run from starter battery to rear bumper to act as port to plug in air compressor. This will use the Thumper 50amp relay and breaker and 6mm (4mm2) twin core sheathed wire. Not sure to wire it in on ignition or accessories and also to wire in LVP device. No intention of trailer or caravan at this stage. But things have a habit of changing.

7. No idea on how to handle charging Thumper from mains. I have a 6amp Projecta charger brought with the Thumper that is smart enough to be left plugged in as float charger. The idea was to plug it into bumper mounted Anderson socket and charge both batteries, but then if this external Anderson this is only connected on accessories/ignition so keys in vehicle which defeats to walkway and leave intention.

8. Also Thinking of solar panels around 100-150 watt range so like the idea of the vehicle locked and external port used as can wear solar panels "walking". Naturally panels will need regulator of some sort.

9. If jury decides my idea of drawing on the main battery is "stupid" then Intervolt could be replaced with Matson VSR which is a lot cheaper but still allows external charging.

10. I know that the entire retail world loves flogging DC/DC chargers but to get sensible recharge times a 25amp bare minimum charger is required so say the Intervolt version but not sure if that is worth the cost and mucking around. I assume a maximum 1/3 amp charge so say 25amp would take around three plus hours to bring the Thumper to full charge. Most camping spots transit distance is about two to three hours in Tassie so backs the 25amp need in.

Looking at costs such as wire and mucking around plus future proofing (taking system to new say Pajero Sport with the dreaded variable voltage alternator) not sure what is the best approach.

Was planning something simple but 12 volt needs potentially grew with 1000 watt inverter added. Yeap, scope creep

Anyway thoughts. Just please let's not reignite the DC/DC debate as I consider both VSR and DC/DC valid but only is a VSR works with a vehicle's alternator and the DC/DC charger is suitablely amp rated to do the job in three hours.

[aaron.miller]

I have had mine set at 12.2v for about 18 months now and have run an old Engel fridge for most of that time 24/7. On the coldest mornings it took a couple of sec's for the car to start up but never failed to start. This is what traxcide does and he has been very popular in the land rover circles.
I mounted the intervolt on the firewall, no breaker between batteries and intervolt.
6 b & s is fine to the rear.
I would run twin sheathed 6 b & s to the rear bumper, don't worry about a relay, just a CB.
7. Check that the projecta when powered up defaults to the correct battery chemistry
If u run the intervolt and no relay chances are the two batteries will still be connected when you connect the solar. What time are you planning on finishing driving for the day? Would that give enough time top up batteries of solar?
When you look at the cost of the intervolt plus a decent mppt solar regulator your getting close to a redarc dc dc charger
Many people say you shouldn't mix battery chemistries which would happen with a vsr. That's why I went dual same type and age Optimas
Aaron

[itsamitsi]

My set up is the same but had a brainwave the other day, instead of the 130aH being the main (1000CCA) I'm going to swap the pos leads over (should reach) and use the 80aH (620 CCA) for the main instead and use the bigger battery as the aux.

[cookie9]

seems very complicated!

I have a very simple and effective setup very close to the traxide sc80-fpc kit: http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-d...s/cwk-fpc.html


My AUX and isolator sc80 are in the rear cargo area, distribution board and isolator are behind the trim on drivers side all fed off 6b&s from main battery. have a couple of short stop breakers so all runs are protected. I can use solar panels if needed, tho never really had to.

anderson on the rear bumper runs any accessory I need. Seems excessive running 2 lines to the back.. one of them would have to go underneath or through the chassis

[drivesafe]

Many people say you shouldn't mix battery chemistries which would happen with a vsr. That's why I went dual same type and age Optimas
Aaron

Hi aaron and needing had been worried, this is nothing but an urban myth.

Lots of self proclaimed experts say you can’t mix batteries, but they don’t know what they are talking about.

The “ONLY” difference between the different battery types is their maximum tolerable charge voltage, and these maximum voltages are not a problem when charging with an alternator.

Older type gel batteries had a maximum charge voltage of 14.1v.

Older type Standby AGMs had a maximum charge voltage of 14.4v.

Most new gel and AGMs tolerate a maximum charge voltage of 14.7v

Wet cell batteries have always tolerated a constant maximum voltage of 14.7v and a boost voltage of up to 15.5v.

And Optima Yellowtops and most Bluetops tolerate voltages similar to wet cell batteries.

So arron, while you have two very good batteries there, but if you ever need to replace one of them and can’t get another Optima, any battery will be safe to use.

The only time you need to be careful with different battery types, is when charging with regulated solar, a DC/DC device or a battery charger, where there are selectable battery/voltage modes.

In this type of setup, with mixed battery types connected in parallel, work out which battery has the lowest maximum voltage and set the charge device to that setting, and all the batteries will still be fully charged.

[Ent]

seems very complicated!

I have a very simple and effective setup very close to the traxide sc80-fpc kit: http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-d...s/cwk-fpc.html


My AUX and isolator sc80 are in the rear cargo area, distribution board and isolator are behind the trim on drivers side all fed off 6b&s from main battery. have a couple of short stop breakers so all runs are protected. I can use solar panels if needed, tho never really had to.

anderson on the rear bumper runs any accessory I need. Seems excessive running 2 lines to the back.. one of them would have to go underneath or through the chassis

Largely what I first thought but the weekness is the rear Anderson is not low voltage protected and always live from the auxiliary battery. Now to you not an issue but many people see plug and use it. Things like fridges, inverters come with LVP cutouts but camp lights etc do not. Assuming someone plugs a caravan in you could kill your auxiliary via low voltage. Now for me part of it is using up stuff so would likely not of been so bothered and gone with this setup but maybe LVP on rear.

Ok, spoke to the auto electrician today to get his thoughts. He does not sell stuff but simply does the work and more than happy you supply everything so no barrow to push.

1. VSR versus DC to DC. His view is in the vehicle VSR is the go and despite scaremongering a VSR works just fine and the variable voltage type like the Intervolt Pro that can be tweaked to work well. Caravans especially with batteries at the rear then DC to DC makes the best sense as cable runs are long and heavy cable expensive.

2. Most people he finds skimp on cable so was pleasantly surprised on my desire to use 14mm2 to the rear. Probably a bit overkill as next size down ok in his opinion but go for it.

3. Manual interlink of batteries is normally rarely used and generally fails as someone has drained the auxiliary and then flatten the starter on accessories. His opinion do not bother with an in-cabin switch and save you switch blanks for other things.

So I will be ordering the Intervolt Pro and 14mm2 twin core sheathed cable. One thing toying with is either mounting the Intervolt in the engine bay or in the rear as part of the drawer system. Probably go enginebay.

I have the Thumper system which is basically 50amp breaker and 50 amp rely that is triggered by a sensor wire connected to either iginition or accessories. Brainwave and eBay meant I have ordered a three way switch to squeeze into the jiffy box. Fully of, or sensor wire actives or manually on. Bingo Problem taken care of. This will use the 4mm2 wire which is adequate for charging and running the compressor. Probably go with the sensors wire connected to the accessories.

Now remember my setup is supposed to allow for the drawer system to come out (increasingly unlikely I admit) but if it does the rear bumper mounted Anderson would still work and have a LVP full 100amp Anderson in the rear cargo area.

By killing of the interlinked batteries for starting idea then breaker selection dead easy, 100 or 120 amp in engine bay.

Now next question. I love neat wiring but my battery is growing stuff. Love to see people's solution to this problem. I am lucky that the Elocker shares the power curcuit for the rear diff locker as its current draw was stuff all. So one fuse does all lockers. But still have towbar wire and lightbar with now two additional feeds required. Love to see a neat solution to that. Do like the idea of fuses on the battery terminal used as standard rather than attaching things to the tightening bolt.

Cheers

[cookie9]

I looked at the intervolt but went with the traxide, its bulletproof and proven whereas, at the time, the intervolt was new product.

My setup design is the same, I can remove battery/drawers just a simple unplug 1 anderson plug. I unplug the AUX whenever I'm not needing it which is most of the time not camping! On that small removable panel above cup holder I have 1x anderson (for aux battry), 1 merit, 2 cig, 2 usb. Behind that I can easily access my isolator, fuses and busbars. If I was to do it again I would run cable under the car and up into the cabin through the rear bung on drivers side, maybe even through the chassis. Be alot less mucking around then running under the trims and though the firewall. twin 6 B&S is a thick sucker to get through that small bung and keep it water tight!

traxided have a LVP device you might be able to use on the rear anderson, I didnt worry about it but I see your point. Could be a problem if your stopped for a few days. I run bare minimum of gear, fridge and some LED's on rear door and awning.

As far as keeping things tidy, I ran 6 b&s to short stop and run some accessories from that to keep it away from the terminal. Was thinking of putting a busbar near the fuel filter but havnt got that far yet If I ever get a bullbar with winch + driving lights I will do it then.